Peppy_t92

Thanks guys, legends! I'm really proud of everything the car and myself have achieved, thanks for coming along for the ride, I'm definitely not finished yet Here's a wedding skid from today (on a private road) https://vimeo.com/146469844

She's back!! Ohh how I missed it! We finished most of the assembly Thursday night, Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures of inside the diff case, but you all know how that goes.. It has a while under decel, possibly due to the high preload we set It's hard to compare it power wise because I forgot how it felt before, so I can't wait to get back on the dyno and see if these FG cams make a difference, and if I can keep the head down Thanks again guys

The pictures actually make it look worse then it is, both the crown and pinion have quite good, and even wear Nope, just that they came with the driveshaft kit lol

Got a boiler maker mate to come past and have a look at my weld job on the cradle.. After he had a good laugh at my expense, he said it will be fine, suggested a couple spots that could use some more and sorted it out.. I got some pics of the stripped centre all cleaned up and ready to start going back together Pressing the old hubs and bearings out was interesting, I read up abit on it and everyone says what a pain it is.. I soaked it in wd40 and made up a tool/jig for my little hand held press, pretty proud of my efforts as it took all of 5 mins to remove the hubs It split the bearing in half in the process but it was easy enough to bash the casing out I picked up the last couple of items today, some open wheel nuts for the longer studs and some redline gear oil Hopefully it it all built tomorrow and install the cradle Thursday!

Haha it penetrated keif, we'll soon see if it rips off or not

Hmm the ulx stuff is hard to find around here, I'll have another look around tomorrow.. Everything else came today, ohh how exciting, everything is so pretty, the shafts, hubs, studs, trutrac, bearings, seals and a set of various shims just for variety I just opened and checked everything, tidied up abit, everything's there, just need some oil and new wheel nuts as the new wheel studs are longer.. Now installing the twin bush setup, it's pretty straight forward, and the instructions are thorough, I set it up with the empty housing, lots of measurements and levelling, to make sure it's all sitting true and keeps the correct pinion angle, a few tacks while everything is installed then remove the diff and hat to finish it off, a coat of paint and all good.. A quick check to make sure nothing moved And see how much more we can get done tomorrow!

Thanks, good to know guys, that's just what Race Brakes Sydney supplied, my rears do next to no work with the 6 pots up front so we'll see how they go. I believe they retail for around $900+ postage Franga, if your in Sydney I may be able to help you out, plus the more you order the cheaper they get Yesterday I stripped the rear end, just had the car up on ramps and stands, it's not too painful but the rain was just annoying, but I powered through, I stripped and de-greased everything because of the diff oil that went everywhere.. Turns out it was only a snapped diff bolt, I presumed a split hat because there was literally oil everywhere, seems like it was coming from the breather up into that rear crossmember then leaking into the ground when the car was stationary? Any one seen this before? Took the centre apart and all looks good, a few heat marks on the bearings and runners, obviously I'm changing all the bearings and seals so punched everything out, now just to wait for everything else to arrive.. Any opinions on diff oil? Does the trutrac like anything in particular, Redline?

Some goodies turned up today, ohh how I love receiving parts haha, the more expensive they are the more excited I get!!

The Nizzer ones are like a male and female coupling, like one slips into the other, the ones I got have a machined face

Camo to the rescue Hahaa, there you go, Bellbat, do you have those dimensions? I actually didn't even use a tape measure when I done mine lmao... It's on the low priority list for me tbh In my defence, I was using gassless wire in dads mig, and I havnt done a decent weld since high school.. So we'll see how I go with welding the twin bush shetup to my cradle lmao!

Alrighty, back into it!! I bought a set of the atomic oversize head stud washers to hopefully help with my little head lifting/coolant passing issue, as well as a set of FG cams I finally got my new dump pipe ceramic coated, and made up a cat delete pipe! There's an obvious size difference in the washers, one at a time I loosened off the nut, removed it, cleaned the threads and surfaces ready for the new washers, re-greasing and re-torquing the studs.. All went well, except the oversize washers don't fit on the front two studs as they wont seat properly because the machined surface isn't big enough for it, so I put the old washers back on those two.. Now I was playing with the idea that the head lifted due to the in efficiency of the exhaust side of things, ie cam, manifold, rear housing.. But going through some calculations and some simulations on my program, increasing the exhaust duration by 10* and slightly more lift I was able to pick up 100hp but the cylinder pressure and port pressures went up also, which isn't what we want.. With some help from jet I had another think about it, why am I chasing numbers? normally I'm the first to tell people that dyno numbers don't mean anything, what I've achieved already proves the combo works, I just need to get the rest of the car sorted to get it down the track, Anyway, long story short I picked up a set of FG cams from a wreckers for $200, so why not see if they make a difference, I wanted to create a cam dr file of them but my patience got the better of me and just slapped them in.. I can always take the rocker cover off another time and setup a dial gauge and degree wheel.. NA Fg and turbo FG cams are the same ford part# if anyone was wondering... Ceramic coated dump and my straight through cat pipe... I'm no fabricator so I was un-aware that most people's v bands are different, so the ones I got were narrower and seal differently to the Niz ones, so it's not sealing very well, I have to sort it, back to the drawing board.. The real exciting part, My independent Motorsport twin bush hat should arrive today, And I've ordered a eaton trutrac, drive shaft shop 1400hp shaft kit, all new bearings etc, rear pads and rotors... I'll tell you there wasn't much change from $6k.. Hopefully I can get it all in by my birthday at the end of next week, because who doesn't love birthday skids? Haha

