dbXR60

I did the cheap ass solution. From 60 km/h 6 stop with heavy brakes (say 80% brake application, not lockup / not triggering ABS) to 20km/h and then ride back up to 60kmh and repeat. Pick a quiet time an quiet place. The aim is to get through the stop/starts and have a 5 to 10 min cool down period as well. This means no matter what, you do not come to a full stop. If you think you will, don't try this. After 2 or 3 stops, or maybe 3 or 5, it will stink like hell. This is exactly what you should expect. We are burning the brake crap shudder off. Solved my 80-50 shudder no problems. You all owe me a keg for each shudder I save

Seriously, OP, your question is how long is a piece of string.

Straight line vs twistys vs cost (purchase + maintenance) Pick any 2. There is your answer.

I had brochures given to me that say the redstuff are 'fast road use and occasional track use', and that bluestuff are 'dedicated race car, track use only' !!! Good to hear from people with experience in both these pads. Did a bit of digging, and the Aus site seems a bit out of date with info on bluestuff. The US Site has a bit more info, and mention "biggest advantage of EBC Bluestuff NDX is their bite from cold". What setup you running rotor/caliper/car wise scatterbrain? And how pricey were the blues compared to reds?

At Wakefield, don't you have a few shortish sessions? So it is kinda like the shorter events that ScatterBrain refers to? So, I would have thought the Redstuff would have been the recommended pad given OP only did a couple of track days there. From what I've heard the downside on the yellows and blues is they take a while to get up to temp, which ain't always great on the street?

Looks nice. Very disappointed at the lack of black skid marks on that concrete where you took the shots :o

Transmission ZF fix for BF2: Speechless. I have no speech.

Some insurers seem to be trying to take advantage on renewals - not just greenslips, but all types of insurance. I noticed GIO trying this out on my elderly parents. Ring them up and they reduce the price significantly - hundreds of dollars. F them, I still swtich to someone else. Not doing business with anybody trying to pull such a shamefull rip off.

Cripes don't say you have a BF, or you'll have Jetsnot , RHR, and Dillz all over you like a rash! THIS IS A FG THREAD!!! lol

Recommend you read a couple of threads and save yourself some bucks: Sound deadening a vehicle "On the outer skin, 50% coverage of dynamat extreme (or any butyl/alu deadener) is probably about as much as you can use before you start wasting money big time and getting tiny improvements for large costs." Proper sound deadening (Dynamat) technique "You don't need to plaster the entire inside of the car with dynamat. Simply put 1-2" strips of the stuff over about 20-30% of the surface of the panels, in a chevron, or checkerboard pattern. This will get you 95% of the sound improvement of a full application without all that wasted mass or expense." But really, Dynamat and similar are really about reducing vibration, not sound deadening per se... db

Nearly all tyres are required to have a Universal Tyre/Tire Quality Guide (aka UTQG). It often looks like 280 AA A, 460 B C etc. I think it's always stamped on the tyre, though it may not be readily available in advertising or specs provided by companies. The number is the treadwear rating, followed by a traction rating, then a temperature resistance rating. Here's an explanation of UTQG. The traction/grip rating says: "UTQG Traction Grades are based on the tire's straight line wet coefficient of traction as the tire skids across the specified test surfaces. The UTQG traction test does not evaluate dry braking, dry cornering, wet cornering, or high speed hydroplaning resistance". Sound pretty useless? I'd pay more attention to the ratings of tyre tests and, eg from people surveys over at Tirerack than the UTQG ratings. Unless all you do is brake in the wet....

Found your vid on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veOcZjuQoko From 4:15 is classic. Get used to it.

I had mentioned in each of my posts that I was talking about my BF2, but it's your site. If you want a thread on the same topic for every model, hey, that's your call. Perhaps someone could 'Report' my posts as off-topic and a mod could do some 'moderation' and delete my posts in this thread so as to make it 'less confusing' for people. Thanks

Gee, so sorry for posting some information that might be useful for members of other models. I didn't realise this was now FGFordXR6turbo.com

From pics I've seen elsewhere, seems like the plug in my BF2 might be different. I think these AUTOMOTIVE 2-WAY PLUG/SOCKET - 250 SERIES - 2 WAY (PP-2602) from Jaycar are what I'm after.

