Peppy_t92

? Not sure Trana, I use tapatalk on my iPhone and just pick from my gallery?

That could also work, I just thought that surely there was weaker points in the cooling system then that plug... Are you talking about an oil drain or water skids?

The machine shop sourced them, it comes in a kit with the gasket and rings ($500 odd + $180 odd for machining)... I have faith in it working.. We contemplated removing the exhaust side, but more so for the flow side of it, I had no idea about the detonation side of things.. But we instead decided to give it a small 45* chamfer.. Yep that was part of yesterday's jobs, going over the entire oiling system, from the pickup to the returns, it's actually pretty well designed and looks adequate, but every hole was chamfered and checked for alignment.. I wouldn't mind seeing if I can get a new oil pump regulator spring, otherwise we will just put a 0.1" shim in to give it that little bit extra... I smoothed out every possible spot with sand paper on the die grinder in the oil pump.. And also removed the stock aluminium plugs that are crimped into the head after drilling the oil gallies in the head and tapped some NPT plugs in

Not that I'm aware of.. But from memory when I measured the I.D's of all the fittings the ethanol sensor was about 8.8mm with the -8 Teflon hose being around 9.1mm.. The smallest part of my system is the fittings that screw into the KPM module, being 1/4 NPT was about 7.8mm I.d so I think the way I have set it up will be the most efficient for this system

They are 3/8 GM style fittings

Thanks for That eff xr6t, I was un-aware of this issue, I shall speak to Brad

Sorted out the fuel issue today, so naturally we added some extra Gas haha.. "private" road tuned but should definitely be over the 400rwkw mark, it's a different feeling then a 6t with the same power, it just loves to rev and loves to stretch its legs.. Got some pics too

Thanks for the input Joe, I'm not surprised that it is European "technology".. I assume that you have used this method before? How did/does it hold up?

Originally I was going to 0 deck the block (0.038" bellow @tdc), just shave the head and a 0.01" gasket, which is the most you would go if your thinking about bigger cams in the future... But now with the copper gasket its 0.04" so I took 0.04" off the block and 0.04" off the head to get me back to where I wanted, the comp is only going to be 9.0:1 the only way to get any more would be to go flat tops with valve reliefs cut out ... 0.04" off the head only brought the chamber volume down to 63cc.. Yea It is, I'm in two minds about speaking to brad and asking what the go is, or at least notifying him, they had to dill a 12mm hole and a 19mm hole pretty much next to each other, so there would be a few grams in it.. The brass is bang on 0.04 the gasket is 0.0395-0.04 so we're doing to seal around all the oil and water passages each side of the gasket, but no I don't think it will crush much at all.. The main advantage is to seal the combustion space, as said they are generally found in diesel motors which run much higher cylinder pressures, so hopefully it keeps everything in. Nope std size valves are being used

Should be plenty of volume then... I'm afraid I havnt done any research on pump voltage boosters and with the KPM setup you can't run the pumps individually so you can't run a triggered setup... I'll definitely keep an eye on this thread to see the outcome

Hmm interesting Hi PSI, I'm sorry I haven't ready your whole build thread, but are you running the std fuel lines? Rail and regulator? I believe fuel volume will play a part aswell, just because it has the correct pressure doesn't mean that it has sufficient volume supplied

Alright so we're moving forward, the head and motor are back... The head was milled, seats were cut and the valve guides were cut/drilled down.. Now it still has to be sent away for ceramic coating of the chamber, valves and exhaust ports, then it will be dummy assembled to measure the valve heights and valve lash then the valves may have to each be "tipped" (ground down) to achieve the same heights and lash, that will help with lifter pump up and keep everything efficient.. I cc'd the chamber and the ports to get some accurate cross sectional areas and compression ratio for my program. The motor was decked and everything else was balanced.. I opted for "fire rings" to be installed, it's diesel technology, a brass ring is inserted into a ring machined into the deck then a copper gasket is used, Everything balanced up fine, except one piston was 1.5g heavy and the Atomic ring gear was quite far out, You'll see a few extra holes drilled out Now time to prep the block, get rid of any sharp edges left from the machining, stone all the flat surfaces, check all the oil gallies, clean out the welsh plug holes and give it a wash... We have now decided to grout fill the block about half way up the welsh plugs, this will give the bores the strength they need to withstand it's punishment, and if done correctly it shouldn't effect cooling I'm still waiting for parts for the ZF, I have ordered the Nizpro stage 2 shaft, and their Street level billet alloy Pan, which will help with cooling and holds 2l extra oil, a set of exedy 1000hp clutches and a Sonnax Zip Kit for the valve body Enjoy

