glimmerman

Mine did the same but the first ball bearing fell out months before, I didn't know what it was from and when working in the car I just thought damn that's random no idea where such a small bearing would come from, and cause I'm a hoarder I put it away cause it might be useful one day hahaha then when the lock did give out luckily it was when I just got home and turned the ignition off and the ball bearing hit my shoe and straight away I thought oh that's where that other one came from, I got lucky, I fixed it with the barrel in the car, just superglued the ball bearings to the ends of the springs so they didn't keep falling out while I tried to hold it all together, worked a treat and been good ever since, some people have been unlucky enough to have the car stuck at the servo still running when they went to get fuel.

Have you had any cosmetic changes to the car in the last few months? You also had a second car didn't you that was getting a build?

Don't run the power cables near the audio cables, make sure you have earth's that are excellent - earth it to the body of the car, earth it out to the chassis, make sure you run big cables. Basically, poor earth connections and poor cabling make that noise. If you've done all the cabling right and still can't fix it, apparently you can run a capacitor inline with the power supply to the head unit, but that's just like a filtering kit and masks the problem doesn't address it.

You can get aftermarket controllers for the ZF, I have looked into it, but it is very expensive, DTM automotive in Melbourne are a company listed as a supplier for it, I've discussed it with them but it is expensive

I mean also the stone covers, not the actual clear headlight lens just read that back and thought it might need clarifying

If you can't find any, there are people who made them by using the original headlight clear lens covers and cut them down and painted them.

You probably need to get some logging on the system while you do it, a tune shop should be able to help if the car isn't registering anything​ for later on, might be able to see if it's an overboost issue, or perhaps install a boost gauge and see if it spikes more than it should, might be wastegate problem

I spent a couple of years doing website design and some scripting - that code you posted Beanie looks exactly like VBSCRIPT

I take mine to my local mechanic, I will never let Fraud touch my car. Not only are the great mechanics, but I have gone in their so many times just to get a noise checked out, he will drop everything, take it for a quick drive, give me a diagnosis, if its going to be 15 minutes, fixes it, and doesn't charge me! All the times I've said to him "how much do I owe ya?" he is like "nah nothing, you always bring your car here, your girlfriends car, your parents - word of mouth is good enough" - I know he doesn't thrash my car, not like its some beast that draws lines down the road, but in any car a thrashing is just that, working its balls off. And word of mouth would be damaging to them since they rely on it. But I can say, as soon as I start to get my car tuned and worked on, when I take it to him, I will definitely be inviting him to take it to the motorway and open it up - firstly, if he knows what it drives like - he knows whats wrong - and he also owns a BA mkII Falcon - same year model and even colour as mine. So he has a feel for how they should be driving when mechanically sound. Not only that, but I get great prices for anything done, and some of it is EXPENSIVE when broken (thanks Fraud for the overprices parts) - and he has offered to do any work on the car that I want done (performance wise). He currently works on two guys GT-P's, one of which the owner didn't like the original paint, original interior or anything and has spent close to 100K on the car already just getting things re done to his tastes. (100K including the car price second hand) and one day was telling me about the cars, and even said "I'd love to open them up one day but unfortunately haven't needed to"

I think there may be a few snags to run into... These ICC's, can be diagnosed apparently, just like your car. A mechanic can plug it in, and tell you whats going on with your ICC. Also the central locking, indicators, brake lights, all interior circuit controls such as door locks, interior lamps, and my assumption also air bags, driver seat positions, all run off the ICC... because if you put LED bulbs in the indicators which run on the same CAN as the air bag apparently... I would assume since indicators run through the ICC so too would the air bags. I was going to do what a few have managed successfully by integrating a dvd player in the middle of the ICC and make it a bit longer to accomodate moving circuit boards around, my mechanic who owns a BA also urged me to just install it underneath because its too risky with how much just runs through this. You may already be aware of all these things... Steve

This speed calculation system is now being used also on roads in NSW such as the M7 - anything with etag entry and exit points, it caculates your etag time on and etag time off, and then hits you with a fine if you have been speeding. Buses in Sydney are now also fitted with camera's capable of the same (not etag related, but speeding, driving reckless etc), so if you be a knob in front of (or beside or behind) a bus, you will again cop a fine. They are starting to really get technology for their benefit and our downfall lol - and on another point! I lost my licence because an unmarker drove right up my ass getting me to nudge on faster until he decided to pull me over. They bend the rules so much to catch you (not all a wankers, but some)

