Full Monty

I leave Wi-fi and bluetooth off unless I need them, as it constantly searches for connections, draining battery. Also instead of Push email, set it to fetch every 30 mins. Saves a fair bit of battery usage. also if you havent, lower the screen brightness, as standard its blindingly bright. I have mine at 50% and its plenty bright enough.

Had a full Focal install in my last car, 165KP, with 11V sub, custom install doors / sub box, with Focal Plain chant sound pads and 3 layer dynamat deadening. Alpine HU and amplification. IMO Focal are in another league to Alpine speakers, just look at their manufacturing techniques, all done in house in france, and their home Hi-Fi grand Utopia range $100k plus speakers. All this expertise and tech, trickles down into their entry level stuff, the poly kevlar drivers are good, but if you can afford to stretch to the W sandwich "utopia drivers" do it...having said that, you need the back end to support it, ie amplification, wiring and install. Any one of these can let good components sound ordinary. I have heard award winning systems running off factory head units, so this shouldnt hold you back too much, just make sure it has decent amplification, at least 80wrms per channel to let them work to their potential. If you dont want to fully sound deaden the doors, at least install Focal Plain chant behind each driver, for an extra $100 or so, its amazing stuff, massively improving midrange clarity, by reducing rear wave reflections / causing distortion. Best thing is it doesn't add weight to the car. My old doors weighed a ton, and shut like a Mercedes "thud"

what about FFWD fast forward - fast ford. or could be miss interpreted as Fast Front wheel drive?

It wont be the cat that's the restriction - well maybee the 3" inlet-outlet will a little, but the 3.5" inlet version with 5" body 100cpsi flows over 800CFM (880CFM from memory). As others have stated, your single 3" system and 3" standard dump will be holding you back. but even the standard dump can usually support high 300's

Ive got the super pro diff bush, certainly does add to NVH levels, more pronounced clunks etc, as there is now an almost direct connection between the diff and chassis. On the upside, the car puts its power down more directly, feels more planted. also have the nolathane front lower control arm bushes, these are a must in the BA-BF. massive improvement in steering / braking feel through massively reduced control arm deflection.

Ive dealt with Howard on a few occasions now (they fitted up my AP racing calipers, rotors and braided lines), straight up guy, no bullsh*t - honest advice. I highly recommend all Vic members go see him for their braking needs. Their Brake pads are brilliant, I use the RB74's on the street with my AP front setup, with their comp2's in the standard rear calipers, so much better than bendix pads, and their cheaper!

wow, there must be next to zero back pressure to be struggling with a 38mm port and 8psi actuator...far out.

Nizpro did an open house testing day with about 25 ppl present around a year ago, lots of measurements taken, only a couple of different types though. infrared heat taken at marked points across the cores, intake temps etc. I have seen the live on screen graphs of a few cars similar power / setup to mine using different cores, before I made my mind up on which one I wanted.

Saw XRSCAR on the Eastern this morning at 9:30 heading into the city. Also a nice debadged gunmetal grey xr6T parked outside my work at Melbourne Uni for the past week, plates f6rd, must be one of the construction crew working here.

congrats mate, great result!

Cheers 6L ETA...Ive seen the "other" design (bottom to bottom) coolers run up on the dyno, have witnessed core temps being measured across the whole core with an infrared gun. Also seen comparison intake temperatures during a dyno run on the same amount of boost. It was clear to me, and others that witnessed it, that the whole core wasn't being used effectively, so you might as well have a smaller cooler. If all I cared about was bling, I would have saved some coin and mounted up a polished STG 1 cooler from some of the other manufacturers. But I care about performance, repeatable power (not just 1-2 squirts then 30kw drop) and this thing is the shnitz in that dept, super consistent, fark all measurable pressure drop across the core, and fark all temperature rise above ambient air temp. Im happy, and so are the hundreds of others using this cooler, and that's all that matters. finito.

The speed that the air is travelling, at 15psi and the fact that the cooler has just 0.5psi pressure drop, you'd be hard pressed to feel any induced lag from the length of the pipework over standard. Its probably marginally longer than standard, but greater diameter pipe work and cooler inlet/oulets makes up for that with increased flow. and when I upgrade to plenum on the next car, I would have the shortest pipe work of all the kits available for the xr6T, considering that the Nizpro cooler has offset endtanks, from the high outlet of the cooler, under the headlight to T.B would be all of about 50cms.

Mine is the Big muffler twin 2.5" version and have no fitment issues, just like standard. Havent heard any clunking etc from it, and it sounds horn!

its $1650 fitted, including all the nice stainless pipework, silicone joiners and stainless clamps, boost sensor adaptor. Please contact Nizpro for a supplied only price (if they do)... There is 2 hrs labour for them to fit it, and they know what they're doing, having done tons...would take yourself 3-4hrs at home on the driveway...might not be worth it for supply only, for the time it will take.

