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Can't reply from it now (Tapatalk) as it's telling me that I'm not signed in even though I can do everything bar complete the reply! @masda74 Surely they'd have to make meals specifically for your dietary requirements? I know the Army did and they are a useless pack of karnts whether it was Army run or civilian only messes it didn't matter as they just had to with approval!

Tapatalk being a champion!

As long as you're fueling up on food and you work a day job then that's generally enough to keep the muscle up as more muscle means more fat burning, that's the basic principle at least! You will plateau at some point but just keep doing what you're doing as weight loss generally isn't a quick process (if you want it to last). My best mate bought me multivitamins yesterday or Monday so I take one a day to please him if anything and will see if that gives me a pep up to do some things... I've yo-yo'd my whole life to from a gym junkie to 82kg and then up to 118kg was my max for almost 10yrs and now almost 89kg today with muppet arm (and legs) and custard guts lol. [emoji106] Yeah mate I used to swim almost 2yrs ago now as it's something that's easy for me with the back issues etc and just put some music on and do laps for an hour. You might be replacing fat for muscle so maybe do the pinch test or try a fluid cut for a day as like I said I can be 89 one morning and 86 the next and it's purely fluid in my case. Either that or your intake is more than your output (it's so easy to say that because in principal losing weight is simple but we all know how hard it is to lose weight). I can recommend "light and easy" as a mate and his wife are doing that and losing good amounts and there's no effort/preparation, just collect it all for the week and eat or heat and eat and bin the tub/tray and utensils so no dishes... He did say it recommended for him to high of a calorie so he cut it back (he was only 89kg to start with). I only recommend missing a meal purely because I was so bloated all the time as I was taught to eat it all from my parents and the Army was no different with scoff and run attitude...I believe the time frame is long enough for ketosis or whatever it's called also but only guessing there! Replacing your dinner meal for your lunch meal is also a good start which is generally less calories. Drink sh*t tonnes of water also.

Good stuff mate! I dropped 30kg in an unhealthy manner of missing one or two nights a week of not eating dinner (bloated to death) and then it snowballed into not eating period and I was just consuming coffee and water and nothing else... This approach led to massive muscle wastage over about 3-4 months and then at the 85kg point by then (I was 115kg+ originally) I started to eat a meal here and there as I had so little nutrients for my body to consume at that point (muscle and fat) that I had trouble doing anything that involved exertion I'd almost black out every time. This is while taking a lot of other various medications for other things. I ring around 85-89kg (generally at 88kg) now depending on fluid intake and a meal once or twice a week as my body tells me when it requires food other than coffee... The take away from all of that was, try missing a dinner or two each week and see how you feel as even then I dropped a substantial amount of weight while still eating lost that bloated feeling and I do nothing but walk my daughter to and from school each day which is only 2km all up and that's it!

I'm pretty sure the 3.5" system with a 4" dump pipe will flow just over 600rwkw (620?) with all supporting mods. Exhaust manifold like your 6 boost was the go and a built engine. That's what Zane from Maxx Performance said and posted it up on Faceboobs a while ago now... 4" will be drone central I reckon, unless you can build a helmhotz resonator targeting that frequency although I've never heard of someone doing it!

@Puffwagon When you finish tuning yours jump on a plane for a Nth Qld tuning visit [emoji12] I'm still considering (as I'm a gunna) either a large Chinesium wastegate off ebay or an actuated valve that is boost referenced. Split it 45° off the exhaust just after my gutless cat and dump it so I can keep the quiet-ish stock exhaust and it only opens under a set boost level (say 10psi)... That idea was passed onto me from Dave as well years ago who said that it flowed like a 4" exhaust but that the sound wasn't the most pleasant! Lol. I'm not keen on paying $2500 for the xforce system when I paid $1250 fitted for the full SS one on the sedan around 2006 and the only difference is a rear Varex muffler which are $500 but I've been told they are excellent, especially for highway cruising. On a side side note...how's that fake Covid scare! Some people are mighty desperate for attention these days...

If that rear muffler is the same as xforce used for the xr6t first time around which was pre 2010 before they switched to single straight through 3.5" rear mufflers then it's worth 2 psi. You could tell by looking through it from the 3.5" section when it was removed it was choked to like 1.5" either side... Dave Sheehy (blueboost and now CPV owner) was the one who brought it to my attention and I could have sworn I put pics up on this forum about it!? I had no cat also at the time with the split dump pipe.

Keep me in mind if you make your exhaust manifold and sell the 6 boost one! I remembered in Gary's thread you said that a barra in an R31 would be cool. I'm pretty sure "Bobby McBoost" (from YouTube) and his mates are doing it. Unsure who he is in the forums if any but he's in Tasmania and seems to be tuning (using PCMTEC) all his mates barra patrols etc...

Pretty sure they don't work with power outages, was at a mates place when the 3 phase went out and that was my first question to him while I was laughing... Fuji would have been my last choice these days! I had 3 in my house and a mate with a new house had 9 which he now has Mitsubishi instead but also said they were no better. Insurance replaced one of mine with a Daikin and for cleaning things like the drum disassembly was something they thought about! I live in an old high set so mould growth is the king here... Nothing the Karcher doesn't fix but! They're full of worms (hook I believe) so the animal needs constant worming not to mention the risk for a human also unless you wanted to lose some weight!

Ecoboost in them would be alright if they could handle the punishment. Everybody loves boost and tbh I'm surprised that every car on the market today doesn't have one due to efficiencies!

