Jump to content


Trent0

5?rwkw Na->turbo Conversion

Recommended Posts

Got the Ute up and running again last week. Clutch feels great, it drives beautifully (re-tuned it on 98 using PCMtec) making about 620rwhp (qld, sorry lol)

The dowelled crank/flywheel, done by TBRE. Not welded, has some crazy super heavy duty loctite on the threads. You can see where the ARP head of the bolt was having a roll around. Flywheel surface is g2g, gave it a good clean before fitting the clutch.
1015891956_flywheelresized.thumb.jpg.67c01d882b9a594472dd9bb4d352110e.jpg
 

I have a photo of the pitted cam lobe to upload as well, this site won't let me though (130kb max). It was one of TBRE's originals, it was a BLANK from FORD that was made to his stage 1 specs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Last week I ordered a new tail shaft from GJ Drivelines. It's a Pro Series - $1890 for anyone curious.

Super simple to fit up - really nice looking bit of gear.

AacTcv.jpg


After fitting, it felt good to drive around. I noticed under acceleration for 50+ I'd get some not so great vibrations. I'd noticed lately that jamming it in lower gears the gear stick would move a considerable amount (with engine torque). Turns out my gearbox mounts were shagged. I was able to replace them for $50 and only took me 20mins to do!
JCCGXM.jpg


Thinking this solved my issues, I took another test drive. No luck. I'd noticed a clunk developed in the front end over the past week as well after driving on some rough roads the weekend prior, I put it down to a flogged out bush. After having a hunch and checking the engine mounts, I'd discovered I had a missing mount nut 😕 Still trying to source something that fits.

wVaot4.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've just got a new one for it but still ahve vibrations under acceleration/load. Any suggestions? *Feels* like it's coming from the rear. Either hard acceleration or foot+brake it starts up. Cruising at 100, nadda.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

tailshaft and engine/trans mounts I would guess, but you've already fixed up those... sorry, can't think of anything off the top of my head for a ute that would be at the rear and cause that...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I've just got a new one for it but still ahve vibrations under acceleration/load. Any suggestions? *Feels* like it's coming from the rear. Either hard acceleration or foot+brake it starts up. Cruising at 100, nadda.
This is common with aftermarket tail shafts. Well it was a few years back.

Generally the uni joints vibrate more than the CV joint on the factory shaft. The new shaft you have also does not have the factory doughnut damper/bush so it will transfer more noise and vibration.

Depending on the height of the ute you may have to add some spacers to lower the center bearing and align the shaft to have less angle between the uni joints.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With my gibson shaft chasing same vibrations, new engine & gearbox mounts, spacers under the centre bearing, replacing diff bush's, back to gibsons, took it to hardy spicer and it turned out to be 'bent' Another $400 to them but at least it's fixed (%90 because of IMS hat)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Trent0 said:

Last week I ordered a new tail shaft from GJ Drivelines. It's a Pro Series - $1890 for anyone curious.

Super simple to fit up - really nice looking bit of gear.

AacTcv.jpg


After fitting, it felt good to drive around. I noticed under acceleration for 50+ I'd get some not so great vibrations. I'd noticed lately that jamming it in lower gears the gear stick would move a considerable amount (with engine torque). Turns out my gearbox mounts were shagged. I was able to replace them for $50 and only took me 20mins to do!
JCCGXM.jpg


Thinking this solved my issues, I took another test drive. No luck. I'd noticed a clunk developed in the front end over the past week as well after driving on some rough roads the weekend prior, I put it down to a flogged out bush. After having a hunch and checking the engine mounts, I'd discovered I had a missing mount nut 😕 Still trying to source something that fits.

wVaot4.jpg

 

Look at the aluminum shavings in the engine mount stud threads, that's how far the engine has been "lifting".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, OZYWALKER said:

This is common with aftermarket tail shafts. Well it was a few years back.

Generally the uni joints vibrate more than the CV joint on the factory shaft. The new shaft you have also does not have the factory doughnut damper/bush so it will transfer more noise and vibration.

Depending on the height of the ute you may have to add some spacers to lower the center bearing and align the shaft to have less angle between the uni joints.

Same here, also had to stuff around a bit with spacers height.

Have never changed since dropping SL leaves in a few years back, one of the things to do before it comes off the hoist sometime during the next 7 days hopefully...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've had a set of king SSL's? the lowest kings leafs, in the rear for the past 5 years. I'm still using the factory spacers (10mm?). Not sure whether or not to stuff around with different sizes or just drop it off at a diff shop to get looked at and sorted?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry I meant SSLs also...

 

Depends on the housing, one of my utes has a Gibson shaft, the other has a GJ drivelines unit - these particular shafts in any case have totally different bearing carriers 

Will throw up some pics in a bit if I can.

 

As far as I knew you aim for the centre bearing to be slightly higher than what it would be if the whole shaft was dead straight from gearbox to diff.

A) allows for a bit of diff pinion rise under hard throttle and B) apparently unis shouldn't run dead straight...pretty sure I read that on here years ago TBH - courtesy of @Ralph Wiggum possibly?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gibson shaft, with pissy little retainer plate - will fab a replacement for it. Needed 40mm spacers on this at stock height to get it right as the carrier tabs are right at the base.

V9iVmKIWFQfgkUhlzzajf5Ab0NsREjufoSPlmP65

 

GJ shaft, totally different carrier

BNevX3JSPu85P1O3BvjwvUJyelXGDjA1ewUfULrg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On another topic - does anyone have recommendations for a steering/suspension shop in Melbourne? So much knocking and banging, I'd say a few bushes need replacing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I bit the bullet and took the ute in to a nice little workshop to get some noises in the front end checked. Nice little list of jobs to do :)

Old mate said I'd be best off buying new Upper & Lower control arms with bushes & ball joints fitted as a replacement, less time and money to do. The harder part is finding parts online with genuine ball joints and bushes. Does anyone have recommendations for a seller?

5lsrKf.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've looked all over their website and found no fitted kits, only bushes?

I replaced the Tie Rod ends and sway bar links - all knocks gone, only squeaks remain :) All the ball joints were flogged in them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Donation Box

    Please donate to support the community.
    We appreciate all donations!


FordXR6Turbo.com Powered by Invision Community

×
×
  • Create New...