Grego.77

Ill sort it out hopefully. The tc came in today and I cant believe how light they are lucky to be 15kg. Car was supposed to go in today for the box and tune but I ran into some dramas over the weekend fitting her in. I dont want to split the new 1 open to see the design but really am disapointed that I couldnt get the car in and see whats in the old one.

sh*t.....Just looked at their website. I was going by what a friend told me. Those f%$kers are that smart at over charging it was them who we can blame for paying $6 for a 600ml bottle of water!! I may have spent a bit of coin on my car and it certainly isnt no where near what other guys have spent but Im far from rich or even well off. Think Ill pass on that inquiry.

Ok so is it just me or is that green beast only 3 wheel drive?? You could mini/full spool or BOC the front diff but remove passenger side inner drive shaft or CV. That would certainly take the stress off the tc. Its impossible for that rear wheel driven Late model camira to stay that close to an all wheel drive or am I wrong?? and he is smoking that front drivers up hard. I dont know but Ill keep researching. Ford quoted me a crazy $8k for a new tc or a 4 speed one (earlier models) for $3800 I had to ask. The Borgwarner option Im guessing will be up there unless I can sorce a 2nd hand one. Maybe an R32/3/5 is something I can adapt. Ken Blocks Muzzy is apparently running a Porche Cayenne front diff and tc.

I got a custom 4" dump made of stainless and asked them to make sure I have the room for heat growth. The dumps are different!! dont buy a generic one off Ebay. Cost of 4" dump with 100cell cat $700. But I kinda know the boys at Liverpool exhaust. Whole system $1500 including dump. If you live in Sydney I could maybe ask the boys to look after you??

I was fitting the pt6466 up today and they aint a straight out fit. The housing needs to be spun around the actuator bracket than doesnt line up and also the return oil line is a different fit. The housing is about 1" longer also so your exhaust needs to have the room to move back. Im doing this with engine out I can only imagine how hard it will be with engine in. I would of just ran an 11 blade wheel and got a flapper mod but my core was toast and my housing around the flapper is cracked up. Its cracked that bad that I get an engine code stating waste gate fail to close lol

What I did was I bought a Plazmaman 4" air box for a BF with a 4" 45* alloy bend cost $200. Looks pretty but doesnt fit. Had to cut a lot of it out due to my hot pipe coming around and down under the drivers side head light. They dont fit at all and come down to short as the terri has a deeper engine bay. Wasted my money. I made it fit but I think it was a waste. I then bought an Odyssey PC925MJT from Ebay $269 than bought an Aeroflow bracket for that battery from Rocket Industries for $110 nutserted and welded nuts to the inside of the face of the body so the battery is verical. I removed the tape from the wiring to flatten it out more and cut off the plastic lip from the fuse box so the battery can sit hard up against the wall. Purchased a Simota low profile 4" air pod fr4om ebay again plus a bit of 45* silicon hose together $50. Ill upload some pics shortly of it. Battery cranks the motor hard and fast and there is a lot of room for air intake and I guess its legal. You can buy the kit from Plazmaman for I think $1100 you wont have to cut the lip off the fuse tray or flatten out the wiring but there setup has the air filter jamed up against the battery.

My EX owned a 4 Coupe Monaro with the 427 option. I broke the tc in it just out of warranty. Expensive Daewoo was nice enough to repair it still under warranty when I asked on the design of the tc the guy said they are actually belt driven inside and the Fords are running a chain?? My workshop manual is absaloutly useless but Ill pull it down next week or so. I never inteded to build this car so far but the engine was due for a rebuild (75psi in no2 cylinder 90psi in no5) and that was after doing a head-on valve spring upgrade. The exhaust wasnt the best so that turned into a 4" dump going through to a 3.5" looked for an FG motor but they are asking way to much so it turned into an Atomic rod with Mahle pistons set up the turbo core is noisy because it had 4" of burnt oil in the supply line and the surroundings of the flapper/exhaust housing is cracked so that became a pt6466 the tm ic is useless so that became a plazmaman setup its just a never ending story. Im scared to add up how much Iv spent on it and Iv done most of the labour myself. But this tc issue must be sorted.

I know the stock tc will hold out for a short while which is what that green beast is maybe running. I just hate building a car and not doing it right the first time and never having to do it again.

LOL @ Radius bushes. Yeah shes booked in @ Sydney suspension (I think they call themselves) out @ Penrith. Really good bunch of guys got me under the hoist while they stressed the front. Im not exaggerating when I say this but iv got over 4" of movement. My front diff bushes are rs/broken my rear is starting to show signs of wear (215,000km) some how my lower ball joints and inner bushes are ok which Pedders said are RS. Ill buy a truetrack rear while they do it.

Yeah I spoke to Nizpro a few months ago but no luck. Think Iv rang every gearbox/transmission place going. I bought a stock one today to get me through they aint cheap. Maybe 3D image it and give the file to a machine shop make it out of something better.

mate your spot on.... just got diagnosed by Ford of all ppl. My bad on the diff specs I should of cleaned the sticker better all TTGs and FX6s are running 3.4s. Ok so who builds a tough transfer case? good for 500kw or their abouts???

