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  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 8m 20d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

also, have a look at how much gap there is between the block and the fitting. its not supposed to sit flush ....

  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 4m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop
Posted

We buy ours from the earls distributor, but they changed the hose style and ends a little while back, we had possibly 5 cars that had the lines leak internally into the clear coating, we know insist they use the older style fittings etc which we never had problems with, the downside is they now charge us more for the same thing they used to supply.

Earls now sell the hoses with the red heat sleeve fitted

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posted

One thing I never understood is why is the turbo nut filter on a tappered thread to go into the block?. This is whats caused it to crack since a screwed it in too far. If it wasnt a tappered threaded nut this wouldnt have happened.

On the note my original filter was perfectly clean at 77k on the engine mind you it does help I use 2 different grades of oil each year dependant on what season it is.

The ute is in the garage just now and as we speak has been JB autowelded up to see how it goes.

Im looking at an FG F6 bottom end or have found a new love for some of the atomic engines and affiliated stuff.

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 7m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone, Queensland
Posted

OK, I'll try not to split my block in the process. Are there no detrimental effects from removing it? And is there a flow restrictor hole that needs cleaning also? I suppose there is a thread somewhere I can look up :)

Depending on how regular you do engine oil changes and quality of fuel you can make it worse. For instance if you do the first couple of oil changes as per factory specs 15k then that's a decent amount of time for carbon deposits to build then once you put the flush in, it loosens all the puss and you cop it all in the turbo supply screen. As what has already been said, ditch the screen and put a remote filter set up on it such as the earls one

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posted

Well update time. Im going to collect it tomorrow. Just off the phone but it still weeps oil slightly once warmed up but it takes a while to seep oil so it is better but still looks like im needing another block.

Bloody impossible to find a low mileage block to match my 77k engine unless anyone can help?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 1m 9d
  • Gender: Male
Posted

that is pretty nasty, all the best and hope it works out. after reading your story I had pitlane install earls braided line and filter...I have forgotten how tidy braided lines look...cheers MIck!

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posted

Im hoping brad at atomic can come to my rescue and sort something out :)

  • Member
  • Member For: 16y 8m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Aberdeen, Scotland
Posted

And the results are in im going down an atomic rebuild and other bits.

  • 1 month later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 15y 19d
Posted

For anyone that is still unsure REPLACE stock filter NOW! It is tiny and completely useless and causes turbo failure. I didn't know how pathetically tiny the stock filter was until it blocked up and I blew my turbo. It's impossible to imagine what ford were thinking but $100+ for a good earls one it is definitely worth it. Pretty positive rapid sells them too for a good price

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 5m 22d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Sydney
Posted

How many kays on your car?

I considered replacing the filter but changed my mind, I don't have one at all.

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