Dez72

They are very tight and hard to get to. The one closest to firewall is possible to get to from under the turbo with a couple of extensions, I used a kincrome bolt remover and a piece of pipe, as normal sockets rounded off. They were so tight that I thought the studs snapped when they let go. Everyone said to leave the k frame off once removed it does bugger all and makes the turbo a bitch to get off.

I hope mines ok...just fitted a 7 psi turbosmart. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

As the factory mesh screen is a pita to get to as its inside the oil pressure switch in the side of the block, it's common practice to remove it and go with an inline filter. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Will I need to get another tune done if I upgrade the exhaust or intercooler?

Fair enough. Looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and get a tune done.

I rung L.K motors, $100 to check the afr's. If anything needs tweaking then a full tune will need to be done $850. Surely there's a cheaper way to change the afr's?

Ok cheers for that. I'll give LK a go. I actually bought the car from Mackay a few months ago. It's a long way for a car let alone just for a tune. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Will do in regards to the dyno. I think there's only 2 dynos in Cairns so not much choice. Yeah, where are all the Cairns boys? There's a few T's up here so they're hiding somewhere. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Sweet, that'd be awesome. What's the alloy replacement worth? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

I don't have any on my BA, except for 1 on the wastegate side due to loose hose on Turbosmart actuator. I've got a question regarding a flat spot. My 03 BA has a huge initial flat spot. Whenever I plant the foot, there's a 1.5 - 2 second delay before the desired effect. This occurs from a standing start as well as whilst in motion. I've changed the coil packs and spark plugs and installed a new actuator. I know I should get a tune, but $990 seems a bit steep to just check the air/fuel ratio. One other question, the solid pipe that runs from the turbo to the crossover seems about a cm too short. I've got to have everything just holding on for it to fit. Is there anyway to get a replacement that's a tad longer? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

If they need a gasket why don't they fit one from the factory?

I tried everywhere in Cairns. Boltmasters, NQ Fasteners, muffler centres, Bursons, Repco, Autobarn, engine rebuilders etc. The only place that had the same studs (offset thread) was Ford.... $10 bucks each.

Ok then, I'd prefer to leave the thing off anyway. Cheers for all the advice. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Really? It seems like a fairly solid brace. I managed to get the turbo off. Had to remove the four (3 in my case) turbo to manifold studs and slide out past the H brace. There is room under the turbo to get to the bottom bolt, but theres the engine mount bolt and heat shield in the way. At least it's finally off, hoping there's a bolt place open tomorrow to get new studs/nuts and I can start to rebuild. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

I am trying to take the whole lot off as one piece. (from the Ford workshop manual) 10. Disconnect the exhaust catalyst pipe from the dump-pipe. 1. Replace if damaged.11. Disconnect the turbocharger from the H-Brace. 1. Remove and discard the two lower turbocharger nuts to disconnect the H-Brace. 12. Remove the remaining exhaust manifold retaining bolts from the engine. 13. Remove the exhaust manifold, turbocharger and dump-pipe as a complete assembly.

Yep, that's correct. I've tried one of those double ended rings, Normally they're awesome but I've had a couple of nuts round from them lately. I was hoping to find something like this with 6 point.

It's the one closest to the firewall and its slightly rounded. I can get a socket onto it but can't connect anything onto it.

That's the first bit of negative feedback I've heard regarding Metrinch. I ended up getting some Kincrome bolt extractors which work well however I can't get on to the left hand H frame bolt. The one sitting in the engine mount. There's just not enough room. Any ideas on what I can use to get the bugger out?

Cheers for that. I just bought a set of Kincrome combination ring spanners thinking they would be adequate. I wish I'd learnt about Metrinch sooner.

Hey, sorry to hijack this thread. I found 1 missing on my BA whilst attempting to fit a new wastegate actuator, apparently it's quite common. Anyone have an idea on the size of the stud? It's the lower left one. Also, I'm having trouble getting the two lower H frame bolts undone. They're so bloody tight, Using a ring or a socket doesn't seem to make a difference, they both feel like they're rounding the heads. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Oh and that bottom right stud is a *beep* of a spot.

I just bought a set of genuine plugs from Ford, and they have a "g" on them.

I recently purchased an after market hose from Pinks power steering and had the same issue. After taking the car in the guy said to just bend the metal piping so that it's not interfering with the turbo hose. I haven't done it yet, I'm a little worried about damaging something in the process. I'm surprised that the aftermarket hoses aren't made to clear the turbo intake like the original. Surely it's not hard to achieve? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Cheers Barnz, Yeah I know what you mean....every speck of dust and fingerprint sticks out like the proverbial dogs balls. I like the colour though despite the extra work. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

Bought a 2003 BA XR6T and couldn't be happier. She drives beautifully, is extremely comfortable and looks great. First on the list of jobs is an Earls oil line and pwr auto trans cooler. Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

The Ford dealers don't use a vernier caliper, they have a Jig to measure the correct distance. Personally I think that adjusting to feel works fine. Adjust until you feel resistance then back off slightly. Follow this with the adjustment at the handbrake.