Dannopower

Hi Guys, Just pondering on a few minor changes to my ute. Car is a 130,000 km 10/04 BA mk2 with only the following- -BF/F6 bottom end, 65000km old -4 speed auto built by Kewish autos (with a 2500 kewish convertor) -Bosch 968 injectors, walbro fuel pump in tank -Modified F6/ss induction over the radiator intake -4 inch metal cat, stock ba dump, stock exhaust (mid muffler removed) -Original Hyperflow 100mm thick intercooler as pictures- - Tranny cooler and thermo fan mounted inside front drivers guard (where some of the under battery intakes sit) I can make 300+rwkw using 14+psi, but I can F@#k a gearbox real quick. For the last 12 months have been running 10psi 260rwkw tune daily driver andcan use 95RON fuel no worries. Just wondering, my battery is near stuffed and I was thinking of changing it to a gel type, and thought I may as well change the air intake pipes to use the space created on the drivers side. This would get rid of the cross over plenum. I was thinking of running a Plazmaman style airbox (with the battery in it) to the turbo, then running the hot side pipes upgrade to my intercooler. As you can see, my intercooler outlet is on the same side as the factory one, so rather than chucking money away and getting rid of it (as its a good product) I need some sort of piping to run it under the drivers headlight and across to the std intake plenum. I think process west make a sort of pipe elbow to spin the intake into the plenum, but I may be better off running a single pipe across the top of the exhaust manifold? I dont want to run more power than about 320rwkw, but I want to be able to do it without using more than about 12psi. do you think this can work and what other solutions are available?

Sounds great guys. So is this beast running yet? Are we finally gunna see something decent from the ford XR6T fraternity on the dyno at the nayts?

5 speed manual, the gearbox is sh*t, 4 speed auto wont hold much over 280rwkw in standard form, the rotors are crap, tailgate tub bottom seal falls off the utes, diffs are a little noisy, Front bars develop a sag like a 50yr old hookers ass, handbrakes are rubbish, need constant adjusting, ford dont change the oil supply to turbo line filter in any of their servicing, too many parts that involve plastic being threaded into metal Apart from these, they're awesome

Did you clean out or replace the oil supply line filter when you replaced the turbo? If its blocked with crap, then there's a good chance it stuffed your last turbo, and this one too! They dont last too long without oil supply!

Hi Guys, Just wondering, why did the BA GT's come out with a different offset for the rear and front? I think it may have had to do with brake options or something, but im pretty sure the rear rims will fit on the front of any sedan or ute provided they dont have a 6 piston front brake? Can anyone clarify this for me? I think the rears are 28.5mm offset and the fronts are 35mm offset? If they were going on a standards AU or BA is there any reason they wont fit on? Cheers in advance.

They sure have a good reputation, but theres nothing out there that seems to offer any answers for these 4 speeds. I have heard of a shop here in Canberra that has broken 2 nizpro built boxes. Lets face it, these gearboxes are great for cabs and not much else! if your running over 300rwkw, its better off budgeting in to you yearly running expenses a rebuilt gearbox and looking at it like changing a fuel filter.

So it seems after nearly 5 years with these gearboxes and the same problems in our cars, no one has got them sorted yet? I went through my standard one and then 2 toughened rebuilt ones from Kewish before my tuner and I got the message across to them to stop porting the valve body and put a standard one back in it. Havent had a problem since, but I have been running a 10psi tune @ 260rwkw since. I just got sick and tired of sending either my gearbox or my car to melbourne to get fixed, and since its my daily driver I only use my bigger tune for dyno days and some cruises.

Exactly right. My fiance and I bought our first house last year for $350k. I tried borrowing more money than I needed to include renovation works with the finance, but wasnt able to get it. So I started the work financing the reno's myself, and am still going. Its taken longer than I would have liked, but I dont have any extra debt, so no extra interest to pay. It should be ready in a few months, has cost me about an extra 50k but will add over 100k to the value of the property. Best thing for you to do is start saving right now. Work out what the repayments are on a mortgage for the amount you want to spend, and pretend your paying it off but put it in the bank. This will give you an idea of what your in for. Set up a high interest earning savings account such as ANZ V2 or Maquarie cash management trust, they should give you about 6% interest on your savings. Work out what the maximum you can afford to repay, take about 20% off that figure to allow for interest rate rises and anything that may jump up at you. Its always way better to borrow less and pay more off the loan than you need to than to pay off to the standard payments. This saves thousands and years off the mortgage. Remember, if you have less than 10% deposit you must pay mortgage lenders insurance, which can be added to the loan provided you have at least 5% deposit in most cases. Getting a decent deposit together after paying mortgage insurance, stamp duty, solicitors fees, loan establishment fees, building and pest inspections is the hard part. Just cause you may have 20% of the cost of the property keep in mind you will chew a fair chunk up with this crap. Good luck, hope this helps.

any chance you have pinched a fuel line putting the tub back on? So the pump is taking longer to get fuel pressure to the rail? You should be able to hear the Walbro whine a little when you first turn the key on before it starts?

Thanks Ian. I just thought from a mechanical workshop point of view, if you can do 10 cars with 5 sets of springs it would be cheaper. I didnt realize the existing springs were actually loosing tension. Makes sence to do em while your in there I guess.

Hi guys, Just a quick question that im sure some of you guys with more mechanical knowledge may know the answer for, but I was wondering why we change the valve spring on the exhaust valves? I can understand needing a stronger spring in the inlet valve, but the exhaust valve spring's only major job from what I can work out is to make sure its completely touching the rockers with the Cam lobes as they go around? Maybe im wrong, but the exhaust valve wont shut any quicker than the cam lobe will allow? Our replacement exhaust valve springs dont have any sort of dampener spring, so that doesnt seem like a reason to change them? I was wondering why it wouldnt be possible to just upgrade the inlet valve springs, meaning you can get 2 cars for the price of one box of replacement springs? Has anyone even tested the result of changing the inlet valve spring only to see if there is any difference in doing the exhaust valve spring? Cheers in advance. Danno

one of my mates was at WSID with his nice Black 300C- It got pulverised!

I thouight I saw CAPA with a high performace coil for these last year at summernats??

I talked to James Phillips for about 20 mins about his typhoon at Bathurst. He was busy, but a real Nice guy. He uses SCT tuning software to tune the car, even though their category alows unlimited ECU computer systems. ( He was adjusting the tune between races when I was talking to him) The only ecu changes are the addition to the engine of extra sensors to run the Motec Dash, not the ECU. The car is a stock Ba frame built from a shell, with Typhoon componentry. The engine must run standard fuel injectors, but the fuel delivery system is upgraded (understandably with a surge tank). The engine has the stock F6 air intake, intercooler, valve springs, intake plenum, turbo and housings etc. Its more stock than most of us on the forums. The governing body even issue and install a small valve between the inlet manifold and the blow off valve that they take from his car to check the maximum boost level is still standard in the car. I think he said it was a 9 psi maximum. The car is the most powerful in its class, I think he said depending on the dyno used its about 260rwkw. This was I believe its 1st ever outing. We should be wishing him well with this. Its good to see someone flying the Turbo 6 Cylinder flag for performance car racing!