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My results are pretty close to actual track times - I am using a Pro RR... Usually better than 0.1 sec accuracy. It is usefult o ;calibrate' you mph with a track result in relation to pitch angle and also you 60' with runout. cheers, Ben.

Hi Lucifer, I would go the edit for sure! I gained about 50rwkw (250 - 302rwkw) on HPF's dyno from as came in vs after edit (with the APS Phase II and valve springs). The edit was the only change made. The APS dyno had me at 268rwkw I think from memory. The total result for me was MUCH more satisfying, the low down torque much stronger, and provided better fuel economy and felt 'smoother'. One of the best things I ever did. Based on my experiences I would recommend you find yourself a good edit tuner! Cheers, Ben.

Never had any problems... If it breaks and is related to a mod - I pay for it - no problems... well no questions anyway... If breaks and wasn't related to mods, Ford fix - no problems... Simple really... The other thing to keep in mind, is my undserstanding is the flasher only rewrites part of the code - so you are not completely reflashing the ECU - only the segments across which you are making changes... Cheers, Ben.

I think the advice in regards to getting brakes first is a good one - you need to be careful of offsets as well as diameter for you wheel upgrade. As for chasing more power - the first step should be edit, injectors and valve springs - then an intercooler. I love the Nizpro Cobra kit, and would highly recommend this if you want to go the kit direction. The APS gear is good quality, but many of the Cats have failed - mine included (I started with an APS phase II). Of the APS phase II kit (which cost me $5k) the only thing left on my car will be the exhaust Cat back shortly. This is a VERY expensive exhaust. I would look at cat only first, then dump pipe if going down the exhaust path... The stock unit works well bar perhaps the cat... Best of luck! Ben.

18's are about same $400/corner - 17's MUCH cheaper. You do get a better selection of tyres though with 18's

Firstly - there are NO issues with recycled water. That is a fact... And nothing to do with operator error. This is really simple - and much more eco-friendly than desalinating sea water as power requirements are much lower per kilolitre produced. The process is no harder than any other RO/ultrafiltration - is well proven and robust technology. This is a far more sustainable practice than the current water supply arrangements. This will happen, but is only likely when we do have some decent politicians with enough balls to put it in place, against the cry of uninformed individuals. If it makes you feel better, then think of it as removing the pure water from the waste stream - we are recycling the stuff that carries the poo - no the poo itself. There is NOTHING of the poo part in what is effectively recycled - it simply extracts the water from the rest. If anyone has seen even secondary treated effluent, you would understand that there is no visible difference with 'normal' water. The tertiary treatment that would occur for the final cleaning of the water for consumption would likely consist of ultra filtration and reverse osmosis, and the resultant process flow is very pure indeed. You are already drinking far 'pooier' water now - why do you think it is chlorinated - to kill the bugs and other harmful organisms that grow or are deposited by birds and animals. The ONLY issue with this are peoples lack of education and ensuing erroneous perceptions - first task for the government is to start changing peoples perceptions and educating the public... Just my 2c... Cheers, Ben.

Did your tuner suggest the cat was collapsed? Get a torch and shine it up your exhaust. See any gold flakes up there? If so, cat may have collapsed. New cat will solve it. Being an auto, I don't think 238 is too poor a result. Some engines are strong, some aren't so. What was your absolute stock power figure? Don't get too dissapointed with your figure... Instead, take note of how much power you have gained. ← Good advice! 'typical' power is in the order of 240's to 250 - so you are actually not far away - also bear in mind that peak power is typically towards the top end, so you mid range where you drive the car may not be down at all. Speak with the tuner - they should, as others have pointed out, be able to shed some light where the limitations are being reached - it sounds like boost (could be cat) or springs (related) - if it was injectors this would be obvious from leaning out afr's. Some more information in relation to max boost, boost and rpm at peak power, afrs will help... Cheers, Ben.

So says the bloke who came to Melbourne without his car....

So that's were the tyres I ordered went... only kidding....

