BensXR6T

You can have it tuned in 95, but the tuner will have to take more timing out to reduce the risk of detonation. You should be able to get 300 on 95, but will just need a few more mods.

Nice job mate, to keep the factory look, I made MDF spacers under the shelf and mounted them underneath.

Also, was it a full service and flush or just a service? Full service and flush would have cost you a heap in transfluid.

I use Castrol TQ 95. Here is a copy and paste from a post I made a couple of months ago. full post here PITA of a job, but easy enough to do it yourself if you have a trolly jack, chassis stands, socket set, only specialised tool you will need will be a fluid pump to get the oil into the box, can be bought from any good autoparts store for under $30 and plenty of rags to clean up the mess. Here's how: 1. Place car on hard level surface. 2. Chock the back wheels and make sure the handbrake in on (chocks are needed cos we all know what the handbrakes in these things are like) 3. Jack up the front car and place it on stands high enough so you can comfortable slide yourself under. 4. Place a large very absorbent rag on the floor under the trans. 5. On the drivers side of the transmission there is a plug, from memory 14 or 15 mm towards the top, remove it and if fluid doesn't run out there ain't enough in there. 6. Put bottle of trans fluid next to you, put the suction hose from the fluid pump in it and the outlet hose into the gear box and pump fluid until it runs out. 7. Replace plug 8. Lower car back down and start it up in park. 9. with your left foot firmly on the brake, place the car in reverse and load the gearbox up with the throttle, couple of seconds at about 1200rpm should enough. 10. Do the same in drive and repeat 2 or 3 times. 11. Turn the car off and raise it back on the stands and check fluid level again. Repeat the above steps until the fluid runs out of the trans when you remove the plug, shouldn't take much more then 20 or 30 mins to complete. Just be careful as the exhaust will be hot and it runs pretty close to the trans filler. Cheers, Ben

Did they write any details down from your licence? Did you admit guilt or deny that it was you? By the sounds of it, you are in the clear cos it's all hear say and there is no physical evidence... but I'm sure it's put the wind up you, which was their intention and hopefully you keep the shenanigans off the public roads ... especially in residential areas ...

Make sure they filled the box up properly after they serviced it, it's a very time consuming job making sure these boxes are bled properly and most places I have had experience with have the "that'll do" attitude. You will need to get a box from an XR6 Turbo if you are going down the 2nd hand route. the XR8 one has a different bell housing and the NA models have weaker internals. Before ruling out the box, make sure your fluid levels are correct and ask whoever serviced it what fluid they used. These things are VERY fussy about their fluid.

You can skim them, but the shudder will return after the next hard braking manoeuvre you perform. If they aren't that old, take it up with RDA, or shoot HIRO a PM for a decent set of DBA rotors. Cheers, Ben

Yeah, I'm gonna do a custom face for mine one day to match the instrument cluster ... but CBF at the moment

OK, same gauge as mine ... it's a mechanical type and doesn't require any power at all to operate. If you hook the 12V to the ignition, the lights on the gauge will always be on ... if you hook it to the cars lighting circuit, it will only light when the lights are on. You then use the other wire to hook into the dimmer circuit, not necessary, but it's a nice feature to have your gauges dim at the same level as your dash. I had to install a resistor inline with the 12V that I used to connect the illumination cos the LED's that are in the cobalt gauge are brighter then the ford LED's in the dash, can't remember what size I used, but used a potentiometer to get the right brightness level then used a multimeter to measure the resistance I had the pot' set to determine the correct resistor to use. This is best done in a dark garage or at night. Good luck and make sure you use solder for your joins and heat shrink to insulate them to avoid future problems Cheers, Ben

Thought that's a light that would be better off to be off But I don't think there would be a fuse for it ...

Yep, there's a few kits available for the FG now. Factory one is pretty thin only 60 or 70mm ...

Gonna be interesting with a hangover

They've been out in force Matt, and will be again next weekend cos it's another extended one

F6 gets a bigger one then the XR6

What type of gauge is it? Power wire is normally only for illumination, if so connect it to the blue wire with red stripe. Should have three wires, power (for illumination), black and either blue or white for dimming normally

Stock as a rock mate

May as well do the dump at the same time mate, otherwise, you will just be changing it again later on down the track.

15psi through a restrictive intake allows less air then a free flowing system. eg. 2" pipe @ 15psi will flow a hell of a lot less air then a 3" pipe at the same compression. It's not just about the compression of the air, but also how much air can be flowed through. My car @12psi with the HDi cooler would be combusting a lot more air then it would have been when it was at 15psi with the monza cooler cos more air gets compressed before it hits the boost level programmed in. More air = more fuel = bigger bang. Hope that makes sense

Unfortunately, producing any renewable fuel sources is still going to use some form of fossil fuel to some extent, it's kinda unavoidable with the current technology we have. Even hydrogen, methane and natural gas require energy output to produce weather it be oil, coal or both ... perpetual energy doesn't exist to our knowledge ... maybe one day ...

Then it went BANG 10psi = 240rwkw - mods: KN filter, redback twin 2.5" quad tip exhaust, nizpro springs, generic tune. 10psi = 255rwkw - changed: 42lb injectors, hole cut into airbox, custom tune. 15psi = 280rwkw - changed: 4" dump, 100cpi cat, monza cooler 12 psi = 302rwkw - changed: HDi cooler, 8psi actuator Still running standard cross over and hot side piping

The mrs put it in the coon when it was standard, ran ok, but drank it like it was going out of fashion around town, but there's no way it would get anything less then 98 now that it's tuned.

As long as the car that it was used on was returned to stock, your tuner can use it for your car, but you cannot use it until it is unlock by them which erases any tunes stored, so yes, the generic tune will be gone, which is a blessing cos it removes the temptation to use it . Cheers, Ben

E10 on average is about 96 octane, but you also need to pump in more fuel to get the same bang, hence why huge injectors and fuel pumps are needed for E85 tunes. It's also a very dry fuel, so not the best thing for valves and guides.