Changing The Wastegate Actuator

[Box stock T.]

47 minutes ago, arronm said:

Its actually the opposite. flapper open = low boost         diaphram failure = wastegate close, boost spike.

Oops my bad.

Cheers for clearing that up for us

a double r.

So its actually boost leak or bleed off then. That he might getting from a failing diaphragm.

 

Get the actuator installed unless you know your way around these cars.

Actuators are a pain in the arse the install. And aftermarket Actuators need the preload set correctly. Otherwise ya run into problems with the flapper not closing properly.

I got the tuner to do mine when he did the injector upgrade.

 

I have a 8 psi genuine Garrett actuator on mine and it's running 14psi now flawlessly.

It's been tuned at 11 psi and now

14 psi still no problems at.

Edited 18/01/17 12:26 PM by Box stock T.
forgot crap

[Ba04xr6T]

I was going to unbolt from the manifold and from the dump pull it out like that and im pretty surethe preload is 3mm or 3 whole turns in on the actuator from were it sits snug over the flapper

[Box stock T.]

Yeah I got mine stripped with the turbo on and went no way I'm gonna get to the circlip.

I was lucky though my tuna fitted mine for free when did the injectors.

So I knew it was set right and no issues after where it needs to be taken off and adjusted again.

[ROB83R]

This is what I meant by the genuine Garrett actuator. Turbosmart work but are just a pita to set up. 

I'm curious but with this 8psi tune you have. There's nothing else done but a boost increase? 

I doubt there was dyno time for this tune was there? I reckon the b series should've came from the factory with that little bit more boost. They're a bit too sedate standard. 

[Box stock T.]

Anyway have fun and as I said there alot of lads on here that been mucking around with these cars for a very long time. They might able to help ya out abit more. Welcome to the mad mad world of modding these cars.

[JETURBO]

12 minutes ago, ROB83R said:

I'm curious but with this 8psi tune you have. There's nothing else done but a boost increase? 

I doubt there was dyno time for this tune was there? 

 

What do you think happens to Load points/Fueling/Timing maps when you effectively lift compression  

 

yes it needs dyno time,they always do and no there's no safe way around it until it's tuned right to suit the changed boost target 

[arronm]

Seeing as its off and on with boost it sounds like a sticking flapper of dodgy actuator. Check the stock one out. If you change the actuator for turbosmart you need to set the preload. This will be difficult to get correct. If the stock one is dodgy best to replace with stock one.

 

But saying that it may be something completely different. You need someone with experience to take a look at it..

[ROB83R]

You 2 just knocked it on the head what I was trying to say. 

I think the tune should be looked at also along with the boost issue. 

Jet I have a feeling it'll start leaning it out but I'm still learning about the load points etc. You can only go so far without actually data logging and picking tunes apart. I really need to bite the bullet and get my hands on hptuners. 

[Puffwagon]

Here ya go ROB83R and anyone else who cares. 

 

A load point is a area on a map or maps that holds information regarding fuel and ignition values. 

 

For example an ignition load point will have 15 degrees btdc and the corresponding load point in the fuel map will hold a value such as lambda or a ve number that is translated into milliseconds. This is how long the injector will stay open for and roughly would be between 1.5 and 2 ms at idle. 

 

The load point selected in a map sensor based ecu is dictated by manifold air pressure.

 

Every time the same air pressure is achieved you will get the same ignition or fuel values commanded. 

 

If there is an air pressure value that is exactly half way between 2 load points then it will interpolate the 2 points eg: a 15 degree load point next to a 20 degree load point will return a value of 17.5 degrees. This is a sliding scale and will vary from 15 to 20 degrees depending on which one it is closer to. 

 

Finally there are correction maps that ask for more or less fuel and or ignition depending on a multitude of variables. The most common are battery voltage, coolant temp and intake air temp. 

 

There are other types of load point setups such as using tps vs rpm for giant cams or itb's or a combination of that plus calculated air mass.

 

For further reading I would suggest downloading an aftermarket ecu manual such as haltech and seeing what they have to say on the matter.

 

One last point is like to make is that hptuners will be confusing as fark compared to a live tuning setup. 

 

Buy a cheap commy, get over pcmhacking.net and buy the stuff to live tune it. You could buy a decent registered car and the tuning stuff for less than $1500.

[arronm]

But why.  So much hassle and so much could go wrong if the parameters are no correctly set. 

 

So  easy to buy all mods, fit or get tuner to fit.  Drive car in , get tuned, drive out and enjoy.  

 

Do it once, do it right!!