Grego.77

Awesome build. Like the ecu removed.

I think this drive chain slack would be a main contributor to busting input shafts front and rear diff bushes also. I done all my bushes although it improved it only improved by 50%

Ow and the IDIOTS (some who advertise/donate on here) who dont own a 4 wheel drive dyno who offered to tune my car by locking the front wheels and allowing that planetary gear set to scream its dial off oughta go back to working on Briggs & Stratton lawn mowers where they achieved their mechanical licence that's even if you have one your skills are more suited there. You know who you all are.

Why they do it??? Ill tell you why. There is more Engineers or I mean accountants of manufactures that spend more time on new cars ensuring that items wear out evenly and completely rather than designing the car. After the early 70s that's how every manufacturer operates. Otherwise they go broke. No body will buy new cars or parts.

Yup the chain has stretched that much. Theres no wear on the sprockets or shafts or any of the roller bearings. In reverse (unless Herrod tuned) you dont get full throttle. (Iv tried lol) So you only need Derlin on the slack side (in forward mode)

I was thinking of the name of that no wear nylon also CBC bearings stock it. You could shape something up and just bolt it through the case pretty easily Id say. Plenty of meat to do it.

By the way the suv has done over 200,000km and its been banging jumping for at least the last 14,000km that Iv owned it. The oil was fairly clean and those marks on the inside of the transfer case that look like metal shavings are actually just the cast marks. There is a 3 pinion planetary style gear set which is built also really tough well at least a hell of a lot stronger than whats in the ZF 6 speed. I dont know what other guys are breaking but if you seen how well made these cases are inside including the thickness of materials used you will easily see without being a metal expert that they could handle a damn lot more HP than the box. Iv seen whats inside the ZFs 6s and 8s including the USA modeled cars (which are stronger built than our Australian version) and this is a hell of lot stronger than the rest of the drive train. Apart from the chain... ow and the allen key that's jammed in it. There are a few custom chain manufactures out there but until the new one goes Im not stressed about it.

Anyways... it seems Im better at mechanics than uploading pics.. Sorry guys for the 1 pic. Good news is that all you have to do is remove rear tail shaft remove the 15 10mm hex bolts and the transfer case splits with no special tools. All components just slide out VERY easily replace chain assemble and off you go.. Maybe a 1hr job for first timers.

So good news for Territory owners stressing about transfer cases breaking. I just pulled my down and was shocked to see nothing wrong with it.... At first. The weak link is the chain, the rest of the transfer case is built extremely well. After checking all components theres no stressed parts even though the chain was jumping over the sprockets.. Pics below

Barnz Im lost and admit it lol... Ill sort it out one day. I remember about 15yrs ago being at an illegal st run. Back in the days when rotaries were over due to everyone building all wheel drived rexies evos and the odd Godzilla (if the gearbox held together) than came a bloke in thongs unshaven and a brown paper bag covering his long neck asked my mate Ill give you a run we asked what are you driving he pointed at a pressure packed blue LH torry full of rust that had 44 gallon drums welded and silasticed in the boot and half the rear seats. No blower and a 308 of all motors. My mate at the time had the fastest rexy going half grout filled block T04 forrester diff gears and a forrester moded auto 3500 stall.. quick car even for todays standards spent over $70k. This home made full tubbed 308 believe it or not..... beat my mates rex. I estimate over a thousand people witnessed this out at Camden. Found out the guy is a boiler maker and built his torry for $2500 complete from start to finish. Engine was a half grout filled 333 stroker that spun to 9200rpm a 2 speed powerglide a homemade 9inch with 5. something :1 gears. This story has nothing to do with this forum and I aint building no 1/4mile car (cmon its over 2tonnes) or thread but I do feel pretty dumb that I cant get an engine right the first time that thousands of other guys have done before me. Anyways Im off the forums till shes done and Ill put up a dyno sheet and as promised will show a dismantled transfer case which I still think is chain driven. Have a good one guys.

You loose a few KW due to it being all wheel drive... apparently a 410rwk engine (since you guys tend to use kw) ends up being only 380awkw due to extra friction or static and some technical term and being a skinny rod motor compared to the FGs Im guessing the tuners are running them fatter to keep em safe. Than again I could be wrong. But ey 400 to 500 ponies is close enough. The guy gets the idea.

And why we do it??? because even this bores me

I forgot to add... The front and rear diff bushes as well as other components are cheap to buy but a nightmare to do it yourself. Even for skilled backyard mechanics. Get an inspection report from a reputable suspension place.. I strongly suggest not to go to Pedders for their $28 report because I and at least 1 other Territory owner I know of got bad advice. Cost is minimum $1500 to $3000 for drive in drive out and you only need to do it once. Nolathane Urathane recycled condoms anything but what Ford has fitted will be better and completly change the way these buses handle. Seems even @ 40,000km these bushes seem to let go. I have Plazmaman valve springs 1000kpm injectors Walbro intank fuel pump a FMIC (no plumbing) but fits and performance nicely Plazmaman cold air intake K&N filter some still new some done less than a 1000km which I can sell you cheap if your intrested just PM me. (dunno if Im allowed advertise here but sh*t have I spent some money with donating sponsors on here)

that's what some1 done on my 06TTG and the line itself overheats at the turbo end and blocks up with burnt oil.