That was what we wanted to do but instead drilled numerous holes to measure the walls in different spots, Then made a mould to measure cross sectional areas etc

Done!! next year, I'm also liking the cage that's in jet066 subtle yet effective haha

Pretty much the biggest restriction is going to be the exhaust manifold and turbo, they will be choking the motor, so I've been having some silly thoughts the past couple days... Gtx42 or 45, custom manifold, set of cams and she will reach for the sky [emoji173]️

Hahaa your not wrong, it sounds real tinny if you knock it now haha, but all the spots that I touched were solid and have tried not to touch any of the actual walls... Hahaa if you were paying for labour it would probably be cheaper to buy a plaz or PW top half.. But if I were to do it again without stopping and testing every change it would probably take a good 6-8hrs (manifold), I obviously cut as much as I could with my reciprocating saw, then used the die grinder from there.. If I were to do the head again it would probably be around the 10hr mark including polishing the chamber and exhaust ports I'm not sure if I'll post much info on the ZF could be a touchy subject and I'm prepared for it to blow for the purposes of R&D haha all the info I have found is fairly easy to find, so I can point you in the direction I went if you want to PM me at some stage [emoji106] Thanks Captain, just trying to give some info back to the forum, and maybe give some other DIYers some pointers Haha they are -8 Teflon hose wrapped in stainless steel obviously and cost a pretty penny, so hopefully it balances out nicely Keith Well that's what I thought but Andrew from Technico seems to be confident they will be alright "800hp is a fair whack of power, but im confident that the parts can handle it. We have several guys pushing similar numbers through the engine mounts with no issues, the couplers are fairly new so im not too sure what the max hp that's been pushed through them yet but they are just as well engineered as the engine mounts so I strongly doubt that you'll have any issues. We also do a solid billet "converter" to move away from the coupling style altogether and run 1350 style unis instead should the poly couplings not hold up to your abuse but I dont think that will be necessary. We would definitely welcome your feedback on how the poly ones cope with your extreme application" "Id recommend the V series rubber bushed ones for street applications as they are extremely smooth. The P series with poly bushes are a more hardcore mount, and you will notice a bit more NVH. We have a customer running 800rwkw through the V series with no problems at all so both are equally upto the abuse." Lol it already has suprerpro "sport" blade bushes and rear diff bush and "comfort" side diff bushes... The car is definitely going to get driven regularly and I'm actually hoping it will be aggressive haha so if there's abit of NVH I'm not stressed...

I also got some Technico racing engine mounts and their ZF/Tailshaft coupling... Look like real good bits of gear and he's a top bloke to deal with

