boost69

Just to keep everyone posted I got a quote from Ford for the pads; (They are actually a Brembo pad) Front Brembo (4 pot) $551.20 Rear $166.55 Anyone know where you can actually buy Brembo Pads...(not from Ford) I also got a quote for the Bendix SRT pads allround for same set up: $278 (front and back). Dont mind the Bendix pad, not too concerned about dust etc...but im concerned about the rotor wear, though from what I know good stopping power is proportional to rotor wear...

Anyone know what the standard factory pads are on the Brembo equiped cars, for that matter?...Are they PBR?

Ok thanks for the advice, I will suss them out. Out of curiosity anyone know what the NSW Police are using on their FG Highway XR6Ts? I know they were using Bendix Ultimates on the BF. Are they still using the Ultimates with the FG Brembo set up? Anyone know?

So having used both the Remsa and SRT pads you can vouch for the Remsa pads?

Guys, Im up for some new pads, and im not sure what to get. In the passed I have always used the Bendix Ultimates, as they offer very firm stopping power, but have been very harsh on the rotor. What are peoples experiences with the SRT pad?...Or the Ferodo DS pad? Cheers,

Guys, I noticed United Petroleum, is selling 100 octane fuel, is anyone using this fuel? Anyone know where this fuel comes from?...as in, is it Caltex or Shell etc...

Ok that sounds good...I actually had my car on a hoist and the mechanic looked at every conceivable positon bar behind the intercooler...lol...im glad you guys told me I can fit one there, because that means I can just slot in a plain old no nonsense one as mentioned. Thanks guys appreciate the input.

Guys, Im planning on getting my ZF transmission serviced and also getting an oil cooler installed. I have looked under the "tranny cooler install" thread for some information which has been quite hepful but require some specific advice. My car is totally stock, and I was thinking of placing the cooler behind the bumper under one of the wheel archers, but because the air flow might be restricted I was thinking of getting a cooler with a fan on it.(holes will be drilled for air to flow through in the wheel arch) The dimensions of the cooler im thinking of installing are (305mm x 343mm x 89mm). (photo attached) Can anyone that has fitted a cooler advise on wether there is enough room to fit this thing in the wheel arch? Any advise is appreciated as I am uncertain as to what size, or position is optimal, and whether I even need one with a fan. I do allot of peak hour traffic driving which is another reason im thinking about a cooler with a fan.(not much air flow happening when you're standing still) Thanks Guys

Guys, I'm in ther market for some engine mounts also, and was just contemplating whether I should get genuine turbo ones or aftermarket. I have already replaced the the turbo side engine mount quite some time ago with a genuine turbo mount which cost and arm and a leg, and I have been told it needs replacing again. The genuine turbo mount not lasting as long as it should have for a stock car has turned me off buying genuine again. Should I just buy non turbo mounts and put the straps on them?(im assuming they are considerably cheaper)...or is there an aftermarket brand that someone has used that they can recommend? Any help is appreciated. Cheers

I have heard you can actually cause damage by opening the butterfly with your hand, and that it's best to either get a friend to actually depress the accelarator pedal, or disconnect the battery...can anyone confirm this?...

Guys, Did the reset of the computer, and made no change to the problem... Looks like im going down the path of a coil pack... bionic_oosty...are you able to tell me the dealer you bought the coil packs off?...im assuming you're in Sydney? Only if it's not going to cause you any trouble that is...

The mounts are fluid filled...if revs are going up and down then it wouldn't be your mounts...if its a BA it coud be your TPS.

BigAL's04,I cleaned the throttle body when I took off the inlet pipes when I changed the plugs, as like yourself I thought lets start off with the basic possible causes of the problem first. Regarding fuel filter, that has been changed, although not all that recently...I suppose there is no harm in changing it again... Thanks for the input guys.

It could be your turbo side engine mount...I have had a similar problem...they tend to leak after a while due to the heat off the turbo...simple check would be to accelarate and apply brake at the same time and check to see if the engine lifts excessively...do it in both drive and reverse...(and try not kill anyone including yourself...)

Thanks for the input guys...bionic_oosty let me know how you go with the coils. As the change of plugs had zero effect on the problem for me... I will take up bionicxr6t05s advice and try a computer reset in the meantime... Im sort at a loss as in what it could be...

Guys, I changed plugs, checked the whole turbo to throttle body path and found no leaks, also checked vacum hoses coming off the manifold and found nothing obvious...(even changed the PCV) I hooked up a boost gauge and the vacum readings are quite constant, maximum boost is around 5psi (car is stock standard). This problem with the rough idling (revs do not fluctuate), seems to have come on with the colder weather we are having lately in Sydney. The car settles down when it reaches normal operating temperature, and has not thrown any codes, and there is no splutter or backfiring under hard acceleration. Anyone had a similar experience that can assist me?