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Trent0

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Trent0 last won the day on May 22

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About Trent0

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    The Toxic Rocket

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    Brisbane

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  1. precision 6466! Had mine on since Mar 2014 and 70,000km, nil issues made bang on *600rwkw* with the latest tune (935hp rated turbo though...)
  2. Cheers mate! Those whiteline control arms are what I'm after so I can bolt them straight in!
  3. I've looked all over their website and found no fitted kits, only bushes? I replaced the Tie Rod ends and sway bar links - all knocks gone, only squeaks remain All the ball joints were flogged in them.
  4. So I bit the bullet and took the ute in to a nice little workshop to get some noises in the front end checked. Nice little list of jobs to do Old mate said I'd be best off buying new Upper & Lower control arms with bushes & ball joints fitted as a replacement, less time and money to do. The harder part is finding parts online with genuine ball joints and bushes. Does anyone have recommendations for a seller?
  5. On another topic - does anyone have recommendations for a steering/suspension shop in Melbourne? So much knocking and banging, I'd say a few bushes need replacing.
  6. I've had a set of king SSL's? the lowest kings leafs, in the rear for the past 5 years. I'm still using the factory spacers (10mm?). Not sure whether or not to stuff around with different sizes or just drop it off at a diff shop to get looked at and sorted?
  7. I've just got a new one for it but still ahve vibrations under acceleration/load. Any suggestions? *Feels* like it's coming from the rear. Either hard acceleration or foot+brake it starts up. Cruising at 100, nadda.
  8. Last week I ordered a new tail shaft from GJ Drivelines. It's a Pro Series - $1890 for anyone curious. Super simple to fit up - really nice looking bit of gear. After fitting, it felt good to drive around. I noticed under acceleration for 50+ I'd get some not so great vibrations. I'd noticed lately that jamming it in lower gears the gear stick would move a considerable amount (with engine torque). Turns out my gearbox mounts were shagged. I was able to replace them for $50 and only took me 20mins to do! Thinking this solved my issues, I took another test drive. No luck. I'd noticed a clunk developed in the front end over the past week as well after driving on some rough roads the weekend prior, I put it down to a flogged out bush. After having a hunch and checking the engine mounts, I'd discovered I had a missing mount nut 😕 Still trying to source something that fits.
  9. Got the Ute up and running again last week. Clutch feels great, it drives beautifully (re-tuned it on 98 using PCMtec) making about 620rwhp (qld, sorry lol) The dowelled crank/flywheel, done by TBRE. Not welded, has some crazy super heavy duty loctite on the threads. You can see where the ARP head of the bolt was having a roll around. Flywheel surface is g2g, gave it a good clean before fitting the clutch.
  10. I've got the engine back from TBRE. As well as the dowelling work, I got him to replace timing gear and fortunately as he was tearing down the engine found that some cam lobes laminate had perished and so he put in a new set of billet stage 1's. Bit of an unexpected bummer but good to find it early.
  11. Yeah I should have done this a while ago. The problem was motivation and pulling everything apart again. Now my hand is forced so to speak haha.
  12. So it turns out I had snapped a flywheel bolt. It ended up between a clutch plate and the flywheel which prevented the clutch from engaging properly. Flywheel will get a machine and I'm getting Tony Bellert to dowel the crank in hopes I never have bolt snapping problems again.


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