arm79

Engine mount/s? Drivers side one maybe?

If this is the one that was originally in WA, then its one of the few I was thinking of that were delivered to owners in 06. If I remember rightly, the guy took delivery in early December 06, loved it so much he went out and ordered another one for the hell of it. And I think it was delivered by christmas 06. This was the info I was looking for to re-educate Russell with regards to the figures he quoted, as I know they are wrong. Even the total build count he listed was wrong (I've since found out).

Sounds like good old Ford. Had the same probiem with my Force, as you can see below. Mine was more of a greeny/yellowy tinge. Ford denied the claim straight away saying it was within acceptable limits. I bitched until the agreed to respray all the plastics. Cost Ford $3250... You think they would do it properly in the first place. Have found out since that the platics are painted offsite at Venture Plastics, using different brand paints. So there would never really be a chance to match it. So keep on complaining, they will give in.

Well.. You did say manufacturer, and the manufacturer recommends mineral oil. I thought I was pretty clear, no one knows, and no one party can recommend anything apart from their personal preference. If anyone actually does know, they aren't sharing the information around. For instance, when I was looking for a dealer to service my car when I first got it, I rang around a few of the FPV specialist dealers and had a variety of answers. From 10W/30 Magnatec, to something synthetic, to 10W/60, to 0W/40, to whatever is on the shop floor at the time, to whatever we put into the XR6T's - they are the same engine. Even after the dealer I take my car was told by FPV to put 10W/60 or 0W/40 into an FPV turbo engine, I still ended up with Mangantec crap because as far as the shop floor is concerned, runny slippery stuff is fine. OK for a lease car, as its the next persons problem. But for those of us who want to know and take car of our cars, not very helpful. So not even the shop floor or their service managers could provide an adequate answer. So its not as easy as saying, "go ask the dealer". They don't know.

Well... If I read my genuine owners/servicing book, the MANUFACTURER recommends a MINERAL 15W/40 oil. My understanding this is the next quickest way to a blown turbo to running no oil at all. If you ask a dealer, a semi-synth 10W/30 will do the job, as that's what goes in an XR6T. If you ask FPV directly, their verbal answer is a 0W/40 Castrol Edge, as promoted in my owners pack. If you ask Castrol directly, their answer, like their books, is a 10W/60 Castrol Edge. If you ask the the right people at Castrol and FPV, this is apparently the answer FPV should give you. So feel free to pick one for me. All I did was put all the options into a hat and drew out a winner. It was the only way I could decide.

If you read the Ford manual (mine is an FPV, so the manual may differ) it actually recommends a 15/40 mineral oil, which as we know is a big no no for these poor turbo engines. I'd expect they specify mineral to keep the advertised service costs down, when in fact the dealers usually put in a semi synthetic. In an FPV, a mineral 15/40 is used for the inital fill only, then its expected to be changed to a synthetic, but the book doesnt say that, and most of the dealers don't know that either. I started using the Castrol 10/60 because it was recommended by Castrol, and subsequently found out they worked with FPV to develop this oil specially for the FPV turbos. Reason being, it is a turbo, it runs hot and owners are expected to rape and abuse their cars, sometimes on a track (This is from FPV themselves). Whereas they recommend a Magnatic 15/40 or 10/30 for the XR6T's... Same engine, etc, etc, so go figure. If a 15/40 oils weight is 40 at 100 deg, what is it at 110 to 120 deg. 20? 30? So their theory is to start with a higher figure and when you do hit those temps, the oil doesn't thin out as much. At 120 deg it might be equivalent to a 40 weight. I have since put a Mobil 1 0/40 in, and I have noticed the engine feels a tad freer and gets sightly better fuel consumption, but after a general on road flogging, the oil pressure gauge sits alot lower then when using the Catrol oil. I know these gaugues arent meant to be accurate, but they do provide a general feel of how things are going. I did read that thread, and it was very imformative, and also continued on with my own research. So there is no set oil for these engines. Yes the 0 weight is a waste in our climate. But you need to buy what best suits your driving needs/style, not what the book says. Next time I do an oil swap, I'd prob consider the Nulon oil everyone else uses... But I do get concerned when I see the oil pressure gauge take a dive when I'm stopped at the lights. Also, if we all followed the book, chances are we'd see a shed load more failed turbos.

I'm assuming an XH has the same diagnostics plug in the fuse box that an EF/EL sedan does.. If so, you need to short the left most pin on the upper row of the plug with the left most pin on the lower row of pins. This will put the ECU into self test most. After a minute or 2, once all the tests are completed, the ECU will go into base timing adjustment mode. You will notice it because the engine will seem to stumble a little for a moment, bounce back and eventually idle roughly. You'll also see that if you put a timing light on the car and shine it on the balancer, and you rev the engine, the timing mark will stay still. At all other points of the ECU self test, the timing will move as per the ECU. Once it enters base timing mode, you have 2 mins to reset the timing before it automatically exits and returns to normal mode. This is THE ONLY point where you can correctly set base timing. If you attempt the adjust the timing at any other time, other than base timing mode, the timing will be way out. The procedure I listed before is if you have removed the dizzy and how to get it back close enough to base timing to be able to start the car. Then you will need to do the above to 100% correctly set the timing.

The cam timing is all set by marks the sprockets, etc. And isn't adustable. To set cam timing, put the crank/balancer on TDC. There is a cast mark on the front of the timing cover you would have seen. On the cam sprocket, you are looking for a dot on the outer edge of the sprocket. Its like someone has used a centre punch to make the hole. The dot is parallel to the cam dowel, so its easy to find. This dot must be approx 3mm above the line of the head when the crank is at TDC. Wrap the chain around the sprockets and that's it. that's cam timing set. If you want to get it perfect, you'll need an adjustable cam gear, but I have never met anyone with the original Ford specs. So you'd never know. Ignition timing is a bit more fun, but you will need a timing light to get it right. On the lower cap of the dizzy there is a start and finish mark. You need to slide the dizzy into the block with the rotor pointed at the start mark. As it slides onto the aux shaft gear, the rotor will spin. Once the dizzy bottoms out on the block, you need to point the rotor at the finish mark and bolt it down. That will get you close-ish to the right timing, enough to start the car... But still could be upto 10 deg out, which can be deadly for an EL. Good luck.

