Peppy_t92

Glad to hear that your happy Rossko! Thanks for the mention k31th it’s been a while since I have been around here haha, good to see people still active on here I might head over and update the Peppy thread

Hey guys, sorry I'm not too active on here these days, but yes I have taken the leap to turn this into a legitimate business, HOON Tune... I'm more active on Facebook if you would like to check out what I've been up too Here's a car I finished off yesterday, absolutely beautiful car and impressive to drive... I'm normally not a fan of a manual Barra, but I have customised my own 2-step to this one, what a difference it has made, next I'll adapt it to the auto to see how it responds

Great, that's the best way to do it.. good luck

Create a histogram in the scanner that logs cam angle vs rpm (like the SD tables) with LTFT in the cells, use this to adjust your map per airmass table for your idle, light load and cruise... you may want to disable dfco while doing this

Thanks Jet

Hey Guys, yea that's right@xr6tforme We managed a 9.30@154 from Tony's car on Wednesday night, making it the 3rd fastest ZF overall, and NSW fastest genuine street driven ZF car I'm extremely proud of everything about this car, it just performs.. it starts, idles, and cruises like a standard car, then raises the hairs on your arms at WOT We will definitely be back out, but will have to travel to heathcote track to run again as Sydney Dragway wasn't too impressed that we snuck through after running the 9.8@151 a few weeks back I'll upload some videos shortly Another customer Steve in his FG ute also managed a 10.4@136 so PB's all round

Hey Fellas, sorry for the long delay, I've had heaps going on, but today I'd like to share some testing from last night.. An F6 which Has had the Hoon Tune threatment from front to back.. this car came to me with various issues, firstly one of my stage 5 box builds which is pretty much the bees knees, I rate it to 600rwkw but it's showing potential for more A full fuel system upgrade, as once it was loaded up properly the system it came with just wasn't up to the task.. A one of my full built engine combos, from top to bottom, with the only outsourcing being the machine work, which is done to my tolerances then checked and assembled in house with numerous mods for strengthening... it retains a stock manifold and cams for now.. a precision 7675 with the small H cover and 0.96rear The car already had a trutrack, DSS 1400hp shafts, and a Gibson 1000hp shaft This is Tonys Daily and has been for a long time, I supplied him with an nGauge so he has multiple tunes to choose from to make the most out of the situation And I'll add that it's fully tuned with HP Tubers, so anyone that says that it's not capable needs some educating The first run was just a half track pass to shake the cobwebs and get Tony in the Zone the next was supposed to be another test but Tony felt good and stayed into it... We're very pleased with the results but are also keen to get back out for some more with a few slight adjustments It's not letting me upload the video, illkeep trying, otherwise it's on Facebook Thanks Fellas

Your gonna love it mate, it will get sent out on Monday

Awesome Mulch, as a gift to the XR6T Forum members I'll even throw in free shipping, just type "XMAS SHIPPING" into the apply coupon bar in your shopping cart

15% OFF the nGauge until Christmas Guys $580 https://www.facebook.com/nGaugeAU/posts/161377527670089 http://www.ngaugeau.com/products

Ahh yea nice Qik6, both very tough cars, I was parked across the road from them and used their caravan to charge my laptop for a little while The nGauge is 82mm at its largest point, but will fit into 3 different sized holes

Thanks mate, what do you have? How did you go?

Yea Eff, they are in the 240's, let's just say I have had to install a vacuum pump as my brakes were staying hard unless de-accelerating And yep it's an off the shelf gtx3582 with a bronze bearing carrier, the mosr I could push before was 22-23psi max at around 50% DC before it was blowing spark out, so I would highly recommend an external wastegate 50mm minimum if you want to push a smaller turbo hard, it just helps to release all the exhaust back pressure Hey Qik6, my BF is Vixen (red) I only done 2 runs as it was a long day driving from Sydney to Cooma and back on the same day.. my best time was 23.4 seconds, horrible lol, I was still battling some flat spots on light throttle, so transitioning off the line was quite hard, and it took me 4 seconds to actually start moving once I broke the beam https://vimeo.com/194711799 https://vimeo.com/194712571 Ordinary video but you get the point

