Peppy_t92

Yea your pretty useful Bellend!! Yea I'd love too, but in all honesty the coins are running low, and I still need to build the box! Haha I warn people not to take anything like this on unless you have a spare 15-20k growing on a tree out the back or something, I wish I listened to people when they told me that! I'm approaching the 10k mark with probably another 8 to go and the tailshaft back is all still stock! [emoji24] Pushing on anyway [emoji23] Appreciate it mate, I'm sure I'll have some more questions soon enough... I still have all that stuff for you when you get your MPVI

No I'm gonna stick with the stock upper half, I have just gutted it out so it's essentially just an open plenum, looks stock, and don't have to modify any of my boost pipes

Haha your not wrong nitro, that bottle is just so sexy haha, I wish I had a pic of the engine bay/solenoid setup, I'm pretty proud of it all tbh

Different temperatures change the pressure inside the bottle, which changes the amount of nitrous that flows through the solenoid which ends up effecting the air fuel ratio, so a bottle Warner keeps a consistent temp and there for pressure for a more consistent tune

Hey guys, it has been a pretty long two weeks working afternoons and over the weekend on the intake side of things... It was my plan to use the FG intake manifold but dad wasn't convinced that it would be the best option... We looked over the design of both my Bf one and the FG one, how they mated up to the head, if we could get into the runners to clean them up and how much meat was on them... While looking at that we also looked at the intake port on the head, dad went through some ideas and we decided to leave my head alone and test some different theories on the spare head again... Firstly did a flow test of the standard port, it flowed quite well, dad again compared it to a heavily ported VN head, it flowed a maximum of 158.7cfm@10"water or about 262cfm@28"water Its a mess, I'll neaten it up on a program I have and include some graphs when I get a chance We went off the basic theories that I spoke of in my last post, short side, roof, throat, guide boss, flow testing it along the way, we ended up with a massive port that took over 2hrs to port, lost flow down low and only gained 5 or so cfm up top... Confused we looked at it abit more thoroughly and used the pressure gauge to map out where the high pressure points were inside the port again, to find that instead of the airflow taking the general route of the short side up to the roof, it was actually coming from the far side of the valve through to the floor!! Obviously this is why we're spending the time to develop the port... Std port compared to the Big port So we still had 3 usable ports on the other head, slowly tried different things, to come to one that worked. There's not much info out there of what people have got out of these heads, Dinomite performance claim to have a CNC head $4895 complete with std valves flowing 295cfm@28" of water... This is very high compared to the Std port that I flowed (262cfm)... It's hard to compare two different flow benches it's like comparing dyno's, it also has a lot to do with setup, which dad has taught me to be absolutely critical, the head is leak tested each time it's put on the flow bench and we use a plastic bore the same size as the bore on our blocks and mark the head so it goes back in the exact same spot each time, to achieve accurate results... If you use a bigger bore then std you will get in-accurate readings as there's more room for the air to flow around the valve then when on the motor, so you basically try to achieve a realistic simulation as when it's sitting on the engine... Anyway we got to a port design that flowed the best we could achieve and weren't making any gains from porting it further, a few calculations using a spreadsheet that dad made up and it revealed that the choke area was actually the curtain area of valves, so no matter what you do you literally can not flow any more air through that sized area. This worked out well because he didn't actually have to take much meat out and only took about 30-40mins on the one port... So we picked up a little bit of flow in the lower lifts but picked up quite abit at the higher lifts, seeing a maximum of 171cfm@10" or about 286cfm@28" which is about 12% extra flow over the factory port... This was achieved only by opening up the bowl, slightly lowering the short side and lowering the floor about 1.5-2mm... And in my opinion that's a great achievement... Made a mould of the nearly completed port to measure the cross sectional areas every half inch Back onto the manifold... We bolted up each manifold a std port to compare before and after.. This was at 0.450" lift which is closest to max lift of the std cams, revealing that the FG manifold flowed only about 5cfm better then the Ba/f style manifold.. Dad still thought that there was room for improvement with the BF manifold, so the work started, took it apart and you can pretty much get to every spot along the runners which you can't with the FG one without cutting it open... Tested the bottom half of the bf mani and it actulally flowed quite well, obviously the plenum was a huge restriction, so we have cut up the ports/dividers on the top half of the plenum to basically make it an open plenum. Now it should be general knowledge that a tapered runner works well to speed up the airflow, we did some calcs with a program and it clarified this, so we also joined the two seperate runners on the bottom section of the plenum Dad made up a plate to flow the manifold alone We're still working on the manifold but some progress tests show that it is already flowing better the the FG manifold without richen cleaning it up, I.e sharp ended and stuff, so it's looking positive, I can still use my Process west fuel rail and I'm even going to stick with the PW throttle body relocation for now, so it saves some fab work if I was going to use the FG manifold. I'm still trying to stick to my schedule so I dummied up the motor to measure Piston to valve clearance and also completely measured the cams while I was their using a Cam analyser program. Basically taking a reading of lift every 5 degrees of crankshaft rotation.. So I can say that the BF mk2 cams are 204/206 duration @ 0.05" and 0.428"/0.434" max lift... The centreline was hard to measure as the stock cam gears are obviously controlled by oil pressure, I got readings of 96* intake and 134* exhaust, the program calculated that it would be about 115* when the gears have pressure we pulled apart a spare cam gear that was laying around, quite interesting but not too technical, I'll have to have a play with them in the tune, hopefully I can get some pointers (jet? Wombat testicles? Or Whatever your name is this week haha) While I was there I put a set of BF taxi cams in to measure, they were 194/201 @0.05" and 0.434/0.434... I'm going to see Brad at Atomic, about his HD chain, tensioner and dad doesn't like the stock flex plate, so I'm up for one of his ones aswell. I got a Nizpro Exhaust, seems alright, could do with abit of a clean up on the dump flange but should go alright Thanks for reading Joe

