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About Scrotus

  • Birthday 19/06/1983

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  1. Thanks for the heads up. Checking the center bearing and it is moving all over the joint, clunking around. Can anyone suggest aftermarket bearing or just best to go genuine?
  2. I heard on here that the boot was to high up so the shock cuts through - this was a post from few years back so perhaps just a bad batch. Hrm, the cluck is from the back left , sounds right at the wheel. I've had the diff bushes done 5 years ago the visually look ok - center bearing is original with 220K, might have to check that out before changing the CVs
  3. The BF has started making a clunk at low speed with more than 1/4 pedal down. I've checked the wheel bearing (which is only a year old) and seems fine. Checked the CV/Shaft no leaks or damage. It does however move horizontally about 1/4 of an inch either way. The Right however has zero movement. I think the movement seems fine though given there is a sound perhaps not. Also strange how one has no movement and the other a fair bit. I'm going to change the Drive shaft on spec - but having trouble finding a decent quality aftermarket one. The best choice so far seems maybe a Repco one as they have the 2 year warranty on CV / 5 Year on shaft. Though another post on here did mention that the boots are to high up and wear out from the shock. Any advice on which drive shafts to order?
  4. Mine does not come off like this, he seems to have enough clearance underneath. Spent 2 hours just trying to get this clip off. I give up. Wreckers $40 used pump it ended up being.
  5. If anyone has removed the circlip with success can you please let me know how to? Been at this clip for over an hour. Tried scribe, screwdrivers, G-clamping, nothing will move it and there is no holes - its just a piece of metal.
  6. Turns out changing the seal is fairly straight forward as I though, though did take 10 hours.
  7. Is yours leaking from where the driveshaft connects into the left side? Mine is leaking from that area from the right driveshaft. I ordered a new seal but a bit unsure how much needs to be removed to get to this. I'm assuming, the wheel, hub, brakes ect all comes off and then by the looks of it there is a bracket locking the driveshaft in place. After undoing that bracket the driveshaft should then be able to be unscrewed?
  8. Happy Birthday Scrotus!

  9. Happy Birthday Scrotus!

  10. Happy Birthday Scrotus!

  11. Happy Birthday Scrotus!

  12. wood + hammer worked well.
  13. Yes fill plug is where you mentioned and you turn it off before checking, only run the car before jacking it to get the transmission warm. Also is states in the procedure if its low top it up and take it for a drive to get it warm again (but dont go past 2,500RPM) it says to drive about 4-5km. Then repeat the procedure for checking oil and refill if needed.
  14. Removed the pads today the passenger side was fine, but on the driers side one of the bolts was ridiculous to remove. After taking the caliper off the side at which the bolt wouldnt budge I found one of the two pistons was sized. I dont see how the bolt would effect the piston, maybe the bolt has nothing to do with piston seizing. I never noticed any braking issues when driving, but now the thing just wont move. Even tried a hyd jack to force the piston back and that didnt work. Is it safe to spray some oil/lube around the piston. Its looking like I need a new caliper so would be great if anyone has any ideas to get the piston out.
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