Grego.77

I haven't purchased anything yet in regards to the fuel set up apart from an in tank walbro. So what are the better options?

In tank not intake.. Truetrack diff also

Atomic 698 rods, Mahle pistons, Atomic oil pump, H/D timing chain, sprockets, moly retainer bolt, HD tensioner, screw in head studs, performance springs, all decked square and blue printed 1000kpm injectors plazmaman fmic 4" intake pt6466 4' dump 3.5" straight through B&M transcooler all that's in and running at the moment. Cars booked in for Billet input shaft cryo output atomic flex plate megatronics exedy clutches ect ect. So Ill ask again whats the cheapest way to run fuel pumps and what is needed. I can spend $1695 for an intake twin fuel pump setup but Im pretty sure there is a cheaper way out of this.

Bloodycrashboy your living the dream!! TT is on my bucket list. Would absolutely love to see WSB in another country. Enjoy mate

Iv got an in tank walbro 255 because I originally only wanted 320 on 98 and 380ish on E85. But since I had to do a rebuild and a new turbo (pt6466) my setup should be by right for around the 500awkw mark. I really need some advice on what to run, Would 1x bosh 044 be sufficient with a 2 liter surge and is the walbro suitable as a lift pump. Do I need to do any modifications eg fuel reg rails upgrade fuel line diameters ect and whats involved. I need a cheap set up as Im running low on funds at the moment. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Its a TTG so 10L aint that much. Bent crank?? no way.. IF you had the hp you might crack the sump or block. When I was a mechanic back in my hey days you wouldnt believe how many people actually filled there engines to the rocker cover... Women AND men.. Seen it all... brake fluid in radiators engine oil in window washer coolant in window washers engine oil in gearboxes that one happened plenty of times but the best ones were petrol in diesel engines or diesel in petrol engines.

I put 8L in it checked for leaks drove 100km checked it again and sh*t my pants... I was like you got to be fn kidding me theres no oil in the fkn thing!! so I put another 2l in it (its all I had left) drove home checked it again and again and again and yeah.... she was over full lol.. So I emptied a couple of liters.

My new built engine just clicked its first 1000km and oil is still that clean I cant read it on the dip stick...

Damn your cars clean lol.... Its fitted and running without any dramas theres no restrictions so Ill keep it how it is. I think if I went to the creek for a run scrutinizes may have something to say about it because they may want braid. But Its a place Ill never go to and I know its a reliable fitting.

And PWR for the trans. In series with a new heat exchanger Mate I dont think running a heat exchanger inline is a good idea. Im pretty sure a few guys on here have had some bad experiences with those OEM units splitting causing your box to milkshake. I know for a fact my cousins near new FG split one earlier this yr.

Ahhh... yeah Iv got a spare front diff I know which one your talking about. C%$T of a job!! I didn't think that was a wearing part especially on something that's only done a 100k??? F that Id be doing a bogin special on it. I feel your pain and thanks for the heads up on that 1.m actually not going through Pedders. Their $28 report was full of bull. Got a better price including the same amount of work and than some and lifetime warranty on bushes and labor through Sydney Suspension. Shes booked in for next week.

Diff-mount front inserts R 49178 Nolathane Bush Kit <if that's the bushes your saying are dead on yours??

How do I have the wrong barbs for 400 series hose?? Its push on hose with push on barbs? Just wire brushed off the plastic lines off the plastic barbs that ran to the tranny and 1/2" hose fitted VERY snug over that also. Some water hose clamps just in case to keep it secure.

I particularly like the hot pink wreckers writing on the rocker cover.

So my engine is in as of last Saturday. Cant do much with it cause as soon as the boost comes on she cuts out (2600rpm) So Im putting around like an old man until CMS can get me in. Said about 2 weeks :( guess Ill go get my bushes done while waiting for it. I was quoted $2050 for front and rear bushes front radius complete lower arms bump stops and a couple of top rear outer bushes said theyll throw in my front CVs for free. My rear blades shocks and springs were already done by the previous owner guess that's keeping cost down a little. This car is the never ending story. So at least 2 weeks till that dreaded clunking transfer case comes out.

Pedders told me $28 later that my front lower ball joints are fkd that's what my banging was lol... Ok there is a cheaper solution to your fix of the front diff Diff-Front-Mount-Support-Insert-Bush-Kit. Apparently you can squeeze these into your oem bushes. Iv never done it.

Fits like a finger in a bum Yeah no problems. Iv ran similar B&M coolers and Iv never had a problem with them. I skimped out once many yrs ago on a chinese copy and it was useless earls fittings didnt seal that great and the fan was weaker than a Sunday morning fart after a big night out followed by a dirty kebab. In the end the fn thing split on me between the fitting and the end tank.

I purchased a B&M 70298 Im going to fit it tomorrow.. Thinking of it going underneath besides the box on the passenger side in between the chassis rails. Should fit in there nice and flush and keep the temps down. While I was trying to figure out what the banging was before pulling her apart I gave her a hard time stalling it up creeping ect in a about a minute the D indicator on the dash starting flashing. Guessing it was telling me its overheating lol. I removed my heat exchanger and ran the engine oil cooler through N/A plumbing cause it was more simple. Came up pretty neat. Dont need water through the pt6466.

LMFAO

Is yours an FX6??

Yeah its not my engine stand. Mines got a 350 on it from my boat. Iv heard engine builders complain about them but untill it happens you dont realise how dangerous the stupid things are. I nearly tipped it while torquing the studs up but never thought this would happen. Iv seen and I dont know where but it maybe a very old thread on here or some other forum but someone removed the top mount made an alloy box and ran a flat styled K&N in it. Looked like a lot of work went into it. Nothing wrong with cheap air pods especially these days Auto Saloon tested some out againsts the big brands and they actually flow better it just comes down to how well they filter. Bit of K&N filter oil will catch most things thrown at it. I had an under the battery tray cold air pod which came with the Plazmaman fmic fitted before this although the car ran a lot better it was too restrictive if I was going to go with a few the 6466. It tidies up the engine bay a lot but if you need a 4" Id be sticking to something similar to what Im running. Iv even kept the original battery cables and fittings. Im not building a show car lol, The longer the pluming the more heat soak.

Dont know if you can see it but the sump is smashed in. Stupid 3 wheel engine stand. Smashed a brand new alternator and water pump.also. Tried to save the turbo which I did but ended up fracturing my wrist. Bit hard to build and fit engines 1 handed :( If any1 is fitting a 6466 on a ttg its a tight fit between the actuator oil return line and engine mounts.

Really bad pic... Just took it with my phone... but you get the idea. Will post up proper pics when the car is back on the rd.

Ill post pics in here as soon as I can.