Yeah I don't watch any sports (UFC but there's almost to much of it) or motorsports (only YouTube and mainly drags, FullBOOST, HP Academy etc) but remembered seeing them on SBS Speedweek at some point in time and thought what a hoot they'd be! Racing Go-kart fun and they look the part also scooting around the track... lol. I'm Netflix and YouTube mostly these days and Pirate when I need to be. I try to look at Facebook but it's diminished to sh*t so badly with retards in every Ford group that I rarely help there anymore!

Insert barra into Aussie racing car (silhouette?) for unimaginable track fun I'm guessing!

I can take a pic of mine for you to use as the before shot! They don't shudder but look nicely grooved and glossy... I doubt they'd fit in the father-in-laws lathe and I'd rather poke my eyes out with a stick than use his (any) milling machine!

Replace with a higher strength rating or standard bolt if they have used a weaker one during the swap!? If that bush is fine and not phuked out then you should be gtg but check every bush closely using leverage.

Disconnect battery and turn headlights on, use a resistor or bulb with wire/alligator clips between the pos and neg battery terminals (not the battery! Lol) should lunch the flux capacitor fasterer...

Isn't the return line the restriction (in the pot itself) along with the stock fuel reg which you can drill out if you don't have an external reg setup. Aftermarket Industries have a drop in intank surge pot that will support bookoo power (haven't said bookoo in years...lol) but pull out your wallet! They support the new Bosch pumps and the Walbro's. Ai also have finished their undercar surge tank afaik but again it's not cheap... Aeromotive dual phantom or similar is supposedly excellent also, that's from a mechanic and long term racing bloke up in Cairns. He has it fitted to his territory but I believe he's upgraded all fuel lines to and from the engine (-6 feed and - 8 return) but again that kit is $1300+ and not just a drop in as he said to me. I'm torn with what to do on my F6X as far as fueling is concerned. I don't want to scrimp but I also don't want to pay a million bucks for it all! I can try and dig up the pics if you're interested.

What size Aeroflow did you go mate? I hope something decent sized for your custom exhaust manifold. I still can't decide whether to buy a Pulsar 3584rs variant or their G series copies (because I just want to blow some cash for no reason). Stock engine for me though and I think because I rarely drive it I'm going to stick with 98oct and look into this direct port injection water/meth seeing as I have a basic kit from Snow performance still. I'll have to use one of the PCMTec's strategies or one of the meth failsafe kits so it doesn't grenade itself instantly if the system decides not to turn on under full throttle... Lol. (In reality that's not funny even though I'm laughing inside!)

I think you'll be alright with just some steel plate added. You are an engineer after all so I'd hope common sense and mechanical sympathy plays a big part in decision making. The Internet tends to up play things more than they are due to social media's being instant access to the world. A few broken bolts, housings or cradles at the extreme are generally from people with decent power, full slicks (or a sticky track) and regular drag racing with little regards to components as a 60ft means everything. Break, fix, upgrade and repeat... Again, that's my two cents and the take away from my dribble above is, weld some plate because it's cheap, easy enough to do for piece of mind if anything and bro time with some beers on the job! Post pics once done... [emoji1531]

Most recommend the Superpro for the front side two and the main rear. Unsure of the tensile of the bolt but I'd reckon if it isn't flopping around as much than it's less likely to break due to flexing but that's my 2 cents on it. I'd think the hat would go first but as you said axle tramping will kill most things but it's less likely with unworn bushes. Decent control blade bushes made a difference also...

Before I forget...wrt smoking the front tyres when launching, what about an "up stop" (unsure what you call them on a car, droop limiter?) strap or other means on the front suspension? Unsure if it would work on a full size car as opposed to my experience with RC cars just differently! Chains or snatch straps bolted from chassis to the arms to stop the car lifting the front end? Probably violent and dangerous but anything for the cause [emoji16] Otherwise something in the rear (like the airbags) that resists squat to a large degree. Just thinking out loud...

I'm talking '04-'05 when no one knew what they were doing. I still had TSI piggybacks on both of my cars at the time and transitioned the xr6t to xcal1.

No issues with it in closed loop? Doesn't shoosh (that's obviously the tech-a-nogical name) on and off like they used to do back in the early days under half to three quarter throttle?

Check out Maxx Performance posts on Facebook. Zane has welded a few of these and with his territory originally. 6mm plate on a 45° from the drivers side of the bush housing and a small plate on the passenger side also. This is from my fading memory... Found it!

To rich for me with the "flash" speedflow fittings! I'll be using the standard ptfe hose if I can figure out how to u-turn them to the passenger front or rear door area. Brass barbs or my preferred method (1/2" copper pipe laying around the house) into Repco special rubber hose... The choice of champions!

Previous owner said it's an original PW stage 2 but unsure, I trust him on that though. It's fairly big but haven't got the front bumper off yet to measure it. Very similar to the Rapid cooler size (thicker I think?). IAT's are generally 10-12°C above ambient and ambient temp was 29 when I last drove the car. It's generally after I've driven to the shops (coolant only gets to 70 at most on the trips from home) and parked the car for 20+mins then start it back up. IAT's are at 45°C from then and unless I give it a squirt on the trip home (60km zone) it'll stay at 42-44 regardless. This seems to be the case even when the ambient temp is colder around 24... Thermostat is an 80 or 82 and fans come on at 82 and off at 80, trans stays at or below 80 with the stock heat exchanger still. I've built an air filter box out of corflute atm before I settle on design and thought it was because the SS hot side goes through this area that it was holding the heat but I wrapped it in "quality" silver insulation air bubblewrap from hello fresh (food delivery mob) and it made no difference which I'm glad I didn't exhaust wrap it first now! Summer heat will come soon as the temp is all over the place atm so if it goes to 60°C like it was without the airbox then I'll have to keep testing.