Jump to content

finnas

Gold Donating Members
  • Posts

    105
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by finnas

  1. jet does a massive 39mm port. To do this im pretty sure you have to do some extra work to get it to set properly as the original seat will be completely gone. So if someone is thinking that big definitely pay a pro such as JET. 35mm is achievable by the well equipped DIY'er with a good eye and a steady hand and a 37mm ebay flapper. You can port and leave 1 mm of the original seat and not have to clearance the side of the housing/make a flush seat etc. Having said this, a 39mm port will flow 20% more than a 35mm port, and anyone that has ever tuned these things know the internal gate is a pain in the ass with gear changes. Bigger port better boost control and faster gear changes as the torque requestors are a lot happier. If anyone is doing this and reading this... make sure you open up the throat on the short side radius too. Think of it like head porting but you always have fast air coming in. just my 2c
  2. As soon as you've either replaced the stock air box or cut it open at the bottom you're gonna get so much more induction noise. If you've already done that then turbo-side is the next logical step for actual performance gains but yeh soooo much more induction noise without the muffler and and the stock air box. It's a trade off. Personal preference with how much 'noise' you want and if you wanna get that last 15-20hp out of ya setup.
  3. Seconded. Hit them up on fordforums. Gave me a super deal on brembo 6 pots for the front. Delivery was 4 days to perth.
  4. If it doesn't increase or decrease with revs then hopefully its not rotating assembly. Loose header bolts, maybe? They will rattle the manifold at cold start coz of negative timing and disappear up in the revs. Harmonics etc. worth a look.
  5. Stock, believe it or not. Sits really well.
  6. Hahaha... only way I found is to not drive it Nice setup. How do they go? I almost pulled the trigger on them but the got a great deal on the brembos from RBS.
  7. That came around quick... Maybe if the weather isn't sh*t(not looking good so far).
  8. Rims: Hussla 'Lit' Fronts: 20x8.5 +20 Rears: 20x10 +40 Wheels: Bridgestone R050 Fronts: R20/30/245 Rears: R20/30/275
  9. haha cheers, but I was talking about the brembos. I will do that now
  10. PCMtech have 2 step capability. If you have a look over there you might get some ideas around what you are trying to achieve within the Haltech system.
  11. Thata boy! 'Last of the updates' - we'll see
  12. Not at all. Everyone has different wants and needs. You might not want to fry the tyres at stop sign 😛. The gtx3576 at 12-14psi is a good balance for not having to worry about traction or getting wider tyres. You laugh at the Touareg. But I just bought a Passat r-line. It’s a good compromise of everything. Still have the falcon thou hahaha
  13. GT3576, GT3582, GTX3576, GTX3582 Those are you main choices, all sharing the same rear housing. Just comes down to budget(if there's one), how fast you want to spool, and top end. To me the GTX3576 fits perfect and lose nothing down low even with the lower boost.
  14. Freaky only cares about other peoples money coz he doesnt want you to end up broke like him. It's coz he cares. You should thank him for his insightful advice. Even though the ford tMAP is a 5v sensor. Ford have it set to 4.85v in the tune. I guess this to ensure if there is a fault that the car is able to detect an overboost and protect works correctly. I found that at anything over 16psi would cause error conditions( either overboost or underboost) to occur and cause a rip saw between the two. It seems that it is a common thing done by tuners to set this to 5v which allows to ignore the upper limit of the sensor and ensure that the full measure can be used. Even though it's the standard fix, good luck finding much on it , seems to be a trade secret.
  15. Not much too learn from you mate. Other than not to be poor when modifying cars coz it makes you bitter and jaded. Maybe I should part my car out so you can feel like you've made all the 'right' decisions. Seems like there's only one way to do things. Must be why your always right. Hows that working out for ya.
  16. 2.2k off ebay with rear. Installed last night. And I'm back up and running. Just got to touch the tune up a little as the boost comes on differently and holds better in the higher revs. It's induction noise is much more refined than the powerspirit. Less boy racer more bmw m3 hahah. Car off the road for 5 days is a pretty good turn around.
  17. Party time. Looks like I'll be up and running tonight. woot
  18. In other news, I've sourced a new Genuine GTX3576 gen 2 for stupid cheap. Just over 2k Complete and is getting overnight-ed ex-east coast. So with any luck the car will be back on the road thursday night. If I had budgeted originally for a genuine GTX I guess I'd still have money for another powerspirit or 2 plus the dead one 😄 . Maybe a spare mamba? no? Anyways, im going to rebuild this Powerspirit and get it balanced. Use it in another car. Cheap, easy fun. Seriously the baby GTX is so fun. Response and spool just puts a smile on your face haha. Can't wait to see how much better the GEN 2 is.
  19. UPDATE 3: Powerspirit GTX GTX3576 (KSRacingPRO) So... only just got around to pulling the turbo off. Pretty good at it now 😄. Got it down to around 40mins with a bit of mucking around included. As expected KSRacingPRO has been silent at the moment on my email to them about warranty etc. I'll try them again tonight but not holding my breath. I have attached images of the damage. All in all, its not that bad. Only 3 fins managed to rub the housing. Rear housing is fine. Shaft out and "there's your problem" Flaps just coz everyone loves a good flap Conclusion: Cheap chinese bearings gave way in my Powerspirit GTX3576 from KSRacingPRO (SEO ). Turbo is well oiled. Everything is coated. I have logs of all my tuning and daily running and oil temps, water temps and ERGs are all well in check.
  20. If you don’t want to cut anything it’s a good option. But I highly recommend the PW stage 2. It’s about the same price. You don’t actually have to cut that much but also you have to think about whether you care about defects.
  21. I had to check coz you made me think I was wrong. They don't run the V10 anymore. Not that that was a terrible motor. I guess emissions forced them to go twin turbo v8. Not sure if they are garretts though. So might not make the cut? https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2018-audi-rs6-performance-auto-quattro-my18/OAG-AD-17412277/?Cr=0&gts=OAG-AD-17412277&gtsSaleId=OAG-AD-17412277&gtsViewType=TopSpot&rankingType=TopSpot
  22. 😄 not wrong. should have bought as rs6
  23. TBH it was worth the experiment. $700 after selling my broken gt3576. So if it had held in for any length of time, for the price of a secondhand stock turbo, it was pretty good. Just a pity about the reliability. Might have been a one off fail, but it failed. And now anyone googling Powerspirit GTX3576r Turbo will have a good rundown of what they are like and what the 'warranty' and service is like from those selling them. Yeah, no skin off my neck. Massive inconvenience but if it wasnt this it'd be something else. Still deciding what I'm going to do. Big price difference between anything and a genuine garrett 🤣. Could test out quite a few eBay turbos for you boys. hahaha. Picture just because
×
  • Create New...
'