Good thread guys... Don't know what I can add.... The exhaust manifolds Simon is making at the moment have been re-jiggeg to maintain the existing turbo compressor location, so they are completely compatable with the stage 2 cobra kit. These are a generally to suit a split pulse turbo, with external waste gate and have a different flange location as well, so the manifold pictured is not the current version for the BA from Nizpro. very good discussion... Cheers, Ben.

Seems cheap - rrp on the flasher is $995... You don't need the blow off valve, but a larger IC is a good option, provided it is a good one. I have no knowlegde of the one you are quoting, but others here might...

If you get the injectors from Nizpro, they are all tested for spray pattern and capacity... This is one of the reasons they are more expensive than just 'drilling'. The other advantage is the electronic's are stock so there is less to figure out in Edit - you just have to figure out the high and low slope numbers which is relatively easy.. Ohh... for what it is worth I will also have a set of 968's going cheap if anyone else is interested... Cheers, Ben.

For the life of me I couldn't find anyone that had billet gears available now while my engine is being done! Atomic are actually working on the whole oil pump replacement with a billet item - not just gears but it is a few months away yet. We will just have to curb revs youngy to about 6000 until then........... ← Speak with Nizpro... they might be able to help you with the oil pump dependant on timing requirements and there stock levels - they have been making them for some time now... AS for the turbo upgrade - this should be good for about 440 - 450 ish rwkw IF you have everything else in place... This means - stronger engine, completely difference intercooler and plumbing, exhaust etc... cheers, Ben.

Great stuff Robin! Your car is awesome, and I don't think and photos can do it justice. The car looks great in the photos, but even better in the flesh for those that have not seen it. The workmanship is also first class… This car is the full package with the grunt, handling, brakes and looks to suit. I particularly like the front intake vents and the back of the car looks super tough with the cobra and quad pipes… You are also a man after my own heart – must be functional! Does not seem to matter what I do, I always seem to be getting further behind. Damn it lol! Cheers, Ben

I would suggest a google search for most common kitchen substances to identify properties, and also establish what the composition of glycol and other anti-freezes are to look for similarities... The previous posts are correct, anti-freeze lowers the freezing point of water (obviously) - you will need to do the same. The key issue will be also considering the ramifications in the application. These will include: - ability to mix and stay in solution with water, at all temperatures - ability to operate at 100+ degree C temperatures (alcohol I suspect might boil at well below this) - impact of corrosion and material compatability - ie salt and other chlorine based products will attack metal, some others might not like the rubgber hoses etc... It is probably worth adding in the point about the fact that if there was a blizzard, everything would already be frozen, so too late! If you have identified a suitable product, an experiment might be to stick it in the freezer in a number of different dilution ratios, and try and take temperature readings regularly, and see at what temps it starts to freeze for each mix... just be careful not to contaminate any food! I would be VERY careful about heating anything to prove that it can operate at higher temps... I would not recommend doing anything like this. best of luck!! Cheers, Ben.

Hope all ends well Tiana! My thoughts are with you, and wishing you a speedy and complete recovery! Best wishes Ben.

Welcome to the mad house guys! plenty of good information - you just have to sift through it all and make your own decisions - in the end the material here is nearly all peoples opinion! plenty of good peoples though so try and get to some of the event that are held from time to time! cheers, Ben!

Saw that and Ice's write up! Top stuff Phil - I am sure it would be most flattering to have that sort of interest in your car! Well done mate!

Mmmm horses for courses... I also drive with the T56 and a 3.45 and like it. I am running the typhoon clutch and it is perfectly behaved at all speeds and take up in first no problems... minimum speed is first without getting on/off clutch is about 10km/h, this would be about 9 with a 3.73... having said that, I ran some errands for nizpro in their ute running a 3.73 and it was nice as well... I like the tall 6th - great fuel economy on the cruise, but you really want to be in 4th to pass... 4th will be identical to the T5, so if you change to a 3.73 you will be doing slightly more revs than currently... as for drags, refer to discussion about motive force in your other thread... A shorter diff will increase overall gearing, which will increase rate of acceleration provided you have traction, but will lower the speed at which you change... With traction, I would expect a shorter diff would actually be better for ET, and in a manual would allow you to ride the clutch for less time on launch which is also a good thing... You just need super quick gear changes... taller diff you be more forgiving of gear changes due to increase speed during change... Cheers, Ben.

nope - this relates to the factors the dyno uses to calculate power and force, but this has been calculated out by the dyno in the data you have! cheers, Ben.

