Peppy_t92

All good, you had me questioning myself, I guess that's what this forum is all about [emoji108]... But yea by the time it gets line bored we should end up around the 0.0025"-0.0027" all round on the mains... But I can't remember what we set the conrods at, I'll have to look at my notes, but it was smaller then 0.0025"

correct 62ftlb = 85nm Arp 90ftlb = 122nm And std main bearing clearance is between 0.025mm-0.04mm which is 0.00098"-0.00157

No I don't, I'm guessing it just provides more support? Much machining involved in putting it in? I'll speak to the machinist about it.. There were no major marking on the main bearings when we stripped it, the Conrod bearings were smashed but mains were fine... I'll get some pics tonight.. That was our first thought Tranna #2 and #7 seemed to be touching opposite sides of the holes where the rest were centred, so we opened up the holes on the girdle slightly and didn't change anything, and the holes on the underside aren't effecting anything... Factory main bearing clearance is 0.001-0.0015" the clearance on mine when they came out were all around 0.004" (130000km)... We decided to get it ground to mid size, to end up with a clearance of 0.0025"... If we got it done to say 0.004 we probably wouldn't be having an issue right now.. And yea he will be machining the tops and bottoms of the caps to ensure their sitting true then line bore it..

Your not wrong skids, we only measured the first journal and tunnel, which came up within 0.0005 so we weren't stressed and 'Assumed' the rest would be alright... We trial fitted and torqued the main caps by themselves and it was fine then with the girdle, it became a little tighter once the girdle went on, but decided at the time it would be alright and left it at that, so it's been playing on my mind since then.. But at the same time, it's not hard to turn, it's just tigger then we would of hoped... We've come this far doing everything to make it more efficient so I'm not going to stop now

So, back peddling abit, while going over everything for the final torque obviously the crank is getting harder and harder to turn, but it was a little hard for comfort.. Now obviously we test fitted everything earlier on in the build, but this is the first time with everything at full torque including rods, piston rings etc.. We decided to investigate further, this required the whole bottom end to come apart again.. We found that most of the bearings have been marked/polished on the back edge Went on to measure each tunnel and journal.. The journals are perfect to what we wanted them machined to, but the tunnel seemed to be slightly elongated, with there being 0.001" difference between horizontal measurements and vertical, then 0.0015" with the bearings installed, so with an already tight clearance then once fully torqued and squashing more, there's sweet feck all clearance, causing the marked bearings, and slightly tight crank... Std main cap torque is 62ftlb and ARP is 90ftlb, this is quite possibly causing the 0.001" discrepancy... So it's going back for tunnel/line boring.. Should of listened to that Bellend bloke??? I also looked into the Oil pump situation, Ford have the same part# throughout BA-FG, the parts guy, said generally if it's altered then they will have a new listing, but it's possible that the new design has just superseded the original, do you have any pictures Skids??

Fifty one is right about the weapon x coils, they have recently worked out how to make proper use of them, but they require some changes in the tune.. If your looking for longevity, stock plugs and coils are the best combo.. The cheaper copper plugs work just as well but require changing more frequently... In saying all this, if you already have a pipe and intake why not make use of it with a custom tune? You won't be disappointed

Also, for future reference, a Complete STD Piston, Rod, Pin and rings weighs 1233g and the new Mahle and Manley combo, complete with rings and Pin weighs 1172g... But the stock flexplate weighs in around 2268g and the Attomic weighs 5150g!!! And I also sprayed my Rocker cover just using Supercheap Auto colour matched Spray can, same colour as the car, I'm not to stressed what It looks like tbh, but it came out alright

I wasn't aware that there were any differences Skids, so no I've just used my std housing with Fabre Gears, ($660 I think I got ripped).. I see what you mean Tranna, we checked that they line up and they do, and obviously chamfered the hole but did not elongate it as you have mentioned, it's all together now so it's something to keep in mind for next time I guess, there's a few things I would do differently if I do it again.. KPM1500's arrived, with data haha I've never had data to go off so I'm excited to see how they go