Thanks mate, it's the Squash twin Intank setup (twin DW300's).. I ran a -8 feed and -6 return, with a Holley rail and turbosmart FPR1200... I don't have any pics of it installed but I took a few progress shots The fuel issue we were having is that once we tried the 150 shot it would go lean (12. on the hit then richen right up (11.2), I'm certain that it's because I've used a -6 line at the front of the rail which feeds the nitrous fuel and the passenger bank of the engine, so oil try changing that to a -8 otherwise I'll have to feed the nitrous from somewhere before the fuel rail Well he's run out of money for now haha, it was close to 3k for the pump setup, hoses, fittings, nitrous kit and window switch all cost price!! So It was just ambient on the dyno, he needs a bottle warmer, and purge kit and sort out the fuel issue before we can go any further

Haha they sure have JVK, I think I owe him some new ones, Hare and Forbes have a 5 set of the 3" ones for like $100 -_-... Thanks for the kind words JVK, he really gets in a zone when he's thinking about it, it just seems so natural for him and is a pleasure to be able to ask all the dumb questions under the sun and he will happily answer haha I hope it comes together fairly smoothly and we see some good results

I think we have a heavily ported SOCH head here somewhere, with a big Cam, might be able to sweet talk dad into finding it, from memory it still needed some finishing off

These pics didn't come through in the other post, hopefully they work now

Thanks guys, Haha once my car is done I'm happy to help.. I'm still avoiding the box until the engines done, I'll probably tear it down when is end the motor for its next stage of machining... I'm still keen to give it a go, and any technical tips are appreciated haha... Yea we understand that, it also give the valve less support so it may move/wear and more chance of picking up on the guide... It's standard length is 1.8" it has been shortened to 1.55" so we will see how it goes

Thanks mate, I really impressed myself when it all came together haha.. Pretty much, the car tuned NA 98 I took it to 21* then with the e85 I took it to 26* any more wasn't making much more power so kept it "safer" then I have it taking out 6* with the 100shot again coz it wasn't really making power with any more.. Very keen to turn it up but have some issues with fuel supply for the nitrous to sort out before pushing it any further.. Yea I initially wanted the Zex Kit but long story short we got the NOS for convenience.. This controller only comes on at 100% throttle also? No decent vids yet, havnt even skidded it with the gas, because it's actually still a tuff car without it, I'm really liking these HSV's.... I need to get my car back on the road! Haha

RPM wasn't calibrated at the time, it's right in the nitrous hit though

It was an NOS kit I got from Rocket, with the optional Fly By Wire window switch, can turn it on and off at whatever rpm you like as long as your WOT and can support 2 stages.... Haha im not trying to promote myself or anything, just wanted to share..

