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Is this under high load? could also be the wastegate trying to control (limit) boost...

The Nizpro guys say yes - just in case you ever wanted to - but would just need to correct spring and damper settings! ← The XR cant carry 1 tonne with stock suspension. Its limited to 500kg of payload, that's before you inc petrol in fuel tank and cabin occupants. Standard style side utes are rater at 750kg, and 1 tonne supension is only available on cab chassis vehicle, even then you have to minus the weight of the tray you put on it to get a correct payload figure. They do have an optional 8 leaf heavy duty shock absorber version from factory. This is easily up to the 1 tonne task, but it will jar your back if you dont carry weight in it all the time. ← You are 100% correct Tony!! perhaps I should have said you would need stupidly stiff springs and dampers, which would be crap for normal driving! This is clearly not the intent of what Simon is doing - perhaps I should have ignored Ben's stir !!!! Thanks! Ben.

The Nizpro guys say yes - just in case you ever wanted to - but would just need to correct spring and damper settings!

the Walbro GSS-341 is good for about 440rwkw at pressure (no booster pump/surge tanks) which is about the same as the bosch unit... They are around $300 for the pump and don't take long to install. I am chasing a tiny bit more than that, so will run a single one of these to a surge tank, then twin units to the main fuel rail from the surge tank. The fuel pump could only give you more power if you are currently fuel limited (if pressures are higher it might flow a LITTLE more through the injectors or if old pump is failing). My stock pump could support up to 360rwkw, and ran for about 30,000km at about 330rwkw, before it's performance started to deteriorate. Better to replace this up front for increase relaibility I think! Best of luck! Ben.

I'm in total agreeance. I believe that the massive (and sharp) torque hit the XR6T engine produces when modified, coupled with the weight of vehicle will prove to cause failure of the GTR rear end at lower levels than the stock components. Cheers, Ross ← I guess the proof will be in the finished product - I am sure at some point the ute will make its way onto both the circuit and to the drags. Last time it was at the drags it broke the Ford rear end - lets see if this one holds up. My money is on Simon the whole way and I am sure this will hold up fine! Cheers, Ben.

Hi Dave! not sure about that - I suspect it would be plenty tough enough, only thing that might require tweaking will be the spring and damper rates to suit the load charateristics of the falcon. The basic suspension cradle and all the other componants look plenty strong enough to me - I guess time will tell!!! Cheers, Ben.

BUT can it carry a full tonne?? and do we care.. ← Not sure Ben - I will have to check with "The Man" next time I speak with him...

That is basically the idea - plus he has a lot of exerience setting up the suspension on the the GTR's... Will be interesting to see just how good this all proves - if it goes into the sedan, It could well be my next mod... So says he still waiting on the current lot... Cheers, Ben.

As F6 Ute as pointed out - these rear ends hold up on some VERY high hp GTR's, and offer a much greater level of sophistication than the ford ute suspension, so add a lot more than just a stronger diff. Cheers, Ben.

LMAO Will be all new from the gearbox back - and you are right - the OMFG look if the service guys gets it on hoist would be priceless

I thought the good folk here might be interested in Simon from Nizpro's latest (car) project... Somewhere along the way, Simon decided he wanted to enjoy the benefit of a fully independent rear suspension set up in his ute. With all the difficulty in getting new CV's and half axles etc for the sedans, Simon decided that it might be an interesting exercise to slot in an R33 GTR skyline rear end - including the diff, all running gear and suspension into the BA... From all his experience with the Nissans, he basically expects this to prove extremely robust, handle 500+rwkw reliably, and he reckons he can make it handle at least as good, and probably better than the Ford independant set-up… At first, it was obvious there would need to be a few modifications required to make everything fit, but the job has ended up slightly more comprehensive than that… I walked in yesterday, and Simon’s first words were “Benno, I’ve had to cut the whole back of my car off *laughs*!!!!!” – this I gotta see I thinks – thought I would share for the amusement of all… Once the ute is done and test, a sedan might be next (should hopefully end up being easier)… What do you think - genius or madman???? Cheers, Ben.

Looks like I got it wrong - Called past Nizpro yesterday, and the 355 rotors and CSC calipers WILL go under your 17" Mk1 rims - seen em on Deans HgAg ute... Front only will cost less that the AP set-up.... Mmmmmm big brakes... Cheers, Ben.

good fun had by all I think - one incident at the end of the day which was a little unfortunate - but all in all good - and no it wasn't me... I certainly got a lot out of it! Cheers, Ben.

