Benny-4000

Yes, I am on the HPT forum and I am so happy that I can now tune the ZF which I am now getting the hang of.

ah huh, thank you

I have noticed that there is significant differences in ignition timing between a standard 2007 F6 BF and a standard 2009 F6 FG. The load scales are different, but the FG igntion table is quite a bit more advanced in most areas of the table. Given that the FG F6 runs slightly higher boost than the BF F6, I would have thought that if anything the F6 FG would have had less ignition advance than the BF. It looks to me like the the F6 FG assumes a higher octane rating in the borderline knock table (ie 98RON fuel), will pull the timing back through knock retard if 91RON or 95RON is used and will recover the timing back to the borderline knock table if 98RON is used afterwards. Is there is a difference between the F6 BF & F6 FG engines that allows this timing increase while still keeping a conservative timing table? Or is the F6 FG ignition tables just optimised to take better advantage of 98RON than the F6 BF?

I have exactly the same issue with mine. What did you end up buying and did the vibration go away after they were installed?

Has anyone tried a set of these CV and driveshaft assemblies --> http://autowholesale...products_id=221 (the pic is incorrect) The guy I spoke to when I contacted them said they are stronger than standard, they extend to the same length as standard but they can plunge further than standard. He also said that he has sold hundreds of them and has only had one or two back broken.They also sell them on ebay. The seller name is AUTO WHOLESALE AUST

Has anyone tried a set of these CV and driveshaft assemblies --> http://autowholesalesaustralia.com.au/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_135&products_id=221 (the pic is incorrect) The guy I spoke to when I contacted them said they are stronger than standard, they extend to the same length as standard but they can plunge further than standard. He also said that he has sold hundreds of them and has only had one or two back broken.They also sell them on ebay. The seller name is AUTO WHOLESALE AUST

Plazmaman! I have personally had vehicles with both bar and plate and T & Fin. After experiencing the power delivery of the tube and fin I will never go back to the other B&P. I have a Plazmaman T & Fin IC on my car and when Spiro from Autotechnique tuned it, he was surprised as it made more power than his. My car is a BF F6 and it made 395RWKW at 17 PSI with the Plazmanan T & Fin IC, standard turbo (with waste gate modded), 4 inch inlet, standard valve springs and an unopened motor. After a drive, I can pull over and touch my IC and it feels like ice. Plazmaman does have the exact same chinese bar and plate range of intercoolers as PW, but at almost half the price, so either way from Plazmaman you do it properly and inexpensively or you can do it really cheap. I would not recommend anybody else. Period.

Talking from personal experience-I had a bar and plate on my typhoon.I was never happy with the power I got so I did my research and it led me to visit plazmaman in sydney when I was up on a business trip. They showed me the ins and outs of all types of cores they use (there were some 6 different styles from memory - not just b/p and t/f),their knowledge,constant race track appearances(they invited me to a private test and tune at WSID when I was there)and heritage in the racing fraternity blew me away.They are not keyboard braggers. I made the decision to drive to Sydney and get them to install their full kit incl inlet and exhaust. 395rwkws@18 psi on Autotechs dyno(Spiro. My suggestion is to visit them.By the time your finished with them you choice will be made. PS,I was up in sydney last week,pity we couldnt meet up-could have taken you for a spin in mine to show you what they are like.

I wanted one in case of a fuel fire so I put mine here as it is out of the way. fe.bmp

this is because the factory tune is checking that you have the factory cat in place. If you run the factory tune with a bigger cat, the ecu will assume that the cat is out of spec and turn on the check engine light. If you take it to ford or any tuner, they can read the dtc from the engine and confirm that the check engine light is on becasue of a cat error.

3.5" body cat with 200 cells per square inch should be legal a flow heaps for a N/A 6cyl

if you are after throttle response, a dump pipe and cat will make the biggest difference.

For a N/A I would go a xforce or redback catback system to start with

I believe the Egas engine also has the inconel valve seats like the turbo engine

I reckon you would get less lag if you took the bov off and blocked up the whole where it was.

I believe there is a minor differance and the bf one flows marginally better although no where near as well as either of the current xforce options

try a softer actuator spring.

I have toyo prox 4 on my 350rwkw typhoon and sure 1st gear you have to be gentle, but once you are in second it doesnt spin. They do need at least 40psi in them though otherwise they spin up like crazy. If I have only 38psi in them, the traction is about as good as if it is raining. LOL.

My BF Typhoon has different spacing on the rears to the fronts

How much did the teins set you back?

A cast big mouth piece to grab grab the exhaust from both the center of the turbine wheel and the wastegate port, then a flange, then a 3" pipe about a foot long before the cat

I was told by a exhaust workshop that if you get canaried fro a suspected punched cat in Australia, there is only two ways that they check it. 1. They disconnect the exhaust from the engine or turbo and poke something down it to check that there is something installed in it. 2. With the car running, they measure the temperature of the exhaust before and after the cat and look for a difference. If there is no difference in temp, they assume that there is no brick inside the cat. A 100cpsi cat is still definately a restriction and therefore would still cause a drop in temperature across the cat

Yep, Do the pump. the intank walbro unit would be enough and I got mine for $140 from ebay with a new internal fuel tank connection hose.

I agree 15k between oil changes is a joke. I run the repco semi synthetic (manufactured by mobil) and change it every 5000kms. Runs perfect and never ever does the brief tap tap tap sound when stone cold like the "famed" mobil 1 fully synthetic used to. Way cheaper too.

Just wondering. Has anyone got a fix for the play in the std sedan diff? My diff bushes are all new but there is still excessive play in the diff. I got quoted about a grand by intune to remove it and adjust it to tighter tolerances than factory to remove some of the backlash.