I've just gone and put a typhoon body kit on my car... Mine is a futura and its engine is stock for the moment. I have no problem at all putting FPV badges on it once I get my engine tuned etc... after all FPV means Ford Performance Vehicle - not I just bought an F6 from factory. My uncle just purchased an F6 after riding off his T on the way back from having it tuned at CV. The only difference I see between his F6 now, and his XR 6 T is the body kit, obviously different turbo, a few FPV badges, intercooler, but in the end, the performance from his slightly modded T and the F6 I would imagine was the same. There is a blue Fairmont in my area, looks identical to an F6 apart from the rear boot lip with that little factory bling thing, he even has F6 badges... can't say I'm a fan of it, its not an F6 - but each to his own, nice car none the less. I'm debadging mine, I've bought an aftermarket viper/cobra (no not the Ford Cobra Badge, totallt different) badge and put that on, I think it looks good on it, and and eventually I'll be putting FPV badges. I want my car to be unique, and I think its every drivers personal choice and entirely upto them if they want to make it look like something its not, or if they want to make it completely unique. If I badged mine F6 and made it look identical - it certainly doesn't harm the guy driving the F6 next to me on the highway - he can enjoy his ride, I'll enjoy mine. So to all those who don't fear being individual - cheers to you, I think your car looks good mate, I prefer to see cars with a touch a unique over stock - but I'm not worried about resale. I can certainly say, cars that are unique and look great, will turn heads more than the stocker - but F6's etc, they turn heads as is also. Some people are too scared to be labelled fake these days

I've been thinking about getting mine complete N/A tuned. I can't drive a turbo being on the P's here in NSW, but I figure, if I can get as much out of the engine without it being blown, I don't think I'll even go down that road of adding any blowers. What I'm interested in, is what am I looking at in regards to work... for eg. If I get it stroked out to a 4.8 litre, do I need to take it to Fraud to get the schematics on the engines computers changed, or does the flash tune alter those? And if anyone here can give me an idea on what work I could do to get some nice additions to the output, I'm still learning in regards to mechanical anything... so all I get done will be by the professionals. And a rough idea on what mod costs what? I'm a traineeship boot licker also, so my pay is crap, so its something I either have to save up for a year or more to do, otherwise I can do it in installments, so what could be an option with taking time. I know its expensive to get it dyno'd every month when I get something new... Cheers fella's, Steve

Gday all, Well yesterday, drove my car around to the car wash, left there, and going round a round about, ETC comes on, no acceleration. Stopped, turned the car off, but no matter how long I waited, it didn't let me use the accelerator. I could idle fine at bout 20km/h. Anyway, I was nearly home when it happened, but next was two huge hills, and idle isn't going to make it up them, PLUS its a sarturday and I need the car for Monday. So I idle my way to kmart tyre auto, they can't look too busy, JAX - I sign some papers, guy walks out, gets in car and it starts fine and he has throttle response. He says getting low, go and fill her up, that may have caused the issue - ok, pull out of driveway and 50 metres down the road, cuts out. I figure well maybe it needs to cool down a bit, so I wait, starts up throttle works again, make my way to the Ford dealership just around the corner (didn't want to but kinda didn't feel a had another choice) but when I got there, the service department had closed, and no joke - the wankers laughed at me from the sales department. So they can get F****ED! Idle home another way, stopping off a servo to fill up, and after the car goes fine, for about 20 minutes, I'm thinking OMG sweet just was low on fuel and crap fuel... then cut out, ETC light on again, and this time, stall. Stop car, turn it back on, and it works again. Get home, and the car is RED HOT, my rims were untouchable. The heat was inbelievable. Call my uncle up who comes and has a check, the fly by wire seemed all good, he adjusted a few of the springs around the pedals as braking without the car having any power was a bit harsh on them, and suspects it may be either the water pump, or thermostat is making the engine overheat - apparently these cars will cut off the acc. to prevent you from flawing it and causing it to heat up more than it is, but it will idle to get you somewhere to fix it. So today after it takes 5 HOURS to cool down to being warm... I find the water pump is good, the thermostat is shat. Replace it and take it for a drive, about 5 minutes in, ETC light on and car stalls, another 10 metres down the road, happens again. Make it back home and still stumped. In attempt to my father exactly what occurs I say, just get in I'll show you... I put it into reverse and click, out goes everything again. The strange part, the engine was probably damn close to seizing it was so hot, all 4 wheels were so hot to leave your hands on them would burn you and with the bonnet open all night, it takes over 5 hours to become warm to the touch still. The engine temp displayed as normal. Also, I realised later that, the air con was never cold in the car when I was driving, always warm. Any ideas at all anyone? It goes into my mechanic tomorrow, but if its something I could maybe suggest to him, that would be great. Especially if it says no error codes for it, like it never occurred. It happened over 7 times in the last 2 days. Cheers Steve

I'm in on the offended wagon too, I like to think I look good, as I stand in front of the mirror and flex... not sh*t lol