Hi Simon, AP generally make good gear from what I have heard (but that is not that much... ) - you will likely be limited to about 330mm rotors or perhaps a fraction bigger if you sick with the 17" - is yours mark 1 or II? I think the offsets on the mkII rims make it more difficult to fit bigger breakes under - Nizpro will be able to confirm... The CSC's are good units and should have plenty of readily available pad choices - I would check the pad options and costs for the AP's (or any caliper) before buying them. What disc size are you contemplating to go with them? Cheers, Ben.

I expect the exhaust as indicated will be a MAJOR hurdle to making any sort of power - including matching stock power levels... New exhaust time or re-install the stock exhaust with a good cat - this will flow enough for 300rwkw. If you are chasing that sort of figure I would highly advise getting valve springs - I am supprised you have not had major issues with these given your current exhaust...

No wonder you can't get much power - put the stock exhaust back on - this is twin 2 1/4 and should flow much better than a single 2.5!!!! If you are replacing the exhaust you need 3.5 minimum (even 3" as our indiicated is going backwards relative to the stock system), or twin 2.5's - standard cat is usually the restriction, but in your case you might have a whole new level of restriction - so to answer your original question, yes IMHO you would be well advised to replace the exhaust before fitting the bigger injectors - otherwise I beleive you are wasting your time. Until you get the stock system (or something that will breath a lot better than a single 2.5) back on you will find it much harder to make good power - this will also stress valve springs and have other ramifications... Best of luck! Ben.

See - I just think you should "say NO to drugs... " just my 2c

That's the thing.. I prefer circut work aswell.. I've run mine around Wanneroo in 1.09 in the wet on road rubber. anything uner 1.00 in the dry is considered VERY good from anything, and I'll venture out on the next dry outing.. Regardless, a good time from circut or 1/4 mile is not only contributed to power, it's driver ability aswell as car setup. And no, not anyone can drive in a straight line.. otherwise there would be more than 2 cars running 11's. ← I agree, and my own lack of ability - or perhaps as well not being prepared to completely drive the car like I hate it is undoubtedly slowing me down - significantly. In effect, my changes are about .4 - .5 of a second typically (looking at the G-tech results at the impact of the change - the actual shift of the lever is a little bit quicker) - given 3 changes down the 1/4 this is about 1.5 secs where the car is not accelerating - this is much slower than some of the good drivers like F6 ute are managing (based on the vids posted some time ago) but goes to illustrate one of the reasons why the manuals are so much slower, and have lower mph than the autos. I is hard to belt these things through the gears really fast and those of us who are not really really good with quick gear changes are coasting for about 10+% of the time it takes to get down the 1/4. Anyway, I am likely to be about 6 weeks from getting the car back with the bigger turbo and engine etc - so in maybe 2 - 3 months I intend go to Calder and try to get a sedan into the 11's. Dependant on the rear end holding up, I will probably just try sneak into 11's - then push for better once I have a stronger rear in the car - probably with Simon from Nizpro or someone else driving the thing to give me a target... Hopefully the power I am running will help compensate for the poor gear changes. I am gunning for you Ben - now I just need to make a final decision on what clutch to run... :banghead: Cheers, Ben.

I have to say will probably install both a GSM alarm and a sat tracker in my car. I appreciate that both of these can be bypassed, but that doesn't mean I want be notified, and maybe can do something about it. With the mods I will have shortly (engine, turbo, extractors, cobra kit, exhaust suspension, brakes etc etc etc all of which cost more than the base car is worth now) I want every chance to recover the vehicle I can possibly give myself. This is in my opinion worth the additional dollars... Still looking at options... Cheers, Ben.

awesome... will be very interested in the mid range response with that nitto plenum and bigger turbo... - should have an unbeleivable top end though... do you have any pics of the exhaust manifold???? Best of luck! Ben.

Good stuff as always Robin. The new curve has a much more linear mid range indicating a much flater torque curve. I think that is definitely the way to go, and as you say makes for much better drivability and predicatability... Cheers, Ben... PS my pistons have finally arrived so things might start moving in the 'coming to get ya' stakes

Based on your earlier comments, you are in Melbourne, so at the least you should speak with HPF and Nizpro along with any others should you choose, and make your own mind up... best of luck - hopefully you will be delighted with the results!

I am hoping my will be there before too much longer...

My results are pretty close to actual track times - I am using a Pro RR... Usually better than 0.1 sec accuracy. It is usefult o ;calibrate' you mph with a track result in relation to pitch angle and also you 60' with runout. cheers, Ben.