These guys are the distributors (obviously) http://www.championparts.com.au/. They used to sell in bulk if you asked, as they used to package the stuff at the place you bought it from. And they used to sell direct to the public from their joint in Arden St, North Melbourne. So maybe give them a call and see how you go. I remember I got a stack of scrivets and those crap christmas tree plugs there fairly cheap (compared to a retailer anyways).

Nope. Takes less than 5 mins and 1 wire. But apparently it makes you, and I quote a retard mate of mine, "the worst FPV owner ever".

What an awesome day for a cruise... And was great to get out and meet some new F6 drivers. Warm and sunny made for an awesome drive and Portsea is always a great place to go. Nice beaches and a great on the way perve.. Just a shame we couldn't get an outside table at Portsea pub. Probably lucky as I'm pretty sunburnt as it is :S Got a few pics, the start of the best ones are below. I'll post the rest up during the week when I get a chance. Starting off at Epping On the way Top of Arthurs Seat The view from the top On the way back down View on the way back down I have all of these in higher res, so if anyone wants the bigger versions, let me know and I'll send them.

Post 26 of that thread started with something like this: "Here is a link to the map for the cruise folks, the only thing that I might change is the meet times to 8am with the departure at 8:30am, so an extra half hours sleep LOL" So yeah, just need to confirm. Wouldnt want to turn up and everyone has gone. I think its to early too, only cos I'm a lazy p$^@k who likes his sleep, but gotta do what you gotta do. Worst case you could run a Phillip Island cruise I suppose

Are you sure? The other post says 8am meet with 8:30am depart. It may have been changed without us knowing, but that was the original plan listed in the other cruise thread. So just wanted to confirm.

I'll second that... Top guys and excellent products. Will cost a little more than your autobarn and supercheap stocked brands, but worth every cent.

All front B-series brakes are 2 piston. Stock BA Turbos came with the same brakes that every other car in the Falcon range had, but had an optional Performance Brake system, which was the bigger front calipers and rotors. Same brakes that were on the original Typhoons. For BF, everything bumped up a level, and the T's and XR8's got the performance brakes as standard, but with a (supposedly) vented rear disc. The other Falcons stayed with the same brakes and the Typhoons got Brembo's as standard.

I'd go the Force 6... No questions... But then I am biased. Although a 7k price difference would be a tough one to get past. I would have thought 1 or 2k, but not that much. I probably wouldn't have bought mine if it was $7k over the price of the F6 I was looking at too. But it is nice to know they seemingly are holding their value. If you're going to buy the wreck, you'll have to make sure you get it from the insurance company. If it goes to auction, chances are it will end up at FTG Auto Salvage in Melbourne.

The unfortunate thing is Ford will void that warranty if they see the car has been taken beyond what it expects of the cars limits in a private ownership situation. I've seen it before, and in that case, that poor bloke is out a transmission.

Had 11,000km on it... And I think the G6ET's get the premo brakes from the BF range. As in the 322mm rotors and bigger calipers. NA's have the old 298mm setup.

Whatever they are, they just don't feel upto the task. After having a FG XR6 rental for all last week, I was suprised at how sh*t alot of things in the car felt, particularly the brakes. The brakes in previous B series rentals always felt stronger and much more consistant. And of course, the Brembo's crap on them all, so I can understand them wanting to upgrade the brakes for cop use.

And Feb 21st is the Geelong All Ford Day... To which if you don't attend or show off your vehicle there, you truely aren't a dedicated Ford owner and should be shot.

I wouldn't. The allure of owning an ex-chaser goes out the window when you need a new diff or trans. Not saying all are like that, but the potential is greater.

It is entirely possible. I did it last week coming down Arthurs Seat into a corner. Mine seems to have an overly sensitive downshift, but what I would assume be a normal upshift. On this occasion I wanted 2nd and shifted into it, but there was a bump in the road and I moved the shifter like 1mm and ended up in first with a lockup mid corner, and it didn't over rev. One of those totally unexpected things. Always meant to take the shifter apart and see if it can be made to be less sensitive, as I've been caught out before. I remember someone saying the 4 speeds used like a hall effect sensor for manual shifting. I wonder if the ZF's use the same or a microswitch. If they are just connected by wires, I'd expect you could just swap the wires to each switch/sensor, which would reverse the shift action.

I don't think Ford really changed the cushion design in any models between B series and FG, so chances are they should fit nicely. What I really want to know is if those same covers would fit the Ghia/G6ET style seats as well. They only made those covers for XR style seat models, but they would use useful for me for boatramp trips and the like. I need someone who has a set that would kindly let me try them in my car. If they fit, I'd be out buying a set no questions. And I'm pretty sure they only made them for front seats.

I know we've moved on a bit, but for future knowledge and stuff, I can tell you that the base oils used by Fuchs oils (engine and trans) are Castrol or Valvoline. Whether the oils are made specially for Fuchs, I dont know. But I was a tad surprised to see daily deliveries from these companies by tankers filling up their storage tank farm. The contents of these tanks then are used along the production line with various additives until they are pumped into a bottle. Not saying their product is bad, but to me if their base oil they are using is just something generic from a large refiner, then its only the extra additives they put in that make it special.

I take it you mean page 8? The one with the new map and stuff? This thread is only up to page 10...