This is becoming more and more common in BA's as they get older... Typically if it's the valve stem seals it will blow smoke during high vacuum periods, so idle, taking off... If the turbo is good and comp/leak down test comes up alright, there's a good chance it's the seals... It can be done on the car, but requires the valve springs to come off, so if you have already done them, they have to come off again, if not then lucky you.. If it's at the stage where your seals are stuffed then there's also a good chance that the head is due for a service

Good stuff hobo!.. 98 or e85? AFR's would of been handy, how do you log them when street tuning?

No I meant by altering the slopes your manipulating the SD tables, so no need to touch them

This is where the altering of the slopes comes into play, it's manipulating the SD calculations to achieve your targets

I don't use livelink, but if you have set your base table to 0.85 then it's mega lean.. Drop your Low slope to like 110 and put your base fuel table back to standard but change the values in the bottom right to 0.8-0.82 or so

What fuel pump? How much timing to take out really depends on the boost level you intend to run, a good dump and de-cat with the std actuator will see a spike of 18-19psi and level off to 15-16psi max... 5* is quite a lot to take out but that's up to you.. The AFR correction table also has a multiplier table of 0.1 or so I believe, so it's never adding or subtracting the full values in the correction tables... Same goes for the rest of the correction/multiplier tables.. Some people leave this std, some zero out the positive values, some zero out the complete table.. Changes need to be made elsewhere to compensate either way The base fuel map is not a VE table, it's a Desired fuel table, so what you want to target... Set this to reflect the lambda you desire.. you can then either alter the slopes to achieve very close to this desired fueling or alter the speed density tables, we have been through this before The stock tune pops and backfires because of the stock injector data with the ID1000's?

Then refer back to my post on the HP forum, about altering your slopes etc to achieve your desired Lambda

Alright, no problems, Yep your AFR readings seem quite standard, what sort of LTFT and STFT were you seeing? If you have performed the correct free air calibration on the sensor you should be pretty safe to rely on it, is it placed in the dump pipe or at the tail pipe? But yep, plug the injector data in that you have listed, also the voltage offset table, no need to touch the pressure offset tables Also take some timing out of the higher load ranges of the boarderline knock table as a start What dump pipe, cat, exhaust, wastegate combo do you have?

Sorry if it has been stated earlier, but I can't remember.. Is yours BA, BF or FG? The file your using as "stock" is the stock file from the x3? Or are you using the Heinrich file and just put all the values back to stock from another stock compare file? This will affect my response

Hey guys, it's been a while, poor Pep is just sitting in the driveway, I'm still saving and getting ahead in other areas of my life, sometimes you have to prioritise I guess haha.. Does anyone know of a young guy keen to get a Carpentry apprenticeship? Must be keen to learn and reliable.. South West Sydney area (Liverpool) preferably.. PM me for more info

Rollex, go over all our previous posts, that is what we have been suggesting.. If your achieving your desired fueling there's no need

The Holdens use the "Load (MAP) vs RPM" Speed Density (VE) table approach, which is alot easier to calibrate, more resolution means Desired AFR's are more common.. But it too follows a "Desired Equivalency Ratio" table, then a "Power Enrichment" (WOT) table when over a certain TP which is set to around 50% from factory.. So maybe ford hasn't got it too wrong? I personally haven't needed to alter the SD tables as I'm achieving Desired AFR's even with a ported head, and manifolds, gtx35/82... but it might be different for the small turbo FG guys that have opted for the larger BA/BF/ FG F6 turbo

The HP forum is good for info on using the software, but you should also understand the how's, whys, what's, of tuning and combustion engines, there's plenty of books that give you a guide This was a great read once you start logging your own car and matching maps to logged data you learn pretty quickly what does what and by how much

I replied to your post on HP forum Rollex, didn't realise Ralphy covered most of it on here.. Good luck mate, there's plenty of knowledgable people to help out around here