sixman

Best sound comes from a manual....

Sensational! Love how no one would have any idea looking at that car just what it is capable of.

With your power it has exceeded the stock turbo for reliability! Agree its a great turbo, and I would never have changed if debris from piston number 6 hadnt decided to get intimate with the turbine wheel.

Trouble maker! Wise words @rednose

Nice exhaust. If it was new with the GTX, that reduced back pressure maybe why it feels laggier compared to stock turbo. 74 and 80 refer to the turbine wheel size. The 9174 has the smaller turbine wheel from the 8374. Was chosen for quicker spool. Mines a manual on pump fuel, presume at 25psi that run was on E85? I bet it would have made more power on the dyno with different tyres. We thought there was something wrong with the car for a while, until changing tyres, the r888's were pretty new at the time. Think it was around $2800 delivered with rear housing

Did you do other mods when changing to the gtx? Just a dump/cat/exhaust will make it laggier. Forgot to say I had the stock turbo with supporting mods and a 320rwkw tune.

I should add the GTX gen2 turbos look good. I have not seen much feedback with them in the barra mix.

Ok, I think I have talked about this before on another thread. Couple of points - no point have big power without supporting mods, including driveline and tyres. My car is a daily street manual. P98 only, E85 is not easily accessible for me. Stock turbo - lasted 5k km before being ditched. PTE6235 with ported stock rear housing 450rwkw 21psi. A great street turbo which will push the limit of stock internals. The mid-range is incredible. Makes nice noise as well. As a cost effective street turbo you dont need anything more than this. GTX3576 with ported stock rear housing. 390rwkw. Spools 400-500rpm quicker than the PTE and definitely feels stronger under 2750-3000rpm. But, after the PTE, this turbo just felt slow and boring. EFR9174 with BW 0.83 rear housing. Way more expensive and requires more mods to fit. The other turbos look and feel like toys compared to this, the quality is unmatched. The IWG on the rear housing is a much better / more efficient design. 420+rwkw, but didnt get a comparable dyno reading to the others as was run with r888's on the back. (As an example I saw 60rwkw more on the PTE with street tyres 390 to 450rwkw). This is on pump98 at 20PSI. This thing spools quicker than the baby gtx, pulls harder in the midrange than the PTE and just keeps going. The end turbo for me!

Lol. Maybe we should move that discussion to a turbo thread

@MattyP still running the efr9174

Where are you located? Easy access (close to home and work) and being right next to a train station, I ended up at Autotech many years ago. Very happy so far.

Thanks guys, great advice. This is the side facing the house. I put the folding doors and the deck in about 4-5 years ago. Putting in a level deck with the coping pavers will probably be the cheapest option and might suit the back of the house. Although the more I look up diamond cut concrete its hard to surpass.

So, whats it like on the road?

This is interesting. I need to redo my pool surround. The sandstone pavers were there when we bought the place. The foundation is about 20cm of compacted sand and the pavers keep moving. Trying to work out the best way of settling the area.

Arronm, whats it like to drive with those long sticks? mazda74 yeah, the stock gear knob is terrible - does not last long at all. Good to hear you have it sorted. Put some pics up of the new stick when you put it in.

Hey, where are all the classical Greek columns

Gauges are aeroforce. Although I mostly use analogue sensors rather than obd2 data. The gauge holder is attached to the steering column. If your after a short shifter that you can attach any stick to go Mal Wood. Your making this look difficult, dudes on here worked it all out years ago

@rednose - is that slab diamond cut? Heard that this technique reduces concrete cracking. With I had done this rather than coating my driveway a few years back, looks good but does not last long.

Yes its a great deal!

Leave the knob on the shaft. Much easier to replace shaft and knob with better units. The stick is not expensive, would be cheaper than buying all these tools to get the knob off. Also, you are limited with thread sizes for replacement knobs on the standard shaft.

Sorry, no idea about part numbers. There are 3 components - an adaptor block, the stick, and the knob. Can mix and match whatever you want. The adaptor block is steel and can transmit a lot of noise. Whatever you choose, use some rubber or leather between the block and shifter to decouple the noise.

This is a Hurst setup I sourced through Mal Wood. Was 3 or 4 years ago, but his price was competetive compared to importing myself.

My stick dont need no extension...

Whats the story here? Good to see it up and running. Presume that's just a run in tune for the the new build.

Catching up on the pics - your work looks sensational as always. Best wishes for the tune and getting it up and running!