6BOOST

Congrats on finally getting the car and tune sorted out mate. Clinton must have been super conservative on the caltex tune as there isn't a big difference between the 2 in power production;) I didn't see if you had 1000 or 2000cc injectors, but 2x 044's will support over 800rwkw on E85, Spiro's car only ever had 2 in it and never started leaning out even t 1100rwhp (keeping in mind the differences between auto and manual). I would also advise to save your money and forget the C16 or Roo16, the E85 will make more power in the ford engine as it stops making power from timing long before the knock threshold of the E85, so C or Roo16 will make no difference with timing taken, and the alcohol fuel will make more power in this instance. Not always true for every engine, but it is with the ford 6. I think Ben's car made less power by a significant margin on Roo16 didn't it Ben? Congrats on the weapon, we are coming for you with Rolands new GT45 setup though;)

Hmmm, you might want to check the rest of your setup, as per my previous post, we have been 460rwkw on the STOCK exhaust and 612rwkw on a 3.5" exhaust with twin mufflers and hollow cat. If you can't make 500rwkw with a 3.5" exhaust, the exhaust isn't the restriction. We have been over 800rwkw with a 4" exhaust with 3 mufflers. 6BOOST

For 1000rwhp you will need a custom made 4" exhaust, a process west stage 3 cooler and piping, and minimum 1000cc injectors, which I doubt the bosch ones are, you will need Xspurt or ID1000's. Unless you want to make the power on $15 a litre race fuel, then you'll need 2000cc injectors to run E85, the 1000's are good for about 900rwhp before you start running out of injector, or at least without running 80-90psi of base pressure which even then will only be a bandaid and barely cover your fuel requirements. If 1000rwhp is still the plan, I'd suggest getting some better advise before you keep buying components that are completely incapable of the task you are undertaking. The HDI cooler, 3.5" exhaust and injectors you have are not up to the task, and I would suggest an FG or Hypertune intake manifold better cylinder distribution at the power you want to make. Having built probably more of the countries biggest hp twin cam falcon combinations than anyone else atm, we have run to the limits of most combinations and components and can tell you that 1000rwhp IS easy, WITH the right components. There are NO shortcuts to this power level. 6BOOST

The stock factory exhaust on my BF Tornado with factory turbo has made 460rwkw on E85, yes you will easily make 500rwkw with a 4" exhaust. Ben has made over 600rwkw thru the 3.5" exhaust on his FG. 6BOOST

What plenum, cooler, injectors and exhaust did you buy? 6BOOST

There is nothing the car yard could have done, its not like they are going to go pulling the turbo feed line off every T that comes in, that's just the luck of the draw. I would make 100% sure they will cover all of the cost of the repairs, because generally speaking insurance jobs get charged thru the nose and you could probnably arrange it cheaper yourself if they are only gonna cover $500. Make sure you put a braided oil feed line and external filter on the new one, as the factory one will be blocked having caused the problem. Many a people have come unstuck replacing the turbo only to have it fail within 2000 k's again because of the blocked factory filter. 6BOOST

It sounds to me like you have been fed a load of bullsh*t. For a start, why do you have a 4" exhaust and stock cooler and intake piping? My BF Tornado makes 370rwkw on 98 thru the factory exhaust and 460rwkw on E85, it has gone 11.1@129mph with the auto slipping its arse off and a 1.8 60ft, so its making the power. I'd personally start by punching whoever told you you need an exhaust before a cooler in the face and ask them to sway them for you. Secondly, over 300rwkw on the stock cooler and you think the power is low? It is making the same power on 17psi that it used to make boost spiking to 13psi as the intercooler is so crap that intake temps are thru the roof, and the tuner has had to pull so much timing out of the motor that running more boost makes no more power, the lack of timing is taking out any extra power the boost is making. I would HIGHLY recommend getting a process west stage 2 cooler and under battery intake setup. I presume its a F6 so you don't need the bigger turbo, so with the cooler and intake setup, I would estimate 360-370rwkw with ease. 6BOOST

Na, the only 3 colours I like are Ego, white and red, but I'd never own a red car with fading etc. Red seems pretty rare as well. 6BOOST

Its actually cheaper to buy a replacement, swap the cover and rear housing over and sell it for $500 with noisy bearings, the housings are easily worth that money and then your only paying $1000 to $1200 for a brand new core, not a reco. Alternatively you can buy a GT35 less turbine housing for $1500. Regards................................6BOOST

Its a shame these are such a rip off, as I was really hoping to make one my new pride and joy before the end of june, but for the money they want I can buy an F6 and spend the extra making 600rwkw. I would have thought they'd bring out an xr8 the same spec as before with the blown 8, and then the fpv versions with leather, dual climate, kit, dark argents and brembo's. I guess they have to leave something to make a difference between the GT and the GS, I think they rushed the release personally and should have waited till they had the intercooled blown V8 for the GT done, then they could have added the upspec bits to the GS and still had a reason for teh increase in GT price tag. 6BOOST

Well mate, if its any indication of how much I like your car, I will be buying a white FG F6 ute before end of financial year and building it to a carbon copy of yours

Thanks John. By looking at his posts, and the next one I found being asking for correction factor of Tray's ute, I presume he is some sort of gun tuner who disbelieves every power figure given for the big cars. At the end of the day the dyno is, always has been and always will be a tuning tool and the racetrack is the best dyno there is, unfortunately these big heavy cars are hard to give a true indication unless turned to full race trim, as trying to propel 4000+lbs with 1000+ flywheel hp is never going to be easy. Our dyno reads an honest figure in comparison to any other, maybe 2-3% high to some low dyno's like Elites, which has always been very conservative, and lower by 3-5% of some of the higher reading dyno's, I'd like to think its right in the middle=) Anyway, back on topic, now that you've had a chance to drive it, how is the car Ben? 6BOOST

Why do you need/want to know? Our correction factors are irrelevent to compare to any other dyno in the country, they are always in the 1.05-1.08 range due to our elevation in Toowoomba. 6BOOST

Most aftermarket cats are a POS, I have seen a GT35 SR20 silvia with a brand new 2 hour old exhaust pick up over 100rwhp at 20psi by punching out the "new" cat. We have seen 20-60hp gains on everything from wrx's to evo's to xr6's with similar mods, all in the name of testing of coarse, the cars were then fitted with a new cat of coarse. If the cat is new that would be one of the first places I'd be looking. Or a sticky boost control solenoid or something, it could be a million things. 6BOOST

Well my ute uses a 12psi actuator as it has the factory exhaust in place, the extra back pressure needing a higher actuator pressure to keep stable boost up to 20+psi. On Johns car we used an 8psi actuator and found it works very similar to my car but his has a bigger 3.5" exhaust. He thinks his mufflers are a bit restrictive, which may be why we are having no overboosting issues with the factory flapper, however I can't comment on boost control with a 4" big open exhaust, however I can't see it adding 10psi+ over a 3.5" system with a "hiflow;-)" cat, and Johns car held 8-10psi with no probs. 6BOOST