I see the value in doing a hectic build now, but if you never want more than 600whp there isn't much point doing it.

 

I dunno how easy it will be for you to learn to build an engine, there is a farken lot to learn and a lot of expensive tools needed to do it properly. Maybe not for you in this case?! I dunno.

 

It might be better to keep it all local and when the time comes you know it'll be ok to turn up...mebbe ask your transmission, tailshaft and axles what they think lol

I find it funny people ask what we think but already have it in there head what they are doing 😕 

@bossmang buddy are you okay? You made the worst suggestion so far and it’s something I’ve literally already done. Cheer up

don't worry about him, he's just salty his missus made him return his car to stock

@Tom Tucker hey mate yeah definitely chasing more than 600 down the track that’s why a big build is sort of option #1.

I have most tools required but a good mate is in the process of opening a speed shop and is keen to build it with me, he has a workshop worth.. so yeah I really think your suggestion of staying local is a good one! Cheers

 

@k31th oh I see, 😓 poor fella 😆 well I don’t have a missus and can do whatever I want LOL 

The thing about building a barra is that in terms of cost, there isn't a huge difference between building something capable of 600hp vs 1000hp. And to be honest, if you choose parts wisely, 1200hp isn't too much of a stretch.

40 minutes ago, Don Kedick said:

@bossmang buddy are you okay? You made the worst suggestion so far and it’s something I’ve literally already done. Cheer up

 

dont be salty you bought a pos

Alright blokes, and bossmang.

I took on your advice to stay local and re evaluate my goals, we going 800hp as a start. I am taking the engine out and into a local engine builder All Torque, as recommended by Goleby’s. I am having everything done (why not 🤷🏼‍♂️), going to keep the stock crank and fitting the following parts tell me if there is anything that raises your eyebrows or anything you think I am missing or anything that will not work, mainly wondering about the piston and rod combo and turbo sizing/wastegate/mounting:

 

Engine:

ACL Race Bearings big end, main, 360 thru

Spool I beam 

CP forged +.5mm

Matsumoto MLS Gaskets

Atomic Street Girdle + ARP Mains

ARP Head Studs (12mm)

Kelford Cams + PAC valve springs

Atomic Oversized Valves 

Atomic Oil Pump Gears, Spring & Plate

Atomic Timing Chain Kit

Ross Race Balancer 

 

Bolt Ons;

Pulsar GTX 3584? Internal or why external? Is low mount okay? Opinions/advice please!

3.5” ss Xforce

Antz stg 2 piping & intake relocate 

1650cc, FPR1200, 460hi in tank, 2x380lph surge tank 

Autotecnica Big Cooler - I’ve heard they are good? Already fitted and don’t want to spend any more $$ 

Race Catch Can 

Any advice would be great as it’s my first big build. And advice on tailshafts and gearbox input shafts etc is what I need next, how do I easily beef the drivetrain up for the power increase?
 

And I can keep you updated on the progress if anyone is interested. 
 

Cheers Kents 

-Callum

If you only want 800whp then use stock cams, and stock valves. I'm not 100% sure where they both max out but I've had stock valves to 950+awhp with aftermarket cams.

 

If you think you'll want more than 800whp get an Athena racing head gasket cos MLS will leak.

 

I'd suggest at a minimum an atomic steel body oil pump if you intend to rev it past 6500rpm regularly. Peace of mind etc.

 

Don't go oversize on the pistons if you don't have to. Thicker bores are better. I've had a stock block measure up perfectly and others definitely need a rebore.

 

H beam rods are lighter and more suited to a sub 1000whp build. Only get spool I beams if going over 1200whp.

 

You'll need a better flex plate if auto, (on mobile cbf going back to check) as always, keeping the rotating assembly as light as possible is better. Choose something that ticks your boxes. Hurhurhur.

 

Low mount stock manifold will be done by 500ish kw. Pulsar internal gate 3584rs will make that at about 24psi. If you want the most out of it, change to external gate aftermarket manifold.

 

If you want more than 800hp/600kw you'll need a much larger turbo.

 

Anyhow there's a few opinions of mine. 

Imo, if you're going through the trouble of getting a built motor, you may as well also go with far superior boost control on the turbo with the use of an external wg.

External wg doesn't always mean a screamer pipe, you can have it plumbed back to the exhaust for a more quiet setup.

 

I can't remember where I found the post, if it was here or on a FB page (leaning more towards FB) but a workshop took apart an autotechnica IC because it was leaking. Inside of it looked like utter sh*te. Very poor quality and poorly put together.

A lot of people online are saying "its the best IC for under $500".

Again, if you're spending the money on a built motor, don't cheap out on supporting mods. Antz is probably the "cheapest" brand I'd recommend for IC and piping but you'd be far better off in the long run getting a Process west, plazmaman, or Jonny Tig IC.

Personally, I think the best bang for buck IC you can buy is Process West Stage 1 intercooler. Yes its expensive but its a tried and test ic by many shops and best of all is easy to install.

If you want looks though, go plazzy for that sick as ballz logo at the bottom. Absolute c*nt to install, but I did do a write-up on the install of one I did on my car - link here.

 

 

As for the pulsar 3584 turbo setup, it is a mad turbo. My brother has one on his car which also has a built motor (by Monsta Torque). Pretty much all the same as your setup minus the cams, he has stock cams. He also has a factory manifold. 

Turbo in this setup is very laggy. But this is because he has a completely stock auto (zf6). The tune makes the boost come on slow so it doesn't stress out the trans. So you'll be in the same boat as him if your box is also stock. You'll have a power plant that is capable of some serious power on the streets but you won't be able to use it to its full potential without a built box. This is all talking about autos though, no idea what the manual boxes can handle.

Also, while I'm talking about trannys and sh*t, he has a factory flex plate but has some weld on thingy to stop the bolts come loose. that's about as sciency as I can explain it because I can't remember what the product is called lol.

 

In all, the setup you've listed, assuming a stock auto, will be happy around 600hp but capable of way more. This is based purely on what I've seen in the build and tuning process of my brothers car and is in no way a tried and true statement.

 

And yes, plsssss keep us updated! Always awesome to see builds come together on the forums

Good luck with it all!