finnas

UPDATE 2: Not good news 😕 The power of the spirit has let me down. 5 weeks running. ~2000kms No indication of any issues before it died. Was running perfectly yesterday when I turned it off. Driving to work today, loud whirring noise and no boost. immediately parked it up pulled off the cold side piping and spun the wheel by hand. Spins like a really bad bush bearing turbo and clearly not around its axis. Compressor wheel is touching front housing but does not seem to be rubbing the rear as far as I can tell. At the moment seems like a complete and catastrophic bearing failure. Oil feed is fine and coolant fine too. I'll know more when I pull it off this weekend. Haven't been having much luck lately. Not gonna let it get me down . I've contacted the ebay seller to see what they are going to say. I'll keep everything updated here for anyone considering whether its worth trying an ebay turbo out. I was hoping for at least a year out of it before having to deal with this. So yeah, funtimes.

sure can

xr6t with a rotary 🤣

I'd be more worried about your oil pressure gauge. That ain't right

Stock actuator is 3 or 5psi IIRC. Generally, "rule of thumb" is actuator spring is half of max boost. I.e. 14psi Max boost. 7psi actuator. Having said that a lot of people install 12psi Actuators. But doing this means lowest commandable boost level will be 12psi. Best to see what the tuner recommends. He might be able to tune it with the stock spring to your power level. Your biggest problem might end up being the stock wastegate port.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Harmonic-Balancer-Puller-for-Ford-Falcon-AU-BA-BF-FG-6-Cylinder-barra/113634196043?hash=item1a75203a4b:g:BrAAAOSwA1da5~dP&frcectupt=true

I think you'll struggle getting the last two in, if you're doing the 'no head service' method and just switching the head bolts out. If you're putting the studs in and putting the head on over the top... well, just open your bonnet and try and visualize that hahaha. I did studs and am around that power atm. But I had to do a gasket anyways so I pulled the motor out to do everything. Plus I've found that you always want more so for the little extra effort and cost may as well do it now and not have to revisit later. As for the flex plate I believe the main issue is the bolts coming lose before it cracking. But im not sure at what power level this becomes an issue or if it is always an issue. I just made sure I did mine up properly. also if you pull the motor out you can do a sexy paint job

Sorry, hadn't seen this. Yeah that's what I meant. Mine is installed into a sandwich plate on to the oil filter and a wire grounded to the back of the alternator. But the above should have the same effect if its all grounded correctly. Did you end up getting it going in the end?

So been awhile, but I hate when people don't report back😂 I ended up with the Powerspirit gtx3576. As with most things it needed a bit of modding to fit it up. I think this is the case with all gtx's, don't quote me on that. Actuator bracket needed to be re-drilled and to line up properly with wastegate and stock turbine housing needed a tiny bit of 'machining' to not touch the turbine. But all went well and is installed. No power figures yet however it is amazing. I'm running 16psi atm. Not really wanting to turn it right up right now while weather isn't great. The spool on this turbo needs to be heard to be believed haha. Instant boost, no lag whatsoever. Still fine tuning the wastegate DC and getting the curve right for this turbo. Upgraded the intercooler to the PW stage2 cooler as well. So nice not having to battle with ignition retard. Thanks to everyone that gave advice and JET who came through with the atomic stuff making my life easier.

I had the same issue with this exact same gauge. Im guessing that when the pressure sender that comes with the kit was installed, it has had some thread sealant put on it. Either that or oil has coated the thread in to the block. Either way the sender earths via that connection. To solve this I ran an extra wire from the bottom of the sender where it screws into the block to another bolt on the block. Just to make sure it earths properly. Fixed it straight away

I got a ebay turbo in the mail. gtx3576 (power spirit) for 1k. I tossed up between the gt3582 journal bearing for 360 odd and the ball bearing on for 600 odd for awhile. My turbo was making the same noise yours is while it was spinning down. So I decided replace it. Baseline was a used gt3582 for around 600-800 depending on condition. But that was pot luck same as trying an ebay turbo. I guess we will see how it turns out.

I had this in mine about 3 years in to having it from new. Ended up being a new centre being replaced under warranty. The funny thing is that if I hadn't being doing freeway driving everyday I wouldn't have even noticed it as it only happened between 80-100. 110+ it would disappear again.

@JETURBO, I think your mailbox is full. "cannot receive mail". Either that or @k31th has blocked you 😄

hahaha oh wow. I watched that the other day didn't realise I follow brent and PFI. Good valve entertainment Yeah, fingers crossed it fits in my rear housing all fine. I've ported mine to 36mm. I hope that's big enough for the gtx.

So true... but I'm a sucker for punishment You missed the POWER SPIRIT 😄

Fair price for him 2.5k, fair price for you 1.8k But yeah you will definitely need different rims. The only thing stopping me doing the same.

Hahaha, only if he says its okay

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/POWER-SPIRIT-BALL-BEARING-GTX3576R-650HP-TURBOCHARGER-T3-VBAND-UNIVERSAL/362557752378?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 there you go @MattyP One way or another there will be lessons learnt haha. Pulled off the turbo the other day and looks like I've got coolant in the exhaust and the rear housing of the turbo is green. I'm thinking this is because my head my have been lifting when it was boost spiking.. (22-23psi on gear changes.) I havent been losing any water since. However, im going to get headstuds. Which now has sent me down the next stage rabbit hole. If im doing headstuds... I assume that I have to pull the head off and do the gasket and get the head faced? If im doing that, I may as well do the valve springs and the oil pump gears at the same time? Are my assumptions correct 😬 And if all that is correct, can I send @JETURBO a shopping list 😄. Or any good suppliers recommend for atomic/arp stuff for price and service? This thing is going to be off the road a bit longer than I expected haha. Always the way. I really should do a build thread. Its been a bumpy but fun road so far

Thanks for the help guys... So I might have done something silly 😬 Drank a little too much the other night and bought a "Power Spirit" GTX3576 off ebay... Time will tell if it was a good buy or not. Might end up having to buy genuine one later 😅

Welp... she finally succumbed to age and abuse. 140k is not bad I guess. Forcing my hand to go for a gtx3576 instead of modding this one 😅 . Does anyone know what these are going for these days.

Any comparison data? Before and after I mean. I’m assuming spool would be the same but did you get any better top end?

Yep... seems to be the go. Either that or secondhand GT3582. Looks to be quite a few floating around over here at a reasonable price.

Ahh, cheers. I figured that this would be the case. I'll give them a yell to see if this is worth doing. So further info on doing this, Keith is right housing needs to be machined. GTX3576 wheel will fit the shaft and the bearing housing relief. Still not too sure if a 3rd party(kinagawa/mamba) frount housing will go on the garrett turbo or whether the GTX3576 one will fit. But from what im seeing it looks likely. Ideally was hoping to get away with just needing a balancing and just smash a billet wheel and GTX housing on and be done with for 500-600.

Hi guys, Just wondering if anyone knows some good shops in Perth that would be able to balance and port the stock front housing of a gt3576 to fit the gtx3576 wheel. Or whether its possible to use a gtx3576 front housing to save having to port the stock one. I've trying to find info on whether the seal plate of the stock turbo will work with the gtx wheel but struggling to find answers. Obviously would still need to get balanced. I can thank @MattyP for putting me on to this path. Seems like really good bang for buck. Any pointers are appreciated

stock factory ford plugs gapped to 0.8mm