MidnightXR6 Member 81 Member For: 16y 8m 16d Gender: Male Location: Aberdeen, Scotland Posted 15/11/11 05:39 PM Posted 15/11/11 05:39 PM So I decided to change my turbo nut oil filter.The original was very tight to remove but once I installed the new one I noticed a hairline crack which seeps oil when the engine is running.Going to jbweld it for now and see about shipping another block over or just a full engine if I can get one close to the 77k my ute has done.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/nissanmansco/12112011326.jpg
mic Legacy Donating Member 1,725 Member For: 18y 8m 22d Gender: Male Posted 17/11/11 11:31 AM Posted 17/11/11 11:31 AM oh dude, its not supposed to sit right against the block !!!
MidnightXR6 Member 81 Member For: 16y 8m 16d Gender: Male Location: Aberdeen, Scotland Posted 17/11/11 12:13 PM Author Posted 17/11/11 12:13 PM The original was so I did like for like. The original was very tight in getting off so maybe damage was caused here but hey ho.Ill patch it and see how it goes from there.Its hard to find a low mileage long engine or block close to the 77k my ute has :(
corkey Member 35 Member For: 17y 9m 10d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 21/11/11 04:14 AM Posted 21/11/11 04:14 AM I removed the filter gauze out of mine and fitted the earls inline kit
riptide Member 733 Member For: 15y 8m 22d Gender: Male Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posted 21/11/11 04:18 AM Posted 21/11/11 04:18 AM A clean and some high temp loktite might sort it.
riptide Member 733 Member For: 15y 8m 22d Gender: Male Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posted 21/11/11 07:17 AM Posted 21/11/11 07:17 AM I just noticed you're in Scotland. Must be a bitch getting parts over there, probably worse than NZ?
turbotrana Member 2,586 Member For: 23y 6m 10d Gender: Male Posted 21/11/11 08:25 AM Posted 21/11/11 08:25 AM (edited) Ouch, the two pack tank sealer that you knead together works real well but I dont think it will work there. You are better off with something like loctite pipe sealer or some loctite which will get it from the inside of the thread. You just have to make sure you clean as much oil off the threads as you can. I would even go so far as to get a steel adaptor with a really long thread that can go into the uncracked part of the thread so it can remain there permanently so you never have to remove it again. Then fit the oil fitting on top of this.When using loctite pipe sealer you cant just put it on the male thread and screw the fitting on. You gotta get a small screwdriver and put the loctite on the end of the screwdriver and then smear it over all of the female thread. Also do the male thread then leave it overnight to cure.You better put some thought and time into this one cause you are in Scottand.Or you can just do what most aussie guys do and just say "'phuck it'' she'll be right Edited 21/11/11 08:31 AM by turbotrana
01txr Member 861 Member For: 19y 8m 26d Gender: Male Location: QLD Posted 23/11/11 10:12 AM Posted 23/11/11 10:12 AM Best off finding how long the crack is, use Kero. It will leave a wet line where crack is. Then get a small drill bit, drill at end of crack. Keep a vacum near so you catch as much swarf as possible. Grease on drill bit helps catch the swarf as well. Once done get a tap to suit, tap a thread into it. Screw a bolt into it, grind head off for flush finish. That will stop the crack from growing. Then grind a small groove into crack, fill with devcon or a high qualityMetal bond compound. Or get welded. As for the tread in oil gallery you could have it drilled and tapped for larger fitting and use a reducer fitting. A lot of mucking around but cheaper then replacing.
JGP Legacy Donating Member 309 Member For: 16y 1m 12d Gender: Male Posted 25/11/11 03:23 AM Posted 25/11/11 03:23 AM May I ask why change the turbo nut filter?
turbowelshy89 Member 147 Member For: 16y 2m 14d Posted 25/11/11 03:35 AM Posted 25/11/11 03:35 AM Because they block up and can cause a lack of flow to the turbo therefore causing the turbo to fail.
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