Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posted

So I decided to change my turbo nut oil filter.

The original was very tight to remove but once I installed the new one I noticed a hairline crack which seeps oil when the engine is running.

Going to jbweld it for now and see about shipping another block over or just a full engine if I can get one close to the 77k my ute has done.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v45/nissanmansco/12112011326.jpg

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 8m 22d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

oh dude, its not supposed to sit right against the block !!!

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 16d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posted

The original was so I did like for like. The original was very tight in getting off so maybe damage was caused here but hey ho.

Ill patch it and see how it goes from there.

Its hard to find a low mileage long engine or block close to the 77k my ute has :(

  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 9m 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

I removed the filter gauze out of mine and fitted the earls inline kit

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 8m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posted

A clean and some high temp loktite might sort it.

  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 8m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posted

I just noticed you're in Scotland. Must be a bitch getting parts over there, probably worse than NZ?

  • Member
  • Member For: 23y 6m 10d
  • Gender: Male
Posted (edited)

Ouch, the two pack tank sealer that you knead together works real well but I dont think it will work there. You are better off with something like loctite pipe sealer or some loctite which will get it from the inside of the thread. You just have to make sure you clean as much oil off the threads as you can. I would even go so far as to get a steel adaptor with a really long thread that can go into the uncracked part of the thread so it can remain there permanently so you never have to remove it again. Then fit the oil fitting on top of this.

When using loctite pipe sealer you cant just put it on the male thread and screw the fitting on. You gotta get a small screwdriver and put the loctite on the end of the screwdriver and then smear it over all of the female thread. Also do the male thread then leave it overnight to cure.

You better put some thought and time into this one cause you are in Scottand.

Or you can just do what most aussie guys do and just say "'phuck it'' she'll be right

Edited by turbotrana
  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 8m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: QLD
Posted

Best off finding how long the crack is, use Kero. It will leave a wet line where crack is.

Then get a small drill bit, drill at end of crack. Keep a vacum near so you catch as much swarf as possible.

Grease on drill bit helps catch the swarf as well.

Once done get a tap to suit, tap a thread into it.

Screw a bolt into it, grind head off for flush finish.

That will stop the crack from growing.

Then grind a small groove into crack, fill with devcon or a high quality

Metal bond compound.

Or get welded.

As for the tread in oil gallery you could have it drilled and tapped for larger fitting and use a reducer fitting.

A lot of mucking around but cheaper then replacing.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 1m 12d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

May I ask why change the turbo nut filter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...