Okay, so it has been a busy week... We let the block fill set for a couple of days while washing and preparing everything else... Even after 24 hours the full in the bag wash rock solid Looking into where the water pump is mounted, Looking into the top of one of the water jackets The passage we formed up with clay turned out good, it should help the water circulate without too much extra strain, we'll soon find out.. Cleaning is one of the most important parts when assembling anything, you have to be strict and don't be surprised if you end up washing something 4-5 times.. I lightly rubbed the Ceramic coated parts with scotch bright... They look very pretty now! Haha Now it's time to finish off the block, so go over everything, get rid of the excess splatter on the side walls of the water jackets from when we poured the filler, smoothen all the oil returns with the die grinder and basically just check if we have overlooked anything.. Then wash it, run a stone on any flat surface or sharp edge, get into every oil and water passage then give it a soapy bath, and blow dry with air while spraying it with WD40.. Also wash the crank, main caps, bearings, stids, girdle, windage tray... And once their washed keep them covered until assembly then wipe again before you use them.. It should all come together by the end of the week, I still trying not to rush, but powerplay is coming!! Thanks, Joe

Yea I have already spoken to him about it just waiting to hear back from Kenne bell.. The clay will easily just come back out through the water pump opening

Alright so after discussing with dad and the ceramic coater im happy to live with the 0.2hp loss on each cylinder form the little parts of the chamber that didn't get coated, but definitely a reminder for next time This afternoon consisted of filling the block, what a long and painful process, I moulded the water pump area with clay, creating a passage to the level we decided to fill it to (67mm bellow deck, 3/4 up on the welsh plugs) I believe the area behind the pump is quite important in the water flow through the block... It was hard to get photos, but you get the jist of it, The instructions say 1-1.2l of water per 12lb bag, there's no way that was going to fit into the water jackets, so we added water to get a nicer texture, then started to fill each hole little by little, with me smacking the block for half an hour with a soft hammer, safe to say that it got through to every nook and cranny haha.. before after It barley even took half a bag, so possibly about 1.5-2l worth, which I'm happy with but only time will tell how it goes in the cooling department.. It is a street car after all When cleaning up I remembered reading that they actually add cast iron shavings to the mix, well they sure do, that was just sticking the magnet into the bucket while cleaning up., I also noticed it was actually sticking to the walls of the bucket, so it's a type of concrete, glue, cast iron mix... I put the leftover in a plastic bag, so it will be interesting to see how it sets Input shaft is on its way, and just waiting for the Alloy pan to be made, then the last big purchase is the injectors... The time and money this project is taking is starting to get to me, I'm a stress head so I'm trying to keep my goals clear to myself and stay positive... I just can't wait to see all our hard work come to life... Haha but even then I still have the task of tuning it and learning the beauty of the ZF calibration... Then the tail shaft, diff, cv's are pretty much the last untouched parts, and surely they won't last long... I guess I'm realising how big of a commitment something like this is, physically, mentally and financially, so my respect goes out to anyone else that has done it Thanks Joe Ohh and I'm looking into a spark booster, I like the Kenne bell Boost A Spark, but still waiting for some reply's, Herrod are the only ones that have gotten back to me

Thanks guys, the coating isn't very think at all, it's between 0.001-0.0015" It looks thicker at the moment, but it still needs to be rubbed back

My combo of std cams and the 35/82 will peak power around 5500rpm so no need to rev it much more then that.. I made a custom wastegate spring, it cracks at around 15psi but doesn't open much more after that, it's going to be trial and error on that one... So I got my stuff back from ceramic coating, happy with how it turned out, but a little annoyed at myself for overlooking a rather big thing, I should of given him a head gasket aswell so he could coat the whole chamber, see pics bellow... And I was that excited when I picked it up that I didn't even pick up on it while I was there, so I'll have to call him tomorrow, see if he can just add onto it or he has to sand blast it and start again [emoji21] It's not exactly pretty haha, but it still has to be cleaned and rubbed with scotch bright, so it will come up smoother.. Also torqued up the main caps with the girdle and sump as well as the head studs then levelled up the block ready for the block fill tomorrow, I measured the lowest part of the water jackets to be 117mm bellow deck, and it's pretty even all around, half way on the welsh plugs is 67mm bellow deck and that's where we are going to fill it too, that should add sufficient support to the walls Thanks, Joe

Whatever I can turn out of the 35/82, hopefully around the 26-27psi mark

I'm yet to decide, there's lots that can go wrong, so I might wait till I actually see it working

I'm yet to decide, there's lots that can go wrong, so I might wait till I actually see it working

Haha it is the only top half I have

Not bad at all, I'm deciding whether I'm going to try out the new weapon x coils or hold out and get a spark booster http://www.taipanmotorsport.com.au/sct-tune-upgrades Anyway I got some more goodies today Just waiting on the Niz input shaft and pan

