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Don Kedick

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  1. Has anyone used an Antz Stage 2 Intercooler? Seems to be pretty good results reported and it is cheap..
  2. Good Idea, I might get the Atomic head studs instead as they come with oversized washers. Picking up all of my engine parts from Goleby’s tomorrow hopefully so good timing! I just assumed the ARP studs came with oversized washers lucky you said something! Cheers @Slowxr6t
  3. This is why you’re not one of the blokes and your wife hates you.
  4. I got some pricing for a ZF6r80/6HP26 hybrid and there is a ready made converter to suit by RoadBlaster. I don’t want a laggy tune due to a weak gearbox as mentioned. 6R80 conversion with high performance clutching =$2800 + converter $2100 - what stall RPM do you guys recommend? 2500-3200 Quotes were as high as 8k total other places. Yet to chase up any pricing for a driveshaft but that would go next, I will find someone local to do a stronger steel shaft and go for a flash carbon job with titanium bolts down the road. Would $1500 get me a new beefier driveshaft? Unsprung weight costs so much more than HP! I am going to do the diff work down the track as my budget is blown out at this point. I’ve seen some people on the forums that like the stock diff over a trutrac or similar. Will definitely do the double bush upgrade soon! But do you think I should do some upgraded CV joints now? Torquline Garage do an 800HP set for $699. With these additions would I be able to go for a more aggressive tune in the mid range and less lag? The diff is then the last thing to do, how much power are people running through the stock LSD? And what problems could I expect? Thank-you for answering all of my questions, I really appreciate you guyses time.🤙🏼
  5. Yes forgot to mention I am getting the Atomic Flex Plate. Stock ZF six speed - would upgraded input shaft and tailshafts suffice for a while? I have been looking in to getting the box built in the Toowoomba or Brisbane Region if anyone has suggestions.. If I can avoid doing cams and valves now I think I will. @biddie_fiddler thankyou for the cooler and pipe advice, I will look into better quality, budget is the constraint now, was going to slowly put one better bolt ons..
  6. Alright blokes, and bossmang. I took on your advice to stay local and re evaluate my goals, we going 800hp as a start. I am taking the engine out and into a local engine builder All Torque, as recommended by Goleby’s. I am having everything done (why not 🤷🏼‍♂️), going to keep the stock crank and fitting the following parts tell me if there is anything that raises your eyebrows or anything you think I am missing or anything that will not work, mainly wondering about the piston and rod combo and turbo sizing/wastegate/mounting: Engine: ACL Race Bearings big end, main, 360 thru Spool I beam CP forged +.5mm Matsumoto MLS Gaskets Atomic Street Girdle + ARP Mains ARP Head Studs (12mm) Kelford Cams + PAC valve springs Atomic Oversized Valves Atomic Oil Pump Gears, Spring & Plate Atomic Timing Chain Kit Ross Race Balancer Bolt Ons; Pulsar GTX 3584? Internal or why external? Is low mount okay? Opinions/advice please! 3.5” ss Xforce Antz stg 2 piping & intake relocate 1650cc, FPR1200, 460hi in tank, 2x380lph surge tank Autotecnica Big Cooler - I’ve heard they are good? Already fitted and don’t want to spend any more $$ Race Catch Can Any advice would be great as it’s my first big build. And advice on tailshafts and gearbox input shafts etc is what I need next, how do I easily beef the drivetrain up for the power increase? And I can keep you updated on the progress if anyone is interested. Cheers Kents -Callum
  7. @Tom Tucker hey mate yeah definitely chasing more than 600 down the track that’s why a big build is sort of option #1. I have most tools required but a good mate is in the process of opening a speed shop and is keen to build it with me, he has a workshop worth.. so yeah I really think your suggestion of staying local is a good one! Cheers @k31th oh I see, 😓 poor fella 😆 well I don’t have a missus and can do whatever I want LOL
  8. @bossmang buddy are you okay? You made the worst suggestion so far and it’s something I’ve literally already done. Cheer up
  9. @Puffwagon yeah 600hp for now I just don’t want to do the internals again further down the track. I mean I would be happy with more power but I’m just trying to be sensible. And I’m kinda going for overkill so idk.. My thinking is if I’m going to fix this compression problem I might as well do a full rebuild as that’s pretty much the hard part, looking at about 5k (which is the same as an atomic phase 2 rebuilt kit) for everything plus machining yadayada it starts getting closer to just paying someone to do it or buying an engine (which seems so easy). I dunno man any advice helps @Tom Tucker yeah maybe your right in the Atomic vs Local Rebuild when it comes to support. Atomic does come with free cam upgrade though 🥲. Although no one really comes more highly rated than TBRE. Man I don’t know, I could just fix it for around $1500..
  10. Sixman - When I spoke to them they said they use a couple of engine builders but I only got as far as TBRE and another Toowoomba based engine builder. Tom Tucker - I am just going to use FP for dyno tuning once I have the car built and the Atomic long motor comes with a 12 month warranty which is voided if I go to the track which I won’t for at least 12 months. Atomic got back to me and said all the new engines are nice and quiet and the engine should be good for what I am doing so they are some good guarantees from my perspective. Also for the discussion I would note Tony at TBRE was awesome to talk to and for a rebuild like I was doing he would have been able to fit it in and the turn around wasn’t going to be long at all just a month or so.
  11. Bossmang I went to their recommended engine builder and a rebuild is same price as the atomic engine. I can sell mine and recoup some costs. Forced will definitely be tuning it once done though. Cheers
  12. Also what do you think the value of my old engine with turbo, cooler and factory piping is? Cheers!
  13. Hey guys, I’ve bought a basically stock FG turbo, 6 speed auto, and it has low compression in cylinder one and a rough idle. Leak down test indicates rings are shot. Anyway I have been going through various rebuild options and they are all either expensive or half a job or I do the rebuild myself as my first try. Anyway, I am looking at buying a long motor (street torquer 550) straight from ATOMIC which costs about 14k, which was roughly the same as a rebuild from TBRE which is local here in Toowoomba where I live. Does anyone have one of these engines? I can’t find much info and no reviews anywhere. I’ve read on another post they can be noisy, forged Pistons etc. but some people say the timing chain is also noisy but the Pistons are so loud people have sold their new atomic engine.. so any advice would be great. I will be using the car as a daily to and from work and on lunch breaks for short runs etc. also a few runs at the track but mostly street use. Intentions of adding Pulsar Gtx3582 or 4(opinions please), 50mm gate, antz stage 2 piping and turbo side intake, it already has autotecnica big cooler, 3.5 or 4” turbo back exhaust, 1000cc injectors, walbro 460, sx-f fuel reg, oil cooler and trans cooler both thermosatted, has a new Fenix rad and atomic thermostat I put on, I am going to do 4x DBA T3 rotors and NS400 pads plus Toyo Proxes T1 Tyres. Total spend including car is about 35k plus tune at FORCED PERFORMANCE (maybe $1500), would this be considered good value for money? And I’m hoping for a reliable 500-600hp what do you think? Thanks Heaps Fellas! -Callum
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