Thanks mate, it's different, you really have to be up around 3500-4000rpm for it to spring to life, so in 4th gear, road speed is up around 150kmh This is compared to a 6466 car I did on the same day, so you can see the loss down low, but it makes up for it up top, which suits the ZF and gearing quite well I think In saying that, I did roll onto the throttle on min a little slow, so it can be abit deceiving

Sorry for the delay, I've been absolutely flat out! Haha thanks camo, very clever campaign Not at this stage, I'm in control of the sales and support of the Ford side of things, working in conjunction with Vcm Performance here in Australia and nGauge developers in the states I've been working on quite a few cars as usual, but I have to keep them under wraps for abit longer, I can however share the results of my own car, Fir anyone that hasn't followed my experiences with my own car, I'm basically trying to get the absolute most of of a gtx3582, and faced a few issues along the way, such as head lifting and high ebp, so I have finally installed a 50mm external gate to the stock exhaust manifold and added a set of experimental cans made by myself and Brad at Atomic, I'm still retaining the vct and tuning with HP Tuners obviously.. the people that say tuning cams on a stock computer is hard, they aren't wrong haha, I have spent 20+ hours and finally gotten it to a stage where it cruises, idles and transitions throttle properly, boy it's different, it sounds and revs like a euro style motor, it has definitely lost torque down low and it's noticeable, it just means you have to pick gears more carefully, because it made an extra 60kw through the mid and peak power band, with power peaking at 6400rpm and still making 470kw at 7000rpm I competed in the Snowy Mountains 1000 last weekend, placing 19th out of 140 cars with a top speed of 274kmh also making it the fastest Barra of the day I'll head out to the drags in the next few weeks hopefully Ohh and check out these cool gauge holders I had made for the nGauge, obviously specifically for the falcons!! I'll have some videos up of the gauge in action over the next few days, but it's a great bit of kit! Www.nGaugeAU.com Facebook @nGaugeAU

Fellas, I have some exciting news!! I can now announce that I am the Australian dealer for the new HP Tuners nGauge Welcome Everyone... This is the new HP Tuners nGauge, the only device which will tune, monitor, log and diagnose your Falcon, Mustang, Focus, F150 and Late model camira is support coming soon!!! Check out www.nGaugeAU.com for more info or message the Page, Trade and retail customers welcome!! RRP$650 https://www.facebook.com/nGaugeAU/posts/161377527670089 Www.nGaugeAU.com Check out the Facebook page and website for more info but I'm happy to have a chat with anyone about it..

So ive spent the last few months doing bits and pieces to my car when I had time.. it has finally gone back in. The engine has had a full freshen up, but we needed to completely port and modify another head as my machine shop stuffed up my original head Except this time I'm testing a set of cams, hopefully to maximise the efficiency of the headwork, and retaining the VCT..my engine programs calculate peak power to be around 7000rpm and with a little more boost it will make the same power and torque down low.. I just hope the gtx35/82 can keep up I'll be spending alot of time getting the tune dialled in, but with some quick changes it's already showing promise https://vimeo.com/190532749 Ohh and a 50mm external gate welded to the stock manifold and plumbed back into the dump, to help with boost control and back pressure on the manifold

Exactly right.. This is a 1990's M80 EMS, so very basic, but a mate had it sitting in his toolbox and let us use it.. but yea it was easy to use and pretty straight forward.. I got in contact with Peter and Peter from EMS and they actually came out for the first fire up, they updated the firmware and also updated the board for us all for nothing! Top blokes and we're happy to come chat and give me a hand... It was different tuning for injector open time values rather then just imputing injector data and using a VE table, but their new models support that type of tuning This model only has 4 ignition and injector outputs so it is running on batch fire rather then sequential but it's doing the job fine, it has input and outputs to control fuel pumps, thermo fans, the fuel into the hat and will even support their fancy new dash if Daniel can afford it lol I'd definitely talk to them before my next aftermarket setup

Speak of the devil haha, he literally just sent me some pics We're taking it to an all Datsun day here this weekend.. there's some fanatics hey, some of them absolutely hate what we have done to it and aren't shy to tell us lol