Yep, pretty sure I have recipt for that one, happy to find it and post it up when I get a chance lol... Was that from A ford dealer? I have since found that AFI (Australian Fuel Injection) do re-packaged genuine ford ones for around $240 aswell

I should add that it's not always cheaper doing things yourself, their are lots of specialty tools required which I already had or had to buy.. It all adds up aswell... But for me it's the experience that I do it for

Thanks Captain, I'm sharing all this information to help others like myself, and to show that it's possible, so it makes me feel good when people appreciate what I'm doing [emoji108] Ahh nice, coupe or 4 door? My neighbour just finished doing a full resto on his XB 4 door GT and it's beautiful.. I don't think I'm on AFF but I'll definitely have to check it out Alright, now I'm going to share my list, I have kept track of all the modifications I have done, in order of when they got done, most prices are rounded to the closest $10 and from memory they are pretty accurate, a lot of stuff especially for the engine are trade prices through dads contacts and my own.. I already know the final figure, so calculate it for yourself but please DONT post it up [emoji106].. I never dreamed that I would spend this kind of money on it, if I did I probably would of stayed at 350ish rwkw, fun reliable, and still chop most cars around.. Yes there are cheaper parts around, if it seems expensive it's probably because I needed it urgently.. Everything I bought was brand new except the fuel tank, fuel rail and my old fuel reg... Most questions you may have about what I did and why should be answered in my first couple of posts in this thread, so go back and have a read before asking Enjoy $608 DBA T3 rotors and Bendix ultimate pads $468 Innovate motorsports oil pressure, LC1 AFR, boost gauges $145 3 gauge holder $795 X3 + generic tune $219 Walbro 400 $380 E-Boost street $230 generic email tune $330 injectors $2300 PW 2.2 cooler + hot side $205 Turbosmart BOV $180 turbosmart 12psi IWG $1045 full x-force exhaust $733 PWR heat exchanger $1040 GT 335 replica wheels (eBay Special) $260 king springs $340 genuine coils $1500 gtx supercore $80 wastegate flap $99 turbo oil feed $398 valve springs/retainers crow race kit $1100 PW battery relocation/Race airbox $250 ceramic coating dump, turbo housing, ex manifold $400 x-spurt 1000cc injectors (new but bought off a friend) $200 034motorsport fuel regulator and gauge $250 whiteline front swaybar $650 Superpro bushes (complete) $500 flex Fuel sensor kit $2000 Brembos $910 rotors/fluid/pads $250 braided brake lines $260 catch can $1435 KPM fuel module $150 FG fuel tank (wreckers) $950 Koni Adjustable shocks $300 Walbro 460 pumps $300 PW fuel rail Reg (2nd hand) $150 fuel lines and fittings $400 FG manifold Manley Rods $750 Mahle Pistons $1050 Engine Bearings $350 Studs $570 Oil pump gears $660 Underdrive $350 Girdle $413 Valves $730 Valve locks $150 Gasket kit $320 Timing chain/guide/lifters (Nason) $290 nitride crank, power hone, grind crank $840 Niz Exhaust $1800 Coolant res/welsh plugs/water pump $150 Sonax Zip Kit (Gbox) $235 Atomic Flex plate $550 Fuel lines/fittings $500 Holley Fuel reg, gauge $235 machining/balancing/gasket/cut seats $1290 Engine mounts/ tail shaft coupling $550 Hard Block fill $150 Still to pay for, (educated guess, pricing for budget purposes) Ceramic Coating $870 Gearbox Input shaft $2000 Alloy Gbox pan $850 Clutches $900 Rebuild kit $300 KPM 1500cc $900 Thermostat $20 Battery$200 Coolant $30 Engine run in oil $100

I've got nothing to hide haha, and if I had known the real costs beforehand I may have done things differently, so hopefully it can help others make decisions differently.. Luckily I have kept track of everything Definitely sticking with the stock pcm

I might put up abit of a list of what everything has cost me at the end, anyone keen to see that?

Yep, piston tops, chambers, all valves, and exhaust ports ($870 worth) Exhaust manifold, rear turbo housing are already done and I'll do the new dump pipe once I fit it as I have to drill and weld on a bung for my AFR meter

Yea I'm with you, well that picture was taken before we cleaned up all of the sharp edges... I looked at the head when I got in my car after work, because I was taking it to the ceramic coaters, and dad had given that edge a little more chamfer then the others, not quite 2mm but enough to stop it glowing.. plus the ceramic coating guy said the coating I'm getting done will reduce the chances of any Pre-ignition drastically