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  • Dropping a turd
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 11m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Turbine housing bolt holes are cracked. 

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 8m 5d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

The chra and comp cover are as per the picture there. Mine is a hair off as I did a bunch of turbo disassembling and reassembling, and although I marked it, the comp cover did end up pointing toward the engine a little bit more. Chra is lined up though obviously.

 

I think it'll max out the fuel system with no exhaust but I guess we'll see.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 8m 5d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

Now that I think about it, I haven't tightened the actuator up at all so it'll probably stop around 26psi give or take.

  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 4m 3d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide
Posted

Oh ok looks like Typical CHRA rotation for oil/water both in and out 

 

wonder why I thought it was rotated differently on the TT’s 🤔

 

Give that another actuator a full 3/4- full hole preload and go for gold Nath 

 

525 can supply around 460-470 on its own with 14v and 12.0 AFR 

  • Like 2
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 1m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
Posted
Turbine housing bolt holes are cracked. 
You reckon? I can't actually remember when I first saw it loose but I'll say 3-5yrs ago. I've never been able to get it properly tight as there no access and from memory I used a modified pressed steel tool from a router or some other chinesium power tool to tighten it up. Needs loctite...
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 1m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
Posted

Water line from the thermostat area goes to the exhaust manifold side, oil on top with the white paint mark.

You can see the choice loose bolt on the left next to the banjo fitting...

What way does the water go into the turbo? From the thermostat area or the back of the water pump?

 

I'm questioning whether I should change the IC piping to alloy instead of stainless as I think it's retaining the heat in the pipe? Intake temps seem to point to that or because of my MAP sensor location it's reading the SS's radiant heat???

It would be an expensive test just to see though as I cannot weld alloy...

 

 

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  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 8m 5d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

I never thought about which way it goes but ya would think it'd get pressure from the water pump.

 

What intercooler do you have? What are your iat's?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 23y 1m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
Posted

Previous owner said it's an original PW stage 2 but unsure, I trust him on that though. It's fairly big but haven't got the front bumper off yet to measure it. Very similar to the Rapid cooler size (thicker I think?).
IAT's are generally 10-12°C above ambient and ambient temp was 29 when I last drove the car. It's generally after I've driven to the shops (coolant only gets to 70 at most on the trips from home) and parked the car for 20+mins then start it back up. IAT's are at 45°C from then and unless I give it a squirt on the trip home (60km zone) it'll stay at 42-44 regardless. This seems to be the case even when the ambient temp is colder around 24... Thermostat is an 80 or 82 and fans come on at 82 and off at 80, trans stays at or below 80 with the stock heat exchanger still.
I've built an air filter box out of corflute atm before I settle on design and thought it was because the SS hot side goes through this area that it was holding the heat but I wrapped it in "quality" silver insulation air bubblewrap from hello fresh (food delivery mob) and it made no difference which I'm glad I didn't exhaust wrap it first now!
Summer heat will come soon as the temp is all over the place atm so if it goes to 60°C like it was without the airbox then I'll have to keep testing.

  • Like 1
  • Dropping a turd
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 11m 7d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted
6 hours ago, bjc said:
22 hours ago, arronm said:
Turbine housing bolt holes are cracked. 

You reckon? I can't actually remember when I first saw it loose but I'll say 3-5yrs ago. I've never been able to get it properly tight as there no access and from memory I used a modified pressed steel tool from a router or some other chinesium power tool to tighten it up. Needs loctite...

You need a thinned down ring spanner 

  • Like 1
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 8m 5d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted
1 hour ago, bjc said:

Previous owner said it's an original PW stage 2 but unsure, I trust him on that though. It's fairly big but haven't got the front bumper off yet to measure it. Very similar to the Rapid cooler size (thicker I think?).
IAT's are generally 10-12°C above ambient and ambient temp was 29 when I last drove the car. It's generally after I've driven to the shops (coolant only gets to 70 at most on the trips from home) and parked the car for 20+mins then start it back up. IAT's are at 45°C from then and unless I give it a squirt on the trip home (60km zone) it'll stay at 42-44 regardless. This seems to be the case even when the ambient temp is colder around 24... Thermostat is an 80 or 82 and fans come on at 82 and off at 80, trans stays at or below 80 with the stock heat exchanger still.
I've built an air filter box out of corflute atm before I settle on design and thought it was because the SS hot side goes through this area that it was holding the heat but I wrapped it in "quality" silver insulation air bubblewrap from hello fresh (food delivery mob) and it made no difference which I'm glad I didn't exhaust wrap it first now!
Summer heat will come soon as the temp is all over the place atm so if it goes to 60°C like it was without the airbox then I'll have to keep testing.

 

Seems like it's doing a pretty good job. There's not a lot you can do when it's 35c+ every day.

  • Like 1

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