I've been doing some work on Commodores lately, thought you guys might be interested... The car is an 09 Maloo LS3 manual... Fitted the VCM7, full exhsust, otr, NPC twin plate 440+kW Clutch, twin Intank pump setup new lines, fuel rail, 1000cc Injectors, e85 and a 100 shot of Gas!... It has been a big learning curve because I've only played with a hand full of commodores and never played with nitrous.. What an awesome feeling!! Managed to get a healthy 326rwkw/718nm of torque NA then with a 100hp shot of Gas it managed 397rwkw/1016nm torque!!

What would be your concerns Tranna? I am actually re-thinking the whole timing kit, is there a better stronger option? Atomic? Genuine? Anyway I'm getting back on track, I went to Powercruise Friday night, and realised that there is 10weeks until Powerplay which I have already paid for my garage spot and I'm not missing out! Tick Tock, I want to be sure I leave enough time for testing and tuning, so I've given myself a 6 week timeline! Which "should be sufficient" We focussed on the exhaust side this past week and will get to the intake next.. Exhaust flow is crucial for a boosted motor and should ideally Flow 90% of what the intake flows, so we will see how we go. Basically, dad and I started to look closer into the Head, firstly looking at the gaskets and manifolds, first up noticing that the bolt holes in the exhaust manifold are 12.9mm and the bolts are 9.8mm so 1.5mm play each way, essentially blocking 1.5mm of the exhaust ports because who lines them up properly when fitting? I never have.. I spent abit of time cleaning up my turbo manifold last time I had it off so it's already better then a standard manifold but obviously the ports will be out if not lined up... Also the manifold to turbo flange is quite far out, which I match ported last time, so might be worth a look on all of yours... I made some sleeves to take up the slack only on the far left and right corners they line up the manifold and gasket quite well, then match ported the gasket to the manifold then scribed it to the head My matched gasket sitting over an untouched gasket Now to do some measuring of the wall thicknesses to see how much meat there is to play with.. We have some hand made very technical devices to achieve this haha, as well as a rubbish head that we have drilled in certain areas to check the spots inside water jackets etc.. I flow tested the exhaust port as it was, with the standard valves etc to save a good base, it flowed well with dad comparing it to a ported VN head... There is a feature of this flow bench that allows you to measure where the air is actually flowing, so you basically map out the port.. We tested it at 0.05", 0.1", 0.2", 0.3", 0.4",0.5" lifts https://vimeo.com/122387529 https://vimeo.com/122387563 The basic theory behind airflow is that Air will take the shortest path and follows line of sight, so theirs a couple of key areas that "generally" pickup flow.. Short Side, Roof, the Guide Boss and Bowl... The short side helps to obviously shorten the Airflow Path, create a nicer curve and create a bigger bowl area.. Making a bigger Bowl/Throat area helps to slow the air down as it enters the port and help it turn the corner, which actually promotes flow.. The Guide Boss and the guide sticking out is a restriction, by slimming and smoothing it out your gaining flow.. The roof is where the air wants to go, you may be familiar with the old Clevo Heads getting "high Ported" where they actually fill the lower section of the port and weld extra metal at the top and grind it away to essentially lift the whole port up... Generally speaking there's no reason to touch the floor of the port, you can actually loose flow and velocity (Air Speed)... There is a lot more to it if you wanted to go to the effort of measuring cross sectional area and calculating a perfect volume for the length of the port... In saying all this I'm just a Carpenter haha, I have given my understanding of what my Dad has told me, so don't take it as gospel [emoji106]... Now the grinding gear has come out, a big Hitachi Die Grinder with Varied Speed Controller, a selection of burr's, long, short, fine, course, stone, sandpaper and different shapes... Dad is Grinding the head and I'll match port the manifolds haha, anyone can swing a grinder but getting each port smooth and exact is an art that I haven't achieved yet.. He basically ported it just as I explained above.. We worked out that we can afford to raise the port by about 2mm with the the Std manifold.. If using a custom exhaust manifold you can go abit more and round it off abit more to take advantage of the larger round pipe. Back on the flow bench so see the results. Remembering that the seats still need to be cut then the port tickled up and polished with the sandpaper wheel... It picked up at all valve lifts, more so at low lift which is where the valves spend more of their time anyway, but an average of 12% more flow was achieved Anyway, that's enough for now, I'll keep use updated Thanks for reading, Joe

In saying that, I'm happy to share my findings but we'll try and keep the information to this thread and the people that read it, I'm not gonna go and start a "How to Port" thread or anything...

