boost69

Could the problem be related to the throttle body?...Maybe give it a clean?

Holding gear, after taking your foot off the accelerator abruptly while giving it a boot full is normal. It will ususally do it more while in sport mode, but a gentle press on the accelrator will usually make the the box slect a higher gear, then it will drive normally. I think it holds gear not only for braking, but for better response, as in if you're taking a bend it will hold gear in anticipation of braking, and also in anticipation that you will be accelerating out of the corner...

So it backfires when you give it WOT?...if the car has a generic tune to get the boost up, then you difinitely need to throw it on a dyno.

Like I said im no expert, and I am basing my opinion on my personal experience, but as long as the gearbox wasn't abused I don't think you will have a problem. Though for piece of mind you definately have to get rid of the stock standard heat exhchanger, as it is literally a walking time bomb. Like I said I dropped the oil at around 180,000kms and really had not issue with box, but was always concerend about the milk shake issue. Definatley get the stand alone cooler, can't stress that enough.

Yeah first service I did on the transmission was when I put the oil cooler on, so at 180,000KM. (so you need to ask specifically if the tranny was serviced) Put the cooler on and changed the tranny oil at the same time, and fitted a steel pan. Like I said my BF was an ex highway patrol car so admitedly it's had a hard life, but I think these cars are quite reliable in stock standard form and can handle alot of punishment. The cooler I bought for around $130 from Rocket Industries here in Sydney, and the braided lines and fittings I bought from Earls in Silverwater...the fittings and a couple of meters of braided line cost me over $350 from memory(which was steep)...as I went with really good olive clamp style fittings which shouldn't leak...you could get cheaper fittings and lines, its up to you. Chances are that the car you're looking at is an ex highway patrol with that many kms on it.

I still have my BF Mark II XR6T,(palmed it off to the old man) and that is approaching 200,000kms...I have always changed oil at 10,000KMS max, and always used synthetic oil. (car is stock). Just get rid of the heat exchanger and put a stand alone cooler (I did this at around 180,000kms, used a B&M cooler with braided lines and Earls fittings). Assuming its not presently in a milkshake condition) If the car is stock it should still be quite strong...obvsiously diff bushes need to be looked at...but turbo should be ok if oil was changed regularly...

I threw all these questions at the rep as in, changing injectors, boosting etc...lol...drove them nuts...and was told the only condition is that the vehicle needs to be street legal, and that as long as the modifications don't cause the vehicle to be defective, the insurance is valid. I just need more convincing, because I know that the average clerk in the branch, might not be giving me the most accurate information. So is it definate that injectors and a tune will fail EPA standards, hence causing the car to be defective?

Guys, I just went to get a quote for full comprehensive isurance with NRMA, and was told appart from getting choice of repairer, you also get blanket cover for all modifications, as long as they are street legal. You don't need to notify them of the mods, but the only proviso is that they are RMS legal.(street legal). Anyone had any exprience with this, or had their car denied because of mods? Is it safe to assume that a tune and injectors is considered street legal?

Hi mate, maybe I used the wrong terminology, what I meant to say is that I just put the handbrake leaver down, which allowed the rear wheels to spin freely. Once you have done this, If you give them a bit of a nudge they should just pop off the threads. Other wise a couple of light taps on the side of the rotor with a rubber mallet should get them unstuck.

Spark plug gaps?

Not saying its relavent, but I would still double check your battery, and battery contact areas. If your alternator is not charging your battery, then your new battery will lose charge very quickly while you drive. You possibly might get an hours drive out of it, before things start playing up. Though if the voltage does decrease as you drive, you will notice other tell tale signs, such as your radio swtiching off, you will also notice your ZF will stop shifting gears. Its at that point time the cars just stalls...

I agree FG...

Would loose turbo manifild bolts give rise to a lean code? Had the engine light come on my BF once, and was told the code was related to a lean condition. Apparently Ford said loose turbo bolts was the cause of the lean condition.