Will there be a full list of the trained ZF tuners on the SCT or Herrods website so we know who specifically can tune the ZF trans?

Guys Have a BF2. I saw some pics/instructions on this site and another that don't match what I have. I have a black plastic plug that has the splade connections inside at right angles. I spent an hour or so hanging upside down in the boot of the car like a goddam bat, and couldn't get them out. Can anyone give us some details on how to get them out? The other alternative is if someone knows where to get some plugs that would be compatible, and I could easily reverse the plugs. There's only about 2cm of wire poking thru to the boot. I'd rather try fitting some plugs than having to pull the sub out, and de-gluing various wires from the top of the parcel shelf so that I could have enough wire to splice and reverse. Any clues where I could get compatible plugs?

I always found 'sound' a lot less required in a manual than an auto. You could feel the revs through the stick, so you knew when to shift. Also I think you mentioned something about heel and toe in a manual. You can actually 'manually' rev match on downshift with a ZF. You just need to time your throttle blip right. There's some other things you may not be able to do with it, but then again, there's things in a manual you can't do in an auto. Back on topic, thanks to posters on here, I don't think I'll get my centre muffler removed on my bf2.

The July 07 and Nov 07 are usually referred to as "Upgrade". Check out redbook, it will tell you what was standard and what was optional eg Redbook.com.au 2006 XR6T BFII Optional Equipment 18" Alloy Wheels x4 Airbags - Side for Front Occupants Control - Dynamic Stability GPS (Satellite Navigation) Leather Seats Luxury Interior Pack Paint - Chromaflair Paint - Prestige Pedals - Power Adjustable Phone Mounting Platform Premium Sound System Prestige Sound System Reverse Sensing System Spare Wheel - Alloy Wheel Sports Leather Seats Sports Steering Wheel - MOMO Sunroof - Electric Tow Pack Class 1

Went through getting a bunch of quotes a while ago, so thought I would add this in. Included a couple of the 'newer' insurance places. There's probably differences between these guys in the fine print, but I tried to keep all the quotes as similar as possible. Basically, unmodified BFIII XR6T, no 'extras' (eg windscreen, hire car etc), no drivers except me (eg no underage), and $1000-1100 excess. I'm in Sydney North Shore area and a middle aged fart (don't call me an old fart!), so ymmv. aami: Ended up going with them as they were significantly cheaper - ~$800. Seems they are well regarded here, mod friendly if I get the urge. coles: Were about the same as aami, so I suspect they may be a rebrand from the same insurer? budget direct: About 25% more than aami. payasyourdrive.com.au: I was interested about this as I do low kms. They will happily let you spend 5 minutes taking all your details, and then when you click the 'Get Quote' button tell you 'we don't insure an xr6 turbo'. I told them what the car was in the first damn question!! cgu, nrma, youi and some of the other popular: Most about 50%+ more than AAMI Justcar: About 120% more than what I'm paying. They really don't want my business.... I think AAMI must be on a bit of a discount blitz for my area/car/age group. I don't recall them ever being the lowest cost....Worth checking out. BTW, I was thinking with all the bad things that happened in QLD, has anyone heard of any bad experiences with insurers re cars?

+1. With the hooks and mat installed properly, the mat doesn't actually go under the pedal, and the cutouts on the mat help align it properly. I can pull mine up, and it will miss the go pedal. As long as the hooks hold properly! My Mum, who claims she has never gone over 60km/h, still tells the story of when the throttle cable of the old man's V8 jammed wide open in a busy street. Scary stuff, and wouldn't wish it upon anyone!

I had my car tinted by Bob the Tinter a while ago. Being a fussy count without the o, I nearly freaked out the first time I washed it when I noticed a couple of small bubbles in one of the rear door windows. Never worried about it too much, as I was still was overall happy with the price for the job. And knew it might take some time (and sun/heat) before it all settled down. I'd forgotten all about it until the other day while washing the car, so I went 'bubble hunting'. Nothing. Sweet!! My car gets better with age

About another 2 weeks?