I must admit that dad will be overlooking the porting very closely if not he will do the important parts and I'll just clean it up... He has ported a few of these but one was for an NA speedway car way back when he had his shop, luckily he is thorough enough to have noted all the changes and progress flow tests so we have a really good base to start from, I'm still utilising the standard fg intake manifold so that will also be a limiting factor in that we will only push the head to flow whatever the manifold can, so basic match porting to the gaskets and from my understanding there will be abit to be picked up from opening up the bowl a little, we will be punching the guides down to get a clean run at slimming down the guide boss, then on the exhaust side dads thinking we should take abit of meat off the top side kind of like hi-porting it 2-3mm to promote flow out the exhaust... Then the seat cutting angles play a big part as well, I'll try and document as much as I can and take photos to help people out

Thanks guys, yea I'm aware of that captain, those figures are just to get an idea of where it is currently and to work out where it could be, I will be modifying the chamber slightly, as I believe we can pick up sum flow in a couple spots, so I'll definitely measure them all after that

Hey Guys, thanks for the info, it has been taken on board and I've asked the questions to both my dad and the machinist and we came to the conclusion that I will not be rifle drilling the rods, if I really want the oil feed to the small end I am better off getting new rods with them already done, so I will keep going with these this time around... As for the line boring, they both also thought it was un-necessary for this motor... They said if the crank doesn't turn nicely once torqued up then do it otherwise it's not necessary.. Anyway, I haven't got around to finishing flow testing the head, but I got the block and crank back, first up I gave everything a good glean, stoned all the flat surfaces, scrubbed and blew all the holes... Wd40 went over everything after its wash and ready to be dummy assembled to work out what Comp I want... So I put all the bearings in, crank in then caps and studs, the spool girdle doesn't have any identification of front or back, and can go on either way as long as the countersunk holes go over the caps... I started torquing it up, obviously spinning the crank while torquing, once I got to #2 cap it clamped the crank, firstly I freaked out thinking that I should of got it line bored, so took the girdle off and started torquing the caps down without the girdle, luckily once done the crank spun freely, I put the girdle back on the same way and just watched the #2 cap while torquing it, the countersunk hole was touching the cap and pulling it sideways clamping the crank.. Took it all apart again had a good look at the cap checking all the flat surfaces etc and all looked good, it was obviously the girdle as it was fine when I just torqued down the caps, so tried the girdle on the other way, torqued it all up and it was fine! Spins like a gem.. So for future reference the spool girdle goes with the "SPOOL" stamp to the back.. I measured the thrust movement and come up with 0.005" which I'm happy with. Next I put a piston and rod in #1 cylinder to measure the deck height, it came up as 0.038" below deck, I took that out and used it in cylinder #3 and again in #6 coming up with the same 0.038" on all of them.. So that's a good start.. The Pistons are supposed to have a 14cc dish and everything I've read say that the chamber is 65cc, but obviously I'm going to measure it myself, the Pistons came up at 14cc but the chamber was 66cc with the standard valves in... That's as far as I got, so I'll have to sit down and do some calculations for the comp, I'm still unsure of what head gasket I'm using so that obviously plays a part aswell.. Some quick calcs show that the most I would be able to achieve with the 14cc Pistons is about 9.5:1, it not a whole lot but should still be low enough to take 25+psi on 98 happily... Thanks, Joe I was abit slack with the photos, I'll take more the next time I'm in the garage

Rip85, just having a think about that, the reason for the oil feed is to help lubricate the pin and cool the crown, it shouldn't effect your bearings at all? The oil is fed through the crank to the big end

Thanks for the info mate, I'll definitely do something about it!!

Jet I'm hearing that the BF and FG cams have the same ford part number? Thanks Keith, I can't wait to get it finished.. Interesting Rip85.. Which oil hole are you referring to? The small end has oil holes, but requires splash to get oil in there, I have heard of some that have a hole drilled through the centre so oil is fed from the big end?? Is that what you mean

So does anyone have some FG F6 cams lying around? Haha ford want $297 each

Very good point, and makes sense.. I'll bring it up again with dad and see what the machinist says.. Cool, I'll head in that direction, are all fg 6cyl cams the same including na? Fat!! That's the plan man, like I said I want to gain the absolute most out of the setup, so it will be on quick and pull to redline.. Getting goose bumps just thinking about it!! sh*t hey that's pretty stout out of the fg, I'm assuming boost fell off towards the top?

Good bye ZF