Thanks guys, we love it and are very proud of it so far But yea 100% EFF, the middle throttle blade is the only one that's working, the side two are blocked off from the inside.. the issue here was the return spring was too stiff, so he had to push too hard to move the throttle, then he had me in the back of his head saying "stay off the limiter" and our fabricator mate saying "stay off the wall" We've since changed to a softer spring so it's much easier to control and hold steady.. But yea I also setup a nitrous fuel solenoid constantly pulsing fuel into the top of the blower and ramps up with boost, which cools the rotors and also helps get the "Summernats Hunt".. that was another one of his requirements haha

How are we fellas, Sorry for the delay, I've been busy working on my car for once, I'll update my build thread once it's up and running with some exciting changes But let me share some more cars, it's not a ford, I hope you like it Is that a blown LS in a Datsun 1600? Yep, Clever right haha, a very good friend of mine wanted a car that would fry instantly, instant power and be reliable, he has been through the Commodores and falcons but wanted something different... he had the Datsun with a 4link setup and firewall already modified for a 2j, I said let's put a Barra and ZF in it.. nope, I want big loud and angry, alright LS twin turbo, nup, you gotta be blown to be known he said, So the motor is a stock bottom end L98 (6.0l out of a VE) I put a big lower cam, lifters, valves and springs in it, it has a Holley hi ram manifold and then we dropped a 6/71 blower on it, it's still EFI, controlled by an old EMS M80, using all the stock sensors, coils etc.. and a Powerglide getting the power to the rear It turned into a full tube chassis car, new firewall and 4link setup with a shortened Borg warner hilux diff to fit 28x15 tyres up the back (if he ever wants too), Evo8 Brembos but yet to fit its final wheels Mind you, this project went from a rolling datsun to what it is today within 6weeks to make it to the last Powerplay, which ended up getting rained out -_-.. we pulled an all nighter go get it to the event with this being the second start up for the car so I only had a very basic educated guess at the tune haha https://vimeo.com/189691685 A few days later I got some dyno time with it, being a stock bottom end I kept it conservative, it is running 6psi and soft cut rev limiter at 6000rpm.. it hovered around the 400rwkw mark, which is more then enough to have fun in this car which weighed in at just under 1100kg https://vimeo.com/189694390 This was his first real drive of the car, and first time on a burnout pad ever, very nervous and still working the car out, I told him to stay off the limiter, he did well haha After that, he copped a 6 month ban from the track for doing a trailer skid in the carpark [emoji30].. so we'll be back out with it soon! https://vimeo.com/189696013