Ow and you need an Earls Territory braided tubo line kit.. $180 and have fun fitting it

Mate take it from me.... DONT DO IT!!! lol.. Mine started with exactly what you want and $20k later Im still not happy lol... In all honesty dont make the same mistake I have and start your project without doing a compression test first. 185psi+ and you're ok. Debung exhaust is an easy enough job and will do you for around 400HP at all 4 wheels provided.. here is where it gets fun. 1# you need valve springs cheapest way to go about it is ebay just basic Performance Springs will do the job around $250 You need a specialized tool $500 or you may be able to hire one it may be easier to buy springs from your desired tuner as he may loan you the tool. That is the head on valve spring way pulling head off will cost you over $300 in head gaskets and head bolts. 2# Is you need a front mount IC. Plazmaman make them as a kit cost is around $2500 or you can find an ic with dimensions no wider than 450mm wide and 300mm to 400mm in height and you can run up to 100mm thick and purchase a pick it yourself alloy/silicon plumbing kit from ebay again for $150ish 3# 1000KPM injectors will get you around 400HP on 98 or around 500HP on E85 provided you also install an intank Walbro fuel pump. 4# you need an Xcal4 which is what your desired tuner will use to tune your original ECU cost of dyno tune and xcal is around $2000 5# an 11 blade front wheel and a flapper mod (ported waste gate) for a turbo and you you must get at least a 3.5" dump pipe I suggest dont get one from ebay and you dont need stainless cost around $750ish drive in drive out. Cost of Turbo mod is maximum $1500 IF your CHRA is cooked and needs replacing. 6# sad part is once this is all done you may twist/break your input shaft on your beloved over engineered piss weak ZF 6 speed.. Cost to hold together $8000.... Or just debung exhaust run a cold air intake they are about $400 from plazmaman or ill sell you mine cheap and get a dyno. <which is what I should of fkn done. Im sure there are many other ways of doing this but this is the most common

Its got a base tune in it for the 1000kpm injectors and I can put around in it. Iv only got myself to blame because I did start off with only wanting 300ish awkw on 98. I guess now I have a brand new Garret 12psi actuator an intank (I think 255) Walbro fuel pump 1 week old and 1000KPM matched injectors (1 week old) up for sale going cheap.

Im not saying Chev is better than Ford or NA is better or anything along those lines... Im really saying I have no fkn idea what Im doing with this car and its going to be pretty embarrassing if I cant pull 600HP+ from an engine that has double overhead cams 24v a coil per cylinder fly-by wire technology crank trigger ignition variable cam timing forged internals the largest bolt on turbo money can buy ect ect. I guess Im almost there Iv just made the wrong choice it seems with injectors and fuel pumps. And Im feeling VERY emotional and sh*t that my car went in on Thursday for bushes and a truetrac and I still haven't gotten it back. Also I sold my much loved HQ 1 tonner yesterday engineered with an injected 5l and turbo700 to a mate really cheap to finish off this project :( A lesson to all if you marry a hot chick and you both ride sports bikes wear a jimmy... Otherwise you end up spending all you have on tin tops with 4 wheels.

I dont know..Whats done is done. Iv been told the same problem with the screw type fuel lock. Ill try my hardest to fit an intank. Maybe get a late model tank chop the section out and plastic weld it in. :( My mates who are old school engine builders are laughing at me because Im building a Turbo 6. When I tell them the amount of money Iv spent on it or the cost of parts they are all giving me sh*t. 1 close mate just a couple of months ago squeezed 920HP at the flex plate on a $7000 build BBC... And that's on 98 the guys that old school that he hasn't even heard of E85.

I spoke to the boys at KPM and they were pretty helpful and honest in the sense that they have never installed or known anyone to have installed one of their units to a territory. They asked me to pull my unit out and take photos and measurements and they were pretty confident that they will be able to say yay or nay. They asked whos tuning the car and I said Joe from CMS they said he should have 1 in stock to compare. Im pretty sure 1000kpm injectors can produce 500kw only because a very good friend of mine is running 1000cc injectors in his WRX and is pulling 418 awkw from a little 2 liter. His running twin 044s and a 2l surge tank all external. My mistake was starting this project just wanting 300kw but being a NA man through and through I hated the slugish/laggy unresponsive feel of a turbo especially on a hot day or after sitting at traffic lights. So than came the Plazmaman FMIC than I noticed I had 2 dead cylinders after doing a head-on valve spring change than no one will give me warranty on a rebuilt box unless I go billet in and cryo out shafts so before I knew it I hit over $10k and decided to buy a second hand low km FG engine wreckers asking to much so I bought forged internals along with oil pumps timing gear screw in studs ect ect and Im guessing you know how it goes. I like to do things right the first time and not do them again. I really thank the guys who I have pm and you guys for giving me some insight on where I go from here and with your input and advice Ill try my hardest to go with the twin KPM intank setup and keep my fingers crossed on what the old girl pulls.

Iv got a decent tuner I just want to be able to do as much work as possible myself before it gets the tune for 2 reasons 1 is some satisfaction that Iv done it myself and the other is I dont want a poor result and having to repay for dyno tuning because I had insufficient fuel flow. Iv got full faith in my tuner who is Joe from CMS and he suggested an in tank set up and told me its worth $1695 he didnt say how many ponnies Ill get but Im guessing it should be good for around 500awkw. Am I asking too much??

I found them... $1695 :( why does yours smell for?

I have plans for the transfer case and tail shaft will be upgraded when need be. Drive shafts aren't an issue apparently probably because the power gets transmitted more evenly. I guess if your doing hellies they might let go. Is the KPM intank a complete unit? I mean is it a swirl pot with sender and pumps inbuilt? My setup at the moment is the 4 screws ontop to hold the unit down apparently on the later models they have a screw type lock. Where do I find a KPM setup?