Hey Guys, to say I've been busy is an understatement haha, unfortunately getting abit carried away so not to many pictures to share, but basically the porting side of the head is finished and I took it to a friend of ours to have it milled and the seats cut.. The block, crank, rods, pistons, balancer and flexplate are back at the other machine shop for balancing, and I have decide to go for the Fire Ring setup on the Deck, so I'm excited to get that back, hopefully this week.. Once everything is back I'll be sending the Pistons, head and valves to get ceramic coated... I'll be getting the crowns of the Pistons done as well as the chamber, valves and exhaust ports.. My std exhaust manifold and rear turbo housing are already done and I will be getting the dump pipe done once everything's back together as I need to weld an extra bung on it for my 02 sensor for tuning purposes.. We're 95% done on the intake manifold with extremely exciting results, it's actually flowing about 24% better then it initially did, with each runner flowing within 1% and is flowing better then the head, so it's good to see all our hard work paying off... It's actually at a stage where the top half of the manifold has no effect on the bottom half, so from the top half being the biggest restriction, to having zero restriction... So dad was right yet again and it's a bonus that it still looks standard and I don't have to change any piping.. Std (Google, coz I forgot to take a shot) Most std picture I took the bulk of it has been done, there's just some cleaning up to do then it will be all good.. We've looked at everything all the way up to the boost pipes and it all seems alright, there's some spots to clean up on the TB relocation but other then that we have to draw the line somewhere haha... I also quickly cleaned up the bell mouth of the Niz dump as I wasn't overly happy with it If you've followed from the beginning you'll know that I am running the KPM twin Intank system which I put my own Walbro 460 pumps in before it was released by Dave, it's obviously overkill but I'm running with it... I always had high fuel pressure issues so I got a Holley -10 reg, and some Teflon -8 feed and return, so now the smallest spot in the system is inside the fuel module... I'm quite happy with how it all turned out and it was quite easy to fit, so the fuel system should now be well up to the task, I will be lowering the base fuel pressure and doing some tests to see where it likes it with the KPM1500cc injectors Once the motor is in I'll finish off the rest and I have some heat shield that should also help with keeping the fuel cool, which is overlooked by many people and I got two -12 fittings welded onto the rocker cover, I'll work out a breather tank once everything's back together Ohh and I've decided to take the plunge and to the box myself... Been doing a lot of research and have come to a conclusion of the main parts that I'll be using and have the repair manual and some forum posts as a guide, so I'll keep use updated as that comes apart and goes together Thanks for reading Joe

I'm assuming you adjusted the usual torque management parameters, did you touch the box at all?

Nice write up Bellend, I tell people exactly this on a weekly basis, yet there are always those facebook warriors that seem to know everything because their brothers sisters boyfriends cousin who is a well known tuner said so.. I'm gonna go down this path with a friends car in the near future and I'm confident I can achieve similar results to back up my theories just as you have [emoji108]

Hey man, sounds like you've done your research, and should all come together well... IMO stick to genuine coils, and the turbo dues is not really needed if your getting a custom tune, the factory boost control will be sufficient.. All the best Joe

The only oversize valves I know of are Supertech and it comes as a complete kit only, with 1mm over intake and exhaust valves, 90lb seat pressure springs, titanium locks and retainers, which they don't split up... Plus it makes it hard not having machines readily available to bore and cut the seats etc, so it's not a 2minute job.. I'm happy to stick with this at the moment, and do up another head when I build my de-stroked 1000+hp motor haha (2weeks) Yea it's pretty much same same, the plenum is filled with boost then rushes into the necessary port, rather then trying to harness the pressure waves as in an NA.. only thing is you should pay more attention to the exhaust side obviously to get all that extra gas out!... Thanks mate, I'm trying... Dad is the mastermind behind it I'm just trying to keep up and document as much as I can, he never had much to do with these motors so it's a big learning curve for him also, but it still gives an inside look at how a machine shop or proper performance shop will look at it because we're not your exactly typical backyard mechanics haha... In saying that, this is just my take on it, it's not meant to be a "how to guide" haha, happy to give back to the community where I can

Yes and no Captain, generally speaking a bigger volume port will be better, but the intake runners will be the governing factor, there's no point having a big port with a small intake runner, otherwise the air speed will slow dramatically as it enters the head, where as keep everything consistent with a taper on the entrance of the intake runner you will create the ram effect as you said... So we have worked out the the cross sectional area of the intake manifold runners and kept everything at 2.65".... So it goes from the plenum to an opening of 6.2" tapering down to 2.65" all the way to the valves... I did think about it but had already bought the Ferrea valves and locks to suit ($900)... So I'll definitely do that in the next one haha

No we didn't captain, but I still can.. It will once I'm finished with it gaz,

Yea Tranna That's all the opening and closing events and lifts at certain degrees.. Really? I'm assuming they have it made right, we will soon see