Ok... You need to understand these things are related.... The dyno fundamentally measures 2 things, tractive effort and roller speed. The dyno software has been calibrated based on the known circumference of the roller, so can measure the 'speed' of the car - this is one of its basic measurements, and the reason dyno graphs are often presented with speed along the X-axis of the graph... Power is simply the speed in metres per sec times the tractive force. This is calculated by the dyno. Similarly you can calculate torque from the power as Turbotom has suggested. To do this at the engine you need to know engine speed in radians/sec. And yep to calculate this, you guessed it - you need tyre rolling radius, diff and gear ratio. These are the things that relate engine speed to road speed in a manual. For example, at 120km/h you are producing approx 266rwkw... this calculation would look like... 120km/h = 33.3m/s (divide by 3600 seconds in an hour, and multiply by 1000m in a km) using a rolling radius of 0.32m 33.3m / 0.32 = 104 radians/sec at the wheel Multiply by diff ratio and gear ratio - in your case 3.45, and 1:1 104 * 3.45 = 359 radians /sec at the engine Now 266kw = 266000W / 359 rad/s = 740Nm Conversion is slight more complicated because you need to input speed and power, all else is constant, where as with motive force, there are only constants… Make things clearer? Cheers, :banghead: Ben.

no problem... tire radius should be approximately (19*25.4/2 + 235*0.35)/1000 = 0.323 - say 0.32 to allow for some deformation on the roller... therefore conversion = 0.0927 so peak 'engine torque at the wheels' is approximately 742Nm cheers! :banghead: Ben.

Adam is close... Actually it is really simple... Nm is simply a measure of force at a 1m radius, hence the units - newtons times metres... to get Nm at the WHEEL multiply the tractive force in N by the rolling radius of your cars wheel/tire in m... for a 17" 235/45 this will be approximately .32m - not sure on the 19" fusions as I don't know what tires you have... For the dyno graph presented, you have a peak motive force of about 8000N in what is presumably 4" gear... this equates to 2560Nm at the TIRE IN 4TH GEAR using a radius for 235/45 17's... And - yes before the flames come this IS correct... torque at the wheels, unlike power, is completely dependant on gearing... To get what I call 'engine torque at the wheels', you need to divide by the gear ratio (assumed to be 1:1) and the diff ratio. If you have a MkII manual, then this should be 3.73... This means your engine torque at the wheels is about 685Nm... The torque curve will follow the motive force curve exactly, just with a conversion. The conversion number will change for each car dependant on actually wheel rolling radius, diff ratio and gear ratio if other than 1:1 is used... for a mkII manual on 17" wheels running 235/45 tires this should be 0.0858 times the motive force in 4th gear... hope this helps! :banghead: cheers, Ben.

might be worth clearing up a couple of things here... 1) the generic tunes are from CAPA - herrod MAY have something different, I have no idea one way or another... 2) if buying through a tuner, then you will need to speak with each about what they will offer. I would expect a 'good' tuner to refuse to alter the base tunes without doing so properly - this means putting the car on a dyno, logging fuel mixture, boost, checking for pinging etc etc ie - custom tune... 3) If buying a secondhand flash box, you need to ensure the factory map was the last map flashed from the unit - If this is not the case then my understanding is the unit needs to go back to the states to be reset. If this has been done I understand the unit can be reset via the advantage software which the tuners have... 4) you will also need to ensure the tunes in the box are the correct ones for your car. Each car has a processor code for the ECU - there are different processor codes for each model. You would need to speak with CAPA about costs for uploading the correct tunes... 5) Get a custom tune 6) get a custom tune 7) get a custom tune - have I emphasised that enough yet? IMHO this should not be an option - and don't nessisarily go to the cheapest - get a tune from an experience tune house who provide you with support and service best of luck! cheers, Ben.

You going to drive my car Ben???? Geea. ← You very funny man... happy to drive your car though