Hey guys really need some help on what the front diff ratio options are. Reason Im asking is because my rear is 3.7 and the spare I have is 3.4. I cant see the tag on whats in mine and there is some severe continous clunking under load that's getting gradually worse that several workshops cant pin point. Thought Id buy another diff before the new engine is dropped in this weekend and the diff bushes get changed by a workshop either today or tomorrow. Any help would be appreciated.

@Bigg_kayz, Never heard so much sh*t in my life, brother inlaw has been running wrecking yards for years and the upside down sticker is a load of crap. These premium systems get kicked around for years before being sold. Never an "ink" problem. Mine jammed 6 cds in and I asked him to sort it out in my ttg 6 months ago. It was ripped out in 5 mins than dismantled upside down sideways vertical you name it the guy is rough as f^%$ turned the cd load mechanisim manually reinstalled it and bang all 6 cds removed. Told me to keep 1 cd in at a time and havent had an issue since.

Do a comp test before going any further. Gearbox will sh*t itself.. Put $8k+ away for when it happens.

In the 100 or so high performance engines I have ever built I have NEVER come across this problem. Even on cheap cast pistons and rings. Im currently building a sbc and I purchased the cheapest nastiest Federal Moguls hyperutectics with moly rings and they arent 1" out. I tried checking the oil ring gap but due to it being soooo thin and flimsy its extremely hard to get an accurate measurement. Tried even having a piston sit down the bore sit an oil ring in it and sit another piston upside down over it pull the top piston out if you know what I mean. Visually the is a gap about 10" a bit tight but I can live with that but when I go to measure the gap it can continuously open due to lets call it ring warp??

Torque plate instaled while measuring. Doesnt matter what cylinder I tried their 100% identical. Theres only 1" difference between torqued and removed. Almost not worth paying the extra money. These new barra 6s are pretty good.

How'd you go?

Has anyone experienced problems with Mahle piston rings? My first set had a 40" gap so I exchanged them for a second set they state they are Drop In. The second set has no gap so I filed the moly rings to 16" than went on to the second ring and found between a 17" and one dropped in at 26" Some had no gap. The bore/hone is not even half a " out on all cylinders with plate torqued. Have I ended up with 2 F'd sets of rings in a row??? Or is this my welcome to Mahle?

Bottom compartment slides completly out on mine. Just pull on it hard enough and it unclips. Iv lost sooooo many items down the sides of these damned seats!

This is just too funny

Yeah they lean out number 5 cylnder lol. I read it somewhere yrs ago but I seen it today. Another great quality product from plazmaman.

maybe fitted?

I forgot to mention the file back is needed because you can really close up the size of the hone to piston clearance making a better seal you also can use a very fine hone stone. Problem is sometimes depending on piston and ring brands the rings end up being too tight. So each ring needs to be inserted measured and filled back. I own a 1973 Skicraft boat with a 1973 350 sbc which has had a very hard life. I pulled it down 2 weeks ago and its still got stock pistons in it a huge ridge and still has hone marks in the bore. Where the cylinder head studs are besides the bore its glazed/shinny/smooth. So 40yrs on and singing at 5200rpm most of its life its half run in and the rest is worn out. Hope this makes sense. And yes the engine had blow-by. There are many other factors when building ford chev engines which are time consuming because there so roughly built from factory such as checking sump to oil pick up clearances checking all oil galleries checking bolt stretch ensuring your torque wrench is accurate the list goes on and on. I think places like Brad at Atomic are offering for the amount of work that is done is very fair in my opinion.

The studs/bolts go just around the cylinder walls. When heads on and torqued the walls of the cylinders flex considerably. A standard bore/hone is done without a plate torqued replicating the head. Iv worked at a machine shop and its really how fussy you are at the end of the day. The result is well worth the effort.

my 2 cents worth? ford 6s from the 60s have always had pretty good cranks eg a 600,000km motor I done just needed a linish and who wants stock clearances on a big engine?? You may want to check crank degree for indexing if your really fussy and undersize the crank but again ford 6s are pretty good from factory in my exp. Torque honing/boring I think is a must on any high comp/boost engine and filling back rings with the engine torqued always is a very time consuming job otherwise you end up with blow-by and catch cans ect to compensate your clearances you also have a problem with cylinder wall thickness on ford 6s as well as nearly every other engine out there and every block is different so a sonic test is a must,you might be lucky the first time or you might buy 4 blocks before finding a good one. Due to the design of the engine (2foot long crank) the main caps tend to walk even on a stock NA engine so it depends on how fussy you are if you want an align and tunnel hone as well as improving block twist with studs/girdles ect block decking and squaring is a dummy assemble and nearly every ford/chev is miles out the ford 6 being the worst iv ever come across. Spool rods are great but weigh nearly 90 grms more than stock but your pistons (forged) will be or hopefully depending what you buy will be lighter over stock and the ford 6 doesnt have much in counter weight so again how fussy are you? Timing chain oil pumps and guides cost money and help keep your engine together and more consistant and to me on a ford 6 is another must. Iv hit over $6000 doing it myself buying a block with only 60,000km on it for $200 having a friend who owns a machine shop and being lucky the first time with 250"+ wall thickness. Lets not get into the head costs but A basic service is all that's really needed with springs for 400kw Im only chasing 500HP at all 4 wheels but its an everydayer weighing in at 2100kg so what are you getting for $6500?? Bargain if you ask me.