I broke the motor, now time to build a new one :)

[Puffwagon]

I just had a look through gumtree and there are many bf and fg turbo's with plenty of power and money spent on them with prices ranging from just under 10 grand to just over 20 grand.

 

If you're going to spend the money you may as well get more bang for your buck.

 

Like numnuts said if you aren't doing it straight away then just get a stock bottom end and have it fixed for under a grand.

[HI PSI]

Where are you located?  I'm in Yeppoon and can help you out with some parts. I've got pretty much everything that you need...

[There I Broke It]

Hi PSI,

im in Emerald:) 

my email is [email protected] if you would prefer to talk serious money etc privately?

[HI PSI]

I pm'd you my number..

[bamk2f6tornado]

I drive a truck between Yeppoon n emerald every few weeks if you need a block or something brought out for free mate[emoji106]

[julesk_1972]

Buy an fg turbo.

some good deals around atm with all the work already done for RWKW 

[HI PSI]

He wants to progressively build it to do a 9 second quarter. A Fg donk won't cut the mustard...

[Puffwagon]

But why when you can buy something already done for half the price?

 

There are a couple of cars that ive seen on the toobs that have done a 9 with a stock bf or fg block.

 

No one drives their car on the street like they're going to run a 9 unless they don't want a car.

[There I Broke It]

Hi Puffwagon,

As Hi PSI said, the car will be built progressively to run a 9 sec qtr.

I bought the car 2 weeks ago privately and blew the engine. so no warranty.

So now I have a standard car with no mods, other than a decent suspension set up in it. The goal is to buy a decent bottom end and over time build up the rest of the car around it and dial in more power as the weak links slowly get replaced. I know I can get some nutzy motors or ready to race cars off ebay gumtree etc, but there are 2 limiting factors. I don't want to buy someone elses problem (already did that by buying the ba) and like most people, cash is a pretty severe handbrake. As the car gets quicker, I will obviously have a daily driver and the ba as a weekend fun/race car. I am smart enough to know that Hollywood doesn't imitate real life and a genuine 9 sec car is generally not an option as a daily driver.

 

Hey all,

I want to give a big shout out to Hi PSI this morning, he made me the mistake of sending me his ph number yesterday. I chewed his ear off for hours and he happily gave me advise and discussed various things that can go wrong and whats needed to have reliability at various rwkw. his knowledge is vast, and the time he happily gave a nooby is incredibly appreciated!!!

Thanks heaps mate.

 

An interesting problem did arise from my conversation with HI PSI yesterday.

I do want to move the battery to the boot. he advised that electrical interference can be a problem with this. such as the dreaded whistle through the stereo etc. anyone know of proven ways to avoid this : and for the smart arses out there like me, please don't reply saying leave the battery under the bonnet  

Are there certain cabling or insulation kits out there that can minimize this?

[glimmerman]

Don't run the power cables near the audio cables, make sure you have earth's that are excellent - earth it to the body of the car, earth it out to the chassis, make sure you run big cables.
Basically, poor earth connections and poor cabling make that noise.
If you've done all the cabling right and still can't fix it, apparently you can run a capacitor inline with the power supply to the head unit, but that's just like a filtering kit and masks the problem doesn't address it.