bamk2f6tornado

Sad day this week when I said goodbye to the F6 after 7 long years. Thanks to everyone for there input and help over the years. Special thanks to Wiggum if he's still on here and Jet. Picked up the new ute yesterday. Loving it so far

Yellow links will only line up with the cam marks at tdc once in every 36 crank rotations

That's the main depot in SA. I don't have a contact there unfortunately as I'm in qld but worth a visit. Mention your unhappy with BOC due to service and want to swap. They'll match whatever price you tell them provided you don't get carried away haha

For at home light gauge steel I much prefer 5%co2 2%oxy. Welds super super nice but isn't really suited to the think stuff. Regular industrial grade Helium is fine to weld with which is the 1 step up from balloon grade(20% nitro). Yea can either get It premixed in a bottle with argon I various %'s or use a bottle of each with 2 flow meters. Where do you live Puff?

I work for a gas company(Supagas). There is a current massive shortage of heluim worldwide and its starting to effect Australia. I'm guessing you went to BOC with that 8m3 Helium and they are taking you for a ride with that price hahah. $600 is a fair price with some party shops paying half that. Adding Helium to your argon mix definitely makes for a nicer alloy weld but isn't really necessary until your over 6mm or you little machine is running out of amps. Even a 25% Helium mix makes a huge difference. Expect the bottle to be twice the price but. Shop around for your argon! $220 for a G is taking the piss. Tell whoever your getting it from now the opposition offered it to you for $50 and they'll match it no questions asked

First day of holidays I thought I'd get around to fixing my fuel sender problem as it's been sitting on dead empty for a few months. Easy fix once I removed all the fuel system and battery from the tray. Found the fuel sender arm in the bottom of the tank. Turns out the little brass retaining plug in my herrod fuel module was machined a little small so the arm just wiggles out. Put the brass piece in the vice and squished it. Made it about 0.1mm bigger and now it secures properly. Being Good Friday it was an extensive 10 beer job haha

The Ute trays arnt fully steel lined. Take the plastic tub liner out and you can access anything you could possibly need to measure from inside the empty tub

Not really no. I've got a spare sender unit that I'll replace the one on my herrod intank module with. Hopefully that fixes it [emoji1696]

I opened my mouth to soon. Took the car for a quick spin this arvo and I didn't even make it out the driveway before it dropped back to empty. Think I'll be removing the fuel system and tub liner after all [emoji107]

Fixed my faulty fuel gauge. It just stopped reading a while back and always sat on empty. I had my mind set for a surge tank out, tub liner out, sender unit out 3hr/10beer job #utelife. I already tried disconcting the battery to no avail. Pulled fuse 27 and 29 she's good as new! I read it online somewhere and I had no hope of it actually doing anything. Beer time now[emoji481]

Yes. The spline count only changes with m78 or m86 diff centres. Unsure if they changed from b to f series. It'll fit fine if it's the same as yours just auto

That 3mm clearance will be to the brake calliper not the chassis/suspension. You could run the rears with a lower offset but you would start to loose room for wide rubber. Mine are a 10.5+22 rear with a 275 and the guards have been modified slightly to gain more room. Still scrubs a bit. 275 is as wide as I can go. You'd be able to run a 295 even a 305 with the +38 offset

You wouldn't need any camber work with those sizes quoted by koya. Very conservative fitment with zero poke. Prefect offset for fat fat rubber. Not flush fitment and will sit inside the guards a little bit In those offsets your front will sit 12mm further in than mine and 22mm further in on the rear

Found some in mine the other week. Noticed a raised section between the spot welds and got poking with the screwdriver. This is what I was left with. Drivers side door. Havnt fixed it yet

Drive past there everyday. Never even knew there was a engine builder near there

Is that the engine guy out in Wandal? I'd be keen for a run up and dyno print out if he's got it up and going. Might crack the magical 400 on a hub dyno [emoji23]

All good mate. Not much you can do with the diff as they have locating pins with zero movement. The tub does move though. Take the tub liner out and lossen the 8ish bolts. Can normally get a few mm movement out of that

4" xforce dump with 100 cell 5" cat

Sure will. Spun 4th on those crappy 235 tyres I drove home with [emoji4]

Got the Ute back a few weeks ago from CPV but been away for work so havnt had time to enjoy it yet. Made 390kw on e85. Had a few problems and didn't quite make the power we were hoping for. He suspected the few year old atomic springs had seen better days and possibly the twin 2.5" exhaust holding it back a smidge. Just to much noise when trying to push it further. We decided against chasing the few possible issues for little kw gain and just leave it there where it was happy. I'm more than happy with the power. Comes on very strong and a night and day difference between the old 98 tune[emoji1360]

Went here yesterday for work. Looks nice and the restaurant is apparently pretty bloddy good. Right across the road is a small shopping complex and other flash pubs/food options. Gutted I'm down here for work a few months to early. Fly back to home tomorrow. Cracking roads but. Even a good drive in a truck. Bonus pick of Lake Jindabyne from yesterday. No snow but cold as

Good day for it. My first time at Bathurst[emoji1360] Any other lads here this weekend?

When mine went I had no warning just went to start it one day and it was no good. I just picked up the bearings and springs ect off the floor of the Ute and put it all back in. Re-bent the lock tabs and it's been perfect 3 years later. Free repair and those kits seem crazy expensive for what you get

If you plan on running your current 245/40 on the front go a 275/35 on the rear Pics of the inside of my rear guard before paint for your reference. As you can see a fair bit of room in the inside. Mine are 10.5+22. Yours will have 15mm more suspension clearance than mine

Not a great deal of room under the rear on the outside, alot on the inside but 60+mm. For reference on lowness my Ute is 330mm hub to guard. You could get away with a 285 on the rear of mine with the current guard work. Maybe a 295 if I really cut it up and pumped it out. You will need to cut the lip regardless even with stretched rubber as the rim will contact the guard over bumps coz truck rear end [emoji23] I didn't separate my bracket from the guard or anything. Just cut the lip off and rolled the rest. Only left about 6mm of bracket left then rolled it over