Sweet all done now..

So to re-cap when I get the car back ill

Throw on the old 4"dump

replace stage 1 process west cooler woth a 1000hp nizpro one

Change all the piping

Throw in the electronic boost controller if I need it during the tune it will be there otherwise I cbf going back again

Get the shop to do injectors and pump + whatever else is needed for e85 and away I go.

Sounds like a reasonable plan

8 minutes ago, eff xr6t said:

And here lies the reason why the stock ba motor is throwing rods on the floor.

 

Old tune from Horsepower Factory was on 14psi stable making 270rwkw auto and still blew

 

Going to go nulon, valvoline or mobil 10-50 fully synthetic . Thoughts?

48 minutes ago, k31th said:

I said this ^^

 

If you weld the internally gated exhaust housing in any way to bypass the internal flapper, it's then no longer an internally gated housing.

If you just weld a pipe around the internal wastegate port and flapper section, then your internal gate can vent to wherever you want, but it's almost entirely pointless

If you buy a specific housing that has separate outlets for both the dump and wastegate, then this is almost as pointless as the previous method.

 

It's entirely possible that the ebay jobby is the part that is leaking.

Just stop.

 

Plenty of respected turbo manufacturers see the benefit in a bridge to separate the Westgate and turbine outlet. 

 

You are wrong. Accept it,give up on the semantics to try and prove your point right and get on with life.

2 minutes ago, Ralph Wiggum said:

Plenty of respected turbo manufacturers see the benefit in a bridge to separate the Westgate and turbine outlet.

Yes, you're right... a "bridge" (even the factory ford xr6t exhaust housing has a small bridge that doesn't seal between the two outlets), but not modifying an existing factory internal gate housing so that the housing vents to atmosphere on the wastegate side and vents to the exhaust on the dump side... That's only done as a cheap way to get extra noise.

9 minutes ago, Hussydabomb said:

Going to go nulon, valvoline or mobil 10-50 fully synthetic . Thoughts?

10w-40 semi-synth is the factory recommended, so that's what I use.

Ok guys need more help ? I've been using all my spare time to get things done so far I've

-Installed the nizpro front mount

-installed hot and cold side piping

-installed oil temp gauge

And the part I'm scratching my head over is the electronic boost controller.

It is a GFB G-Force II I've wired it up and all is working in that regard it reads -64 on idle for the vacuum and 60psi on the screen when I boost it up down the road...

It does feel faster though 60psi faster??? Also the duty cycle is on 0 so it is the lowest setting.

one of my actual questions are in the installation guide it says to tap it into the vacuum line directly (ill post pictures)

or does it mean vacuum inbetween the turbo and actuator? I'd assume its getting an electronic signal from the sensor?

is this the correct line?

Now my other question is with the boost regulator in the next picture I've put it into and out of the right ports 100%

Though I have installed it right after the turbo before the factory boost solenoid right next to the battery, would that make a difference or should it be after the factory solenoid?

Also here is the install guide for some reference

Ok update: was reading the manual and its set to default kpa haha 70kpa is 10psi... defiantly spooling faster though (as I wipe the sweat from my 4head.)

Think its time to put the front bar on and take it to the mechanic for pump and injectors for e85

Lol's at an EBC without a tune to suit 

You need to remove the factory boost controller solenoid. You leave the electric plug connected then use the factory boost lines for your new controller.

The Boost controller should have been put I by the tuner. I wouldn't be giving it any jandal until it's been tuned to avoid activating ventilated block mode.[emoji106]