Last week I changed a set of springs and valve stem seals in a BF, I realised once I had already started that it might help to show people how I do it and the importance on changing the seals at the same time now that cars are getting older.. Now everyone has their own way to do it and their are different tools available.. I use the Atomic valve spring tool and a few other general hand tools firstly a few things have to come off to get the rocker cover off, (crossover, garnish, throttle body on b series) I also take the spark plugs out Once all that's off and you have exposed the valvetrain start to look for the timing marks on the cam gears, it's a simple little dot on each one, if you turn the motor you will find that their are 4 coloured links (I believe they are yellow or green, im colourblind so whatever works haha) two are closer together then the others, the closer ones belong down the bottom and line up with the crank sprocket, basically you need to turn the motor until the two marks on the cam gears are both at 12:00 with the coloured chain links directly above them.. you can do this by hand with a spanner or socket on the crank bolt, or I use a jumper wire to trigger the starter relay, as in the pictures.. it can take up to 37 rotations to get the marks to line up, in which case you realise it would have been better to just turn the motor backwards haha... you can get the motor to TDC without the marks but it's much easier to put back together if you spend a few minutes lining everything up before removing the sprockets As I said I started taking photos part way through so I don't have as many pictures as I would have liked.. but your a smart bunch, and know what's going on.. you can see the coloured links and marks on the cam gears in this pic which is the next step, I unbolt the cam gears and cable tie them to the timing case, they can be removed but this is easier and less room for error IMO Next I mark the cam saddles, this is important as they aren't all equal, they have been line honed and will only work correctly the way they are originally installed, I make it a habit to mark them, just a quick stamp in the same spot so I know where they go Now everything can be removed, remember to loosen the saddles equally to avoid snapping a bolt or bending a cam or saddle.. I find it easiest to place everything in the order which they came out This motor has 150,000km on it and looks like it has been neglected through it's life.. anyway, next I give each retainer a quick tap with a socket and extension to loosen everything up to make sure they come off first go Also make sure to put a rag in the throttle body hole, in each oil return on the intake side and in the timing cover, this is your last line of defence lol I use crow springs and never had a problem, I test them on the bench befre install and they are always perfect, I have tested the ones in my car 3 times over the past 3 years and they are still the same as they were out of the box.. let me say that not all springs are equal, a certain intercooler company sell them and are good for a lot of combos but I have changed them out for crow sets recently in a few of the bigger builds I'm doing as they have lost tension Install the tool and place some air in the cylinder, you don't need a lot of pressure, just enough to hold the valve closed, 20-40psi generally does it, if it's a manual, throw it in gear, if it's auto sometimes you'll need to put a breaker bar on the crank bolt and wedge it so the motor doesn't want to move once the cylinder is pressurised That's it, go through and do all the springs, it's fiddley, stressful and time consuming, not much you can do about it lol, I find a dab of grease on the collets helps them stick to the valve and makes your life much easier! As I mentioned earlier on the older cars or cars with higher kms I change the valve stem seals too, these stop oil from the head seap or get sucked into the port under vacuum conditions (idle, cruise) which creates white smoke out the exhaust.. the seal gets hard and brittle over time and extreme temperatures, it's easy to change while changing the springs, so why not I just reach in with a set of ultra long nose pliers and wiggle them off The left one came of the car and the right is a new genuine item Another important thing is to bleed down the lifters before putting them back in, otherwise you risk valves staying open when you first start up the car, yes they will bleed down themselves eventually, or you can have a crisp clean start first go just by separating the lifter from the rocker and squeezing it in a vice or press, this pushes out all the oil from inside making it soft again and will then pump up once oil pressure is applied when the car is started Put everything back together, I have made a tool out of weld rod to help release and hold the timing chain tensioner, I'll have to get a photo, it's just a bent up piece of weld rod with a point on the end, have a look on YouTube for the atomic video showing how the tensioner works if you like.. That's it, ensuring everything is lined up and installed as it was, turn the motor over by hand a couple times to be sure and it's ready This car will be getting done of my x-spurt injectors, a tune and a few other goodies in the next couple of weeks

Ahh, my bad, I was thinking off Effxr6t.. but haha fair call skids You can do it ralphy, il love to see your handy work, its people like yourself, Jet and toads, trans that initially helped me with the falcons.. I hope I'm not just giving off the feel that I'm all about power, my sole aim when tuning is drivability, I will spend 80% of the time tuning idle, light throttle/cruise, as well as fixing shops stuff ups, overlooks, or just laziness.. I just don't want to go into that side of it because these shops are some of the biggest in the game and the last thing I want is them thinking that I'm slandering them, or taking their work... have you ever seen a shop work on an SD table? Neither have I lol, I suspect some wouldn't even know how... are you talking about Barra conversions or working with the diesels? Haha I think we spoke about this long ago Matty?, still not finished? I'll happily help in spirit but don't have the time to dedicate to something new like that

That's what it's all about Skidxr6t, it's a passion for me and I love doing it, the day it becomes a chore is the day I stop.. I already have a full time business so all of this is a bonus and it's amazing how many people are happy to wait until I have time to help with their setup.. I'm working on some pretty heavy hitters at the moment which once complete will hopefully open people's eyes about the HP Tuners software and what it can do with the right input You do your own work to don't you? With the SOHC motors?

Dads pride and joy is is FG GTP, it's the first of the series 2's and he bought it when they first came out.. He has had his days of spending money modifying cars so he's more then happy with how the car is, completely stock... I convinced him to let me play with it, so I installed a replacement k&n filter and just gave it a basic tune to increase throttle response, touch up the ZF and maybe give it some more boost haha.. for those that don't know, these cars are limited to 60* throttle angle, instead of the max available 83*).. the intercooler setup, or lack there of was the let down, with Intake air temps soaring, so I was conservative... it went 12.1@116 with a lazy 2.4 60", just on the standard Dunlop tyres and driving it off the line, (he didn't want to break anything) Almost 3 years with the tune and it's still going strong, he drives it most weekends, and isn't exactly gentle with it https://vimeo.com/185887598 https://vimeo.com/185887662