Yeah just bight the bullet and remove the airbox...the short cut will probabaly cost you more time, and leave you with scratches all over your fingers for your troubles...

If the pads are still new, it might take a bit of time for them to start making proper even contact. Though if your wheel nuts were loose, that could have meant your rotor was contacting the pad unevenly as you were driving. Was the "woosh woosh" stopping when you were applying the brakes?

LOL...Yeah the mythical cop chip, siren would have definately added 50RWKs minimum...though doesn't the SS produce similar power to the FG on the flywheel? Seems like a considerable difference at the wheels between the two cars...

Guys, Just thought I would share the video, numbers seem quite low for an FG but they also put an SS on the dyno and that only managed 185RWK. FG SS

Yeah rears are as straight forward as the fronts, though what I did fid when I did mine on the BF is that the rotors wouldn't come off the studs. I had to undo the handbrake so the rear wheels would spin freely, then they just loosened off the studs... Though I have gone down the path of changing rotors to dba 4000 and using Bendix Ultimates allround, and like yourself I found that the shuddering always came back. Never really found a solution for it, even did the cleaning of the wheel hub thing...etc... My shufddering would always start off gradually after the rotors were replaced or machined, with a slight pulse in the peddle and then before you know it would progress to the steering wheel.

I have had a few cop cars, never really had a problem come up because it was a cop car. You just have to find one that's clean inside and out, from my experience I would say about 1 or 2 in 10 cars are in quite good condition and with decent kms. The current problem now is that the cops are keeping them longer, so it's harder to get one with decent kms...but if it's within the 3 years and under 100,000KM get the MyFord extended warranty. Currently have an FG, the only thing I did for piece of mind was to extend the manufacturers warranty, so I have an extra 3 years and 100,000km on top of the standard warranty. The one I have is the proper Ford Factory one. Car was serviced every 10,000KMS... I would definately buy another one, but you just need to be patient, to find a decent one. Otherwise you can buy one in poor to very average condition really cheap, I have seen high KM FGs gor for 18K.

If your battery is not charging you should get 30 min out of a fully charged battery, (from my personal experience) but if your voltage drops too low, your tranny could stop shifting etc... This has happened on by BF, when I let the leaking power steering problem go on for too long...it destroyed the alternator...car started acting funny...as in the radio would turn itself off, and then before it pretty much stalled on me, the ZF tranny stopped shifting... Though I think the battery light might have come on, so if your not getting the battery light come on...it could be somthing else.

This happend to me...it's your battery...the computer on the FG apparently senses low battery voltage and disengages the air con compressor...this used to happen to me intemitently...changed battery and the problem is gone. (was told this by a Ford Dealer) This will be your problem if your air con works intemtitently...as in you might drive somewhere with the air con working no problem, then stop the car,then you restart it and the air con is not working. Also check your battery connections for sulfur build up etc... If your air con is just dead in the water and the problem is not intermittent...then it could be an air con relted problem.

Yeah my thermo fans stay on too, on the odd occasion after turning the car off. I believe this is normal on the FG.

If you can still get an FG with under 100,000KM, and still within the warranty period, for a good price, then you can extend the manufacturers warranty for another 100,000KMS and 3 years. Cost of this would be around the $1,900 mark, but if you got a good price on your FG due the higher KMS then it might work out OK. It will also give you peace of mind that if anything major does go, like the tranny or turbo...or diff bushes (these will go for sure), its covered.(all it takes is a couple of claims and the extended warranty has more than paid itself off) If your thinking about leaving the car stock standard this might be an option for you. In stock form the FG feels allot faster and refined than a BA/BF...(this is based on my experience of the two cars)

Yeah I have the shims on the FG and there is no rattle...they stick to the pad backing plate, so its easy to forget to put them on the new pad, and just throw them out with the old pad. Im not sure where you would get them though, but this will solve your rattling issue.

Yeah your right they might even do it for free...they are quite reasonable... If your have a reasobale excuse for wanting them to unlock it, they will do it free.