No plans for further mods on this car, as my aim was always to be able to make 300rwkw, with just bolt on changes, and still be able to revert it back to stock in a day. To go further, would require wastegate porting, actuator, intake changes etc etc....I don't plan on keeping this car for more than another 12 months or so, before I step into a typhoon or FG xr6T. It acheived everything I wanted, and by freeing up the intake and exhaust it feels effortless (felt a little strained with stock exhaust and monza at 15psi). but its a double edged blade, as freeing up intake and exhaust means im verging on facing boost control issues to go any further..hence the wastegate/actuator needing to be done to crack 320-330. I plan to transplant all this gear onto the next car, with a stronger motor possibly push it further. But 300rwkw is allot of mumbo, I think people forget just how powerfull these cars are at this power level (considering there is 400-500rwkw beasts now). As a daily driver, which my wife drives its plenty. (she's done defensive, advanced and high performance driver days though, and would out steer half of us).

There may have been more in it, but I told Dave I didnt want to push past 310-320 anyway (ba bottom end daily driver)

hehehe, you guys stick to your polished, centred, bottom-bottom feed coolers that only really utilise half the core, I'll go with one that performs the best.... (bottom-top feed) With the bar on, /grilles in place its hard to spot the cooler unless your looking for it, as its almost the same colour as my car.

Thanks fordriver, yeah it feels allot more than a 25rwkw gain...much more than that through the midrange. The Nizpro cooler is about as big as can fit without bending the aircon lines, cutting the support bar etc...and with the bar on barely noticable (the flash on teh camera highlights it) otherwise its hard to spot through the grilles. Besides, I'm less concerned with bling, than flat out performance and consistency. (7 degree intake rise over 14 seconds WOT)

Retuned yesterday by Dave at Nizpro, following the upgrade of the monza cooler to the Nizpro Big>Big cooler, and 2.75" hotside pipe / with stainless coldside piping. Was previously struggling to make 280rwkw, due to high intake temps at 15psi Following the cooler upgrade it made 304RWKW conservatively, with 2449 N.M at the roller. There was a bit of margin left in it, but would need the Actuator upgrade and Wastegate ported to push it more towards 320. I don't want to go that far with this car, as its has the BA bottom end. I was surprised to see Dave somehow managed to hold a super flat 15psi right up to around 4,800rpm, tapering off to 14psi with the standard actuator and small wastegate port. Im happy, power is really linear comes on very smooth but strong, turns the tyres in 2nd gear roll ons at 80kph now. (BTR 4spd) Mods are: Nizpro stage 1+ (Nizpro Injectors, Nizpro Valvesprings) Nizpro Big>Big cooler (3"inlet/outlet) and stainless steel coldside pipe kit Nizpro Large Hotside pipe kit Ballistic 5" 100 cell cat Xforce twin 2.5" exhaust Walbro GSS-341 intank fuel pump AP Racing Brakes standard crossover, plenum, actuator & wastegate. Second tune is a track safe 274 rwkw at 10psi (more timing advance, less boost) Big thanks to Dave and Simon and Chris at Nizpro. pics of install and a couple of shots taken a few months ago (before the cooler upgrade)

and she loves it! ^-^ Made 304RWKW, up from 280rwkw with a monza cooler! Heaps more timing advance was able to be put in, with the intake temps dropping by 35 degrees! Now the intake temp rises by just 7 degrees after 14seconds full throttle on the dyno...starting from just above ambient (25, and rising to 32)...crazy! I didn't need to go big hotside piping and inlet to reach my goal of 300+RWKW on this car, but it allows me to reach for big numbers with my next car (stronger bottom end. a couple of pics of the install

My old man always had simmons on his various worked commodores, I had a set of Charcoal B45's fitted to my EF fairmont. Great wheels, very lightweight, but a bit fragile...would dent at the sight of a pothole, luckily Simmons had fantastic customer support network, and would rebuild them free of charge (new inners twice). sad.

Sorry guys, but allot of people speaking from inexperience, saying "random orbitals" no good for polishing, leave it to woodworking etc. Some of the best auto polishers are Random orbital, and forced rotation orbital. Brands such as Festool, and the Bosch Professional range such as the "GEX150 turbo", make brilliant auto polishers. Less risk of burning paint, or over correcting than the rotary polishers. Rotary polishers are perhaps left to the professional, or experienced detailer due to the ability to easily damage paint if used incorrectly. But you will get a 5x better result at minor corrections, swirl removal and polishing using a random / forced orbital polisher than by hand, in a fraction of the time. You'd have to be really trying to damage your paint with a random, its very hard to build up that amount of heat. I polished my car by hand for years, great work out, but average results and very time consuming. I now use a Forced rotation Bosch GEX150T and Menzerna polishes, Zaino sealants for a much much better result in a fraction of the time.

I noted that ford have changed the part number for the BA-BF filter screen banjo thingie when I replaced mine last week. Now the same part no as on the turbo territory. Looked the same to me though?

I do mine every 20thousand. Have had 3 changes now, using the Castrol SAF-XA (includes the recommended friction modifier stuff, like teflon flakes) comes out looking good, and cant be doing it any harm to change it annually.

wow, props to you for doing it all by hand! I bet your arms are killing! great result, especially for black