Fuel Filter Change Highly Recomended

[Gloo]

I did mine the my old BA at 80k, had never been done prior. I got half a cup of petty in the eyes, stripped the nuts, ended up filing down the nuts to a smaller size and used 2 pairs of pliers to get the nuts off, I had tried spanners and shifters and fuked it hard. Pliers worked well with squareish nuts.

No difference in power or economy.

[Panda Eyes]

did mine today- was really helpful reading thru this thread- I was expecting the worst.

a tip though- the bolts are tight as already mentioned, so they need to be 'cracked'. I found a good way was to wedge a 17mm spanner against the chassis rail to hold the filter steady and crack the smaller bolt out of it. the rear bolt was easier- the front hard. so I left the rear bolt screwed in to help hold the filter in place, wedged a 14mm spanner for the smaller bolt against the chassis rail and 'undid' the filter from the smaller bolt. easier to get a grip/ more leverage on the nut attached to the filter.

lost about 200ml fuel.

when doing up the bolts into the new filter, do it up as tight as the old one was. once again wedge the spanner against the chassis rail and do the smaller bolt up as tight as you can. I reckon the new one I put in today would be as tight to undo as my 40,000km old one was.

no leaks but!!!

Edited 11/10/10 11:47 AM by fordriver1

[Weaponxr]

Just did my filter today at 47k and it was a b!tch of a job, it did help that I knew what I was expecting from reading this thread.

My car had the original filter which the threads were tight as evrn with some WD-40. Once I 'cracked' the thread they were pretty much hand tight. I stripped a bit of the nuts by trying to tighten them up as best I could but I have no leaks (although I will check it after a week).

I used a RYCO filter and had no real issues fitting it, I just made sure the fuel lines were pushed in as far as possible to get a good seating of the flared ends against the filter inl;et/outlet.

Overall, not a job I enjoyed much.

Adam

[Krazy Kyle]

thanks for the thread... did mine at 20k kms... was pretty easy, fuel looked a little dirty at tank end, otherwise prob didnt need doing. replaced with RYCO... didnt leak after.

[marcthelegend]

Did mine today, certainly helped having done this on my previous 2 N/A ba's, took all of about 1 minute to remove the old filter, the bolts were tight, but not overly tight. As suggested here earlier, it certainly helped wedging the spanner against the chassis rail, then you have both hands to pull on the 14mm spanner.

Fuel that drained out from the tank side was a lovely brown color, but when I ran tap water through the filter, it was clear?? anyway, took it for a drive, felt a tad stronger but not a world of difference, filter had an 8 on it, so im assuming its the original filter from 2008 (66xxx k's on it).

Looking forward to the next one in 50,000k's or so!

Marc

[Emosh99]

Looks like ryco have fixed this problem since 2007?

[Bonjaz]

changed the fuel filter every 20xxxkm on my bf sedan, very easy job. Today tryed to do my bf utes fuel filter, tryed normal spanners didnt budge, went and bought pipe spanners still no good, it actually opened up my 14mm pipe spanner a bit...looks like I am taking front and rear lines off to stick it in a vice. Not sure if it has been cross threaded or someone has put locktight on it but f*ck me its tight...

[Stazza_Brendan]

Mine is like that too. I attempted it with normal spanners, No go. Tried it with pipe spanners and a big soaking of bolt-off. No deal. Going to leave it for workshop when get tune.

[IH8TOADS]

Magnafuel MP-7007 (10micron) for pump fuel and MP-7008 (25micron stainless) for e85. I have replaced the feed line from the tank with speedflow -6 400series with 5/16 male pushlock fittings so it all plugs into the factory fittings. I just drilled out the pop rivets threw the new line and filter in (sits perfectly in the stock location) and re-pop riveted the braided line in the stock location. No more PITA filter changes!

[arronm]

did mine today- was really helpful reading thru this thread- I was expecting the worst.

a tip though- the bolts are tight as already mentioned, so they need to be 'cracked'. I found a good way was to wedge a 17mm spanner against the chassis rail to hold the filter steady and crack the smaller bolt out of it. the rear bolt was easier- the front hard. so I left the rear bolt screwed in to help hold the filter in place, wedged a 14mm spanner for the smaller bolt against the chassis rail and 'undid' the filter from the smaller bolt. easier to get a grip/ more leverage on the nut attached to the filter.

lost about 200ml fuel.

when doing up the bolts into the new filter, do it up as tight as the old one was. once again wedge the spanner against the chassis rail and do the smaller bolt up as tight as you can. I reckon the new one I put in today would be as tight to undo as my 40,000km old one was.

no leaks but!!!

I use the above wedge method, it works well