Grego.77

I kept it at 20" unless the machine shop stuffed up (its happened to me twice before). Find out early next week when I go to pick her up. Im actually pretty keen to see the difference

Was that with a 0 deck height?

Nah all good, easily worked it out. Actually needed JEs with an 11cc dish to bring it up to 9.2:1

Ow and yeah... not so lucky with getting it back together within a day as promised when your machine shop is being a f&^%wit

Im told low 9s is the way to go these days?? 9.1 9.2:1

Do you guys think going to a 13cc dish from a 15cc will bring the comp up to the low 9s?

Yeah I think the forged Mahles were a bad choice, too much of a dish.

Motors pulled down Iv got 040" to 0 deck it and that's after taking 010" off already and Ill chase up to find out whats safe to take off the head. 2200km in and still at 153 to 155psi?? that could be part of the problem for being lagy. The original engine with over 200k had 173 to 185psi. All valves are sealing 100% but haven't lost even 1/2 a thou off the rings. 1 piston has gotten caught which caused a very light knock but still had 155psi.. Reason for getting caught is anyone's guess. Spent half the day checking bore to piston clearance and all are 100%. Back together she goes tomorrow and this time close up the ring gap even more. Anyone know what their comp reading are?

1.4s???? 60 foot on a stock converter??? In a 1.8 tonne car Its impossible!!! someone is telling you fibs.. maybe with a trans-brake?? Or a big shot of Nos and a transbrake .. Im actually pulling my engine out again today and maybe up the comp.. Cars ok once your going its just really disappointing out of the hole.

Car got a stage 2 box built along with a truetrac and a bit of a tune...64/66 needs a minimum 2700 stall and that's just to be an everydayer. Still has a very unresponsive feel. Car gets up and goes but theres nothing really fun/tough about it. Sounds like a hair dryer on steroids bucket of s$#% getting out of the hole healthy NA in an old school lighter car any day for me. Each to their own I suppose.

My bad on the ZF tune... seems the engine gets tuned at the same time as the box... I actually thought it was a separate file. Im hating this car more and more lol

I ran Atomic head studs in mine, didnt know ARP was making bolts to suit but I doubt we need head studs for a small build (under 550rwkw). With the valve springs Crow make a spring but than you have to run crow retainers and collets than you have to machine your rockers, I know of at least 1 engine that failed using Atomic springs and 1 using Crow. Iv heard of a couple of engine failures due to Performance springs but in saying that Im guessing 20 sets of Performance springs are sold to 1 of the other 2 companies. When I was building engines I never heard of anyone break a Performance spring. Its a budget company that makes OK products. Their springs were known to loose tension over time but so does every other manufacturer apart from guys like Isky... Unfortunately Isky dont make springs for the Barra. Ps... I wouldn't run Crow if I was paid to do so. Im guessing Plazmaman springs are renamed Performance also

Forgot to mention after pulling head off your said motor check your deck heights via TDC on No1 and No6 and write it on the deck you want to up your comp a little without having valve to piston issues so 10 - 20" is sufficient $60 and dont waste your money on a chemical clean before sending your block off High pressure clean it inside out removing all welsh plugs and once again when you receive it.. New welsh plugs $40 can of VHT engine enamel $14 <just to make it look pretty

Cheapest way is billet pump gears $370 intune, spool rebuild kit $1900 (shop around) Atomic H/D chain $165 Atomic billet chain bolt $39 Atomic billet crank sprocket $80 dont waste your money on a torque hone basic bore/hone $100 balance (optional) $300 NA engines are around $200 at the moment from Franks Auto Parts all cams are the same get a basic head service $350 and get them to fit a set of Performance springs while their at it ARP head bolts with 1mm head gasket $299. Your motors good for 550RWKW. Use your intake/exhaust manifolds just file flat the return provision on the mid sump and tap 2x M8 bolt holes before assembly. If anyone knows a cheaper way let me know as Im building 1 for a mate.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/44034-zf-6hp26-teardown.htmlAlmost identical... Give you an idea what your in for.

E85 from what Iv been told chews about 26% more than 98... I know from experience that methanol chews around 30% more. But some how it gives 80% more sh*ts and giggles. Damn $1.30pl for methanol is a joke?? I remember when 91 first hit the $1 mark methanol was 60c pl and AV gas was 90c pl.. Wish I was born in the 50s banged my way through the 60s owned a muscle car in the 70s still owned that muscle car in the 80s 90s... There was once a upon a time when motor racing was dangerous and sex was safe

All I can say is you guys with sedans are lucky with having so many combinations and options to go with coolers. If I had a choice Id be going with whoever is making the best cooler that doesn't require cutting into structural components of your vehicle. Its not as if your competing and getting paid to race. Just my 2 cents worth.

Mate it depends where abouts you live? If you have a problem with the box you want someone local to go to. If there is no1 local that makes input shafts or what not maybe give CMS a call and purchase his parts and go to a taxi workshop (no Im not joking they do 6 speeds ALL day long 2hrs drive in drive out rebuilt) and get them to pull box out rebuild with your parts and install. Maybe CMS or wherever your going to buy your shafts might give you a base tune. that's if your strapped for cash... I think that's a minimum for your power. Nothing worse than being a dyno princess

Just a heads up, who ever is building your box has to be the one to tune it and pretty much install it... Otherwise there is going to be a sh*t fight between all involved and you'll be the looser in the end. Iv researched this thoroughly and it seems ALL the advertisers on here plus who ever is building/modding boxes out there are all competing with each other and through Herrod they can blow your box... When I rang monster torque I was told that "we ppl in Sydney" dont know how to put oil in our gear boxes and blow em up... yup true story. Nizpro said because Joe from CMS will be tuning the car we wont give warranty because Joe hasn't done a Nizpro tuning course and on and on it went. I just had xedy clutches Input and intermediate shafts and a planetary done and the car is a bit rough but settling down which is normal. Once settled they get tuned. And yeah you need them tuned because they shift like retards stock or done up. By the way I went with Joe from CMS he was the only guy who didnt whinge whine and bitch about all the other box builders and I had the privilege of seeing every part that went into it. Honest clean work.

Iv got air bags in my pillars???

Meh... shes got an oil light and its not as if I can adjust the boost so I thought whats the point?? Aint going to make her go any faster

I tried 6 months ago had no luck either

that's what I was wondering

Some1 here will email you 1 Im sure... The one I have is useless

I think.. and I could be completely wrong but they are called a Morse chain. Links removed will be very difficult unless you have a special tool. I think CBC bearings make/stock these chains