Garrettba03

sorry to hear that dude...at least youll have better pipes with the new ones. Careful with the turbo if it has a boost leak itll prolly try and keep boosting to try and make whatever boost its tuned at ie: Itll keep overboosting trying to make 10 pounds the turbo might actually be boosting/spinning at god knows what. Someone else may be able to give some advice here im just guessing - id be weary if it were me though and drive off boost till its fixed

piece of hose and ear/face is the way to check air leaks...but revving on idle I dunno if ud get enuff pressure to find it...maybe? I know when I connected my new intercooler and was blowing it out revving on idle prior to connecting it to the throttlebody there was lots of air blowing at least 2m away to make a dangling doily on the fridge go absolutely nuts...so maybe?

I had exact same noise on mine about 2 weeks ago. thought it real weird cause felt more responsive down low but less power boosting with revs. rubber on throttle body connecting crossover slipped off ever so slightly. Really loud turbo spooling sound and pssshhh was actually big boost leak. You might be right Maybe it was only even the end of a pipe popping out...had this on my ba so many times ive lost count... I have to put it back in and tighten when ive been working on something on the car.

lukas pads a little dusty...that's an understatement lol 2 weeks is all it takes for my wheels to go almost black

Agreed, Mine needed lower bushes and upper bushes. Problem fixed the tyres now wearing evenly but mines a ba

Who knows. Ive read heaps of articles saying its negligable loss of efficiency, some said it was not measurable....but alas no proof

Agreed, the stock pipes are mainly 2 inch inside. I believe at least 2.5/2.75 is needed to help airspeed and drag for decent power...pretty much gotta change everything no stock look, new front pipe for boost sensor etc etc. Dont see the point

I think the trick with the paint is a thin layer, especially on the core! I tried to spray the core just ontop and not through the fins as little as I possibly could (you dont wanna coat the fins that radiate the heat as air goes through the core and fins transfer the heat to air) it actually wasnt hard to do either light coats pretty much achieved that. Was told if its not heat resistant paint, it will more than likely bubble and stuff that I didnt want to do the painting over again.

Was it a typo and do you mean TRW pads? I had exact same problem really noticable coming off freeway off ramps 80/90 kays or so, Motul rbf fluid flush helped...new rear rotors and rear TRW pads fixed the problem. I think its something else. The pads do take aages to bed in though and didnt get good bite till over 500km. Now it feels like the rear is biting harder than the front but dunno what I want to do with the fronts yet so havent changed the discs and pads. Did you change just the front pads/rotors or rears, or both last time?

Think the maloo guy put those wheels on so when he gets beaten by all our xr6 turbos...and he pulls over...he thinks he can still look cool. Hideous!

As above, these cars are not cheap to own. If you skimp with these cars ull loose and something will bang! I bought my car changed sparks, coils, fuel filter, fuel pump, front bushes, swaybar bushes, tentioner, air filter, oil turbo supply line filter...and they were all f#$%ed. Im sure theres more but I forgot. Look after it and u should be right

You should have no problem as long as u can get enuff boost to make that power. On the last dyno my car lost 40kw, after investigation tuner found my 3 month old metal cat was already blocked... showing 6psi backpressure in the exhaust. Fixed the cat now exhaust backpressure dropped to only 2 psi at 260kw at wheels. He recons 2psi is stuff all. Maybe cat back to make a bit more power but I dunno how much youll gain for low 300s for the cost if its worth it. Up to u man or u could spent the cash elsewhere. The cat is the biggest evil in the exhaust and youve fixed that already.

F6 cooler should actually flow better, its higher and has more bars across, meaning more air passages and less resistance against charge air flow, reducing air speed. Unless theres something internally different or its skinnier

Heat resistant paint up to I think it was 250 degrees engine enamel is $16 a can at Autobarn. I sprayed my cooler with that stuff.

Havent had experience with the pw or pwr but a mate of mine got the plazmaman kit 800hp, injectors, and cat on an fg and maxed out the turbo no problem on the dyno straight away. Fit is good and he said it was easy to install. Looks mint too