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cat007

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Everything posted by cat007

  1. How's the street driving and low range resolution of 5 bar tmap? Does it become like a 40psi Honda with dogsh*t low end but moon tune above half throttle?
  2. Oh. Ok. Thanks. Is the boost sensor the one at the top of the elbow before the throttle body?
  3. Hi all. Dyno day next week for my FGX XR6T and it's been suggested to upgrade to a 3 bar map sensor. I have a Bosch sensor but I think the wiring is back to front (from a BA?). The sensor I have is part number: 0281006076 Does anyone know what Bosch part number I should be looking for? Cheers!
  4. cat007

    OL-fault ..help

    Raw fuel can make an O2 sensor read lean.
  5. Kaspa will install your parts, but I'm not sure if you want to go about buying parts online and having another company fit them. You might be better off in the long run shipping your trans to an Aussie builder and have them do the job. Yes it will cost a bit, but as you're already chasing 500rwkw then this extra cost will be a drop in the bucket compared to what you're already spending....
  6. Sorry to dig up an old thread, but how did you get the engine up enough to be able to get even the passenger side out? Did you leave the big ali bracket that the mount bolts to, attached to the block? I can't seem to jack the engine up enough to get it out. Any more pressure and it starts to lift the car without the engine going up any more. I can't see what's stopping it going up any more - maybe the back of the engine on the tunnel/firewall?
  7. Sorry to dig up an old thread but I have a question about the step in the manual regarding adjusting the handbrake: "(b) Pulls the equaliser to the rear of the vehicle." Using this picture as reference - thanks Does this instruction mean pulling back on the silver section towards the rear of the car, pulling on the handbrake cable going to the handbrake lever? Or does it mean pulling the silver part forward which would pull on the handbrake shoes and slackening the handbrake lever? Cheers! Hunt 206-05 Parking Brake and Actuation.pdf
  8. Fenix are cheaper. Not as good as pwr but you pay for what you get.
  9. Where did you get GTX G2 from?
  10. 450rwkw on E85 from the baby 3576 turbo? That's more than just a happy dyno. That's a broken dyno!
  11. My 2015 FGX hit 130K the other week. Was 77K when I got it in 2016 (18 months old and 77K done - thanks NSW HWP)
  12. Can't speak for all but my OEM one only started making that noise at the 100-110k km mark. I'll have another listen next week when the car is warmed up a bit and see if it comes back.
  13. I've only just not listened to your audio clip. I used to have the exact same sound and I was original tensioner and chain etc. I've since changed to Empire for both and I hadn't noticed the sound but have a loud exhaust on so that drowns it it. *edit I have just checked and I no longer have the sound....the only thing changed in my valve train was the chain, tensioner and guides.
  14. As annoying as this may seem, throw that atomic tensioner in the bin and get OEM or Empire.
  15. They might be fine for an OEM replacement at stock power levels. But I wouldn't dare to guess what they'll be like with more power going through them.
  16. I think he may have been referring to 'backyard mechanics' where not many have a press.
  17. And don't forget that's USD too - so convert that plus shipping and you start to get fairly pricey - not $6K pricey but still not quite $240....
  18. Hmmmm mine have done that for years! Mine is more of a constant ticking. I thought it was a stick stuck in the abs sensor or something. Have never found out what it was. Did yours let go or did you replace before they did?
  19. Oh ok - so the bolt is not tight, it's stripped. If you're taking it to the mechanic, get them to fix the thread.
  20. I doubt they are through holes. So best you make sure you have the correct length bolt. Take the drain off and measure the depth of the hole. If you don't have a set of verniers, then you could just use a tooth pic - poke into hole and use your nail or a pen against the side of the tooth pic and the hole to mark the depth. Then make sure your bolt is no longer than that + the thickness of the flange. Ok re-reading your post, you say the bolt is tight but it won't do up anymore, but then you mention using a helicoil. Is the thread busted in the sump flange (cross threaded, stripped etc) or is the bolt too long? A helicoil isn't going to help if the bolt is just too long for the hole....
  21. By 'sump drain bolts' are you referring to the turbo oil drain and the 2 bolts that bolt it to the sump?
  22. Testing it before installation and testing it in place can give vastly different results. A lot of things could have happened during the install. Bent actuator arm, clocked turbo causing binding etc etc. Best to test it in place and confirm it still moves. If the wastegate isn't opening because of a bent arm or something, you're going to get all sorts of issues, some exactly as you're describing....
  23. If the wastegate is 'blowing open' then that would suggest you're not actually able to build boost. Possible that the wastegate is not opening at all? Have you got the solenoid plumbed around the correct way? What size spring have you got in the WG? Does the wastegate move freely? Without the car running, use compressed air and (GENTLY) apply a small amount of pressure and see if the wastegate actually opens. A bike pump is an easy way to do this - just don't be trying it with 50PSI (or +100PSI as most shop air systems run on) or you'll break things.
  24. Does it go into limp mode if you just cruise around and stay off boost?
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