Garrettba03

sorry to hear that dude...at least youll have better pipes with the new ones. Careful with the turbo if it has a boost leak itll prolly try and keep boosting to try and make whatever boost its tuned at ie: Itll keep overboosting trying to make 10 pounds the turbo might actually be boosting/spinning at god knows what. Someone else may be able to give some advice here im just guessing - id be weary if it were me though and drive off boost till its fixed

piece of hose and ear/face is the way to check air leaks...but revving on idle I dunno if ud get enuff pressure to find it...maybe? I know when I connected my new intercooler and was blowing it out revving on idle prior to connecting it to the throttlebody there was lots of air blowing at least 2m away to make a dangling doily on the fridge go absolutely nuts...so maybe?

I had exact same noise on mine about 2 weeks ago. thought it real weird cause felt more responsive down low but less power boosting with revs. rubber on throttle body connecting crossover slipped off ever so slightly. Really loud turbo spooling sound and pssshhh was actually big boost leak. You might be right Maybe it was only even the end of a pipe popping out...had this on my ba so many times ive lost count... I have to put it back in and tighten when ive been working on something on the car.

lukas pads a little dusty...that's an understatement lol 2 weeks is all it takes for my wheels to go almost black

Agreed, Mine needed lower bushes and upper bushes. Problem fixed the tyres now wearing evenly but mines a ba

Who knows. Ive read heaps of articles saying its negligable loss of efficiency, some said it was not measurable....but alas no proof

Agreed, the stock pipes are mainly 2 inch inside. I believe at least 2.5/2.75 is needed to help airspeed and drag for decent power...pretty much gotta change everything no stock look, new front pipe for boost sensor etc etc. Dont see the point

I think the trick with the paint is a thin layer, especially on the core! I tried to spray the core just ontop and not through the fins as little as I possibly could (you dont wanna coat the fins that radiate the heat as air goes through the core and fins transfer the heat to air) it actually wasnt hard to do either light coats pretty much achieved that. Was told if its not heat resistant paint, it will more than likely bubble and stuff that I didnt want to do the painting over again.

Was it a typo and do you mean TRW pads? I had exact same problem really noticable coming off freeway off ramps 80/90 kays or so, Motul rbf fluid flush helped...new rear rotors and rear TRW pads fixed the problem. I think its something else. The pads do take aages to bed in though and didnt get good bite till over 500km. Now it feels like the rear is biting harder than the front but dunno what I want to do with the fronts yet so havent changed the discs and pads. Did you change just the front pads/rotors or rears, or both last time?

Think the maloo guy put those wheels on so when he gets beaten by all our xr6 turbos...and he pulls over...he thinks he can still look cool. Hideous!

As above, these cars are not cheap to own. If you skimp with these cars ull loose and something will bang! I bought my car changed sparks, coils, fuel filter, fuel pump, front bushes, swaybar bushes, tentioner, air filter, oil turbo supply line filter...and they were all f#$%ed. Im sure theres more but I forgot. Look after it and u should be right

You should have no problem as long as u can get enuff boost to make that power. On the last dyno my car lost 40kw, after investigation tuner found my 3 month old metal cat was already blocked... showing 6psi backpressure in the exhaust. Fixed the cat now exhaust backpressure dropped to only 2 psi at 260kw at wheels. He recons 2psi is stuff all. Maybe cat back to make a bit more power but I dunno how much youll gain for low 300s for the cost if its worth it. Up to u man or u could spent the cash elsewhere. The cat is the biggest evil in the exhaust and youve fixed that already.

F6 cooler should actually flow better, its higher and has more bars across, meaning more air passages and less resistance against charge air flow, reducing air speed. Unless theres something internally different or its skinnier

Heat resistant paint up to I think it was 250 degrees engine enamel is $16 a can at Autobarn. I sprayed my cooler with that stuff.

Havent had experience with the pw or pwr but a mate of mine got the plazmaman kit 800hp, injectors, and cat on an fg and maxed out the turbo no problem on the dyno straight away. Fit is good and he said it was easy to install. Looks mint too

First tried these tyres when I chucked them on an 850kg front wheel drive turbo that I used to have a couple of years ago. It had 145kw at wheels with stiff suspension (koni yellows, swaybars, panhard rod, springs, urethane bushes, anti lift) and massive grip issues. The TT's Basically fixed my grip issues. What poos me is my falcon is still slower accelerating than that car (although the falcon would munch it on launch)....but not for long! Dyno coming soon

Weaponxr im gonna check that out for pipes behind if I can get the pipes around the radiator with the width of the cooler I just might run em that way. Thanks heaps!

Cheers. It can only go up another 10mm or so im gonna lift it up as much as I can after its painted and back on as the cooler is so wide the silicon on the endtank outlet will hit the chassis rails. The screw bottom mount is the lowest part of the cooler and its 115 mm off the ground

haha lol. Tell me about it! Gotta paint it all To be honest I really dont know what brand it is

Naah the cars stock height wont be lowered im prolly only going to put bilsteins in it. Its hard to see but the bars are a little smaller than the external fins. 300 high 16 bars across I think that's about average from what ive seen. The end tanks are very small I know but cause of the shape and location and short height should have a reasonable air distribution across the cooler top to bottom. Weill have to wait till it goes on the dyno see how effective it is. But its got alot of ambient air flow going through the core either way. Big difference already, better throttle response, less lag, more pull especially mid rpm coming outta corners nailing it

Yeah I thought about all of those but the volume and size of this one is much bigger than all of those coolers. The core of the monza has very little turbulators, as soon as I find a good second hand deal I can afford...it was already sold. I was waiting for aages and really didnt want to keep waiting for ever, and I like getting my hands a lil dirty :-) I can now justify changing the valvesprings cause of what little I spent here. My last car swallowed $15k mods and dont wanna go there again. Cheers for that I usually always have a crack...occasionally I stuff things lol...but its rarely!

Hehe yeah I thought about that especially the length of the piping and diameter of stock pipes only 2 inch! but didnt want to change things too much, ive had so many modified turbos over the years and im over cleaning k&n filters, pods, cant just go to ford/peps/autobarn and buy a part cause everythings custom. On the cold side ive gone from intercooler 3inch, silicone reducer 2.75 to 2.75 pipe, then 2.75 to 2.5 reducer and 2.5 pipe, then 2.5 to 2 inch reducer to factory under light pipe to gradually bring the pipe diameter down.

cost intercooler $175 (dunno how I got it so cheap) cost of bits and pieces $250 Total $425

Lol I know tell me about it...that screwed me had me scratching my head for a bit. Always wanted to keep the underbonnet stock and decided if it means more pipes...ohh well what do you do Did not want to loose the snorkel so ended up with....spaghetti!