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  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 15y 2m
Posted

Wut.

Yeah it has atomic valve springs fitted since 2014. Only entry level ones though.

Coils, plugs etc are all new. I had a issue earlier coming onto boost which is now fixed

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 15y 2m
Posted

Atomic don't hire out there tool anymore. Supposedly lost in the mail.

Speaking to him, he might warrant them if the seat pressure is gone to sh*t. He said send em down and he will check em.

How to keep the valves in place for many days though??

  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 18y 5m 11d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

put the stock ones back in while you send 'em? :dontknow:

  • Like 2
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 7m 23d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

Cable ties will hold them up.

 

Also mace engineering used to hire out a valve tool.

  • Like 1
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 15y 2m
Posted

Mace still do it for $70.

Right one question. Can you reset and release the tensioner without removing the front cover????

f899cf52fd6910d8b2b90fa60e3c7921.jpg

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 15y 2m
Posted

Just watched the one on a tensioner. He used a modified dipstick as it has to extend down pretty far.
This was my point. From memory you can't reach down there with your fingers very easy.

 

Anyone know if ford have a useful tool? I have ford contacts, but unless I tell them exactly what to borrow they don't go looking.

  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide
Posted

Metal coat hangar ...... cut it, bend it

 

Use a bungee strap to hold up the chain and attach to bonnet lock clip ( use a strut locking tool or a pole to keep bonnet up ) 

 

loosen the camshaft caps together ( inlet/exhaust ) and as they loosen up the cams will rise upwards at the back, pull camshafts free ( forward ) with sprockets still attached to cams , bungie strap takes up the chain slack forcing it in the correct position on the lower sprocket... pull the cams through the chain until out of the engine bay. Chain will then be pulled directly upward 

 

do the valvesprings now

 

on re installation of the cams,chain you need to force the tensioner back to all the way retracted , use the handle of a hammer to push the piston into the retracted position, the holding latch will move up to a point where you can place the coat hanger end through the latch hole and then holding it in the fully retracted position. 

 

Now take one sprocket off of a cam shaft , fit the other back into the head and reverse tighten the cam caps to spec 

 

fit the other cam shaft minus the sprocket into place, tighten cam caps 

fit chain around sprocket, “Roll” the sprocket into position on the camshaft face and locate and fasten cam bolt ( Etorx ) and torque to spec, pull coat hanger out of locked position latch and rotate harmonic balancer via breaker bar and 23mm socket to move the engine through a bunch of cycles checking the valve springs are all seated nicely, valves aren’t touching pistons, and giving the tensioner a chance to extend outwards to take up chain slack. 

 

Key is get TDC before removing anything

 

check TDC before manually rotating engine after valvesprings installation 

 

reinstall everything and start car ! 

 

My thread is chocka block of visual tips ! 

 

5c80f0a42d2c4.jpg

 

5c80f0a19ff45.jpg

  • Like 5
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 7m 23d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted
12 minutes ago, JETURBO said:

Key is get TDC before removing anything

 

This^

 

Moral if the story is...don't hang your clothes up straight away cos you never know when you'll need a hanger.

Take that mum :aaggl:

  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 3m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide
Posted

Hanger, not Hangar 

 

sorry no brain tonight 

  • Haha 1

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