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  • The Toxic Rocket
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 4m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

thanks for the heads up!

How can I go about shielding the bay & bonnet from the exhaust housing temp?

  • Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 18y 9m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure
Posted

Remove bonnet, that fixes everything!

  • 2 months later...
  • The Toxic Rocket
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 4m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

I used to have one of those "drift" vented bonnets, should have kept it ;)

I pulled out the gearbox yesterday to add a spacer behind the csc as the crush was out and getting into gears (especially reverse which was near on impossible) was getting difficult.

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I highly recommend using a skateboard to aid in the process,

  • Like 2
  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 18y 5m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

Hahaha, I do approve of the idea of using a rolling device to move the gearbox :spoton:

 

All back together now with the better crush depth?

  • The Toxic Rocket
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 4m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

Back together now, just bleeding clutch. I really want to piss that hard line off and run braided hose from the res to the pedal and pedal to the slave, has anyone done it before?

The spacer the old man made last night, 2mm sheet aluminium. 112mm diameter with a 38mm inside cut out to fit shaft and clear the chamfer.

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fDAppw.jpg

  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 18y 5m 9d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne
Posted

The hard line you can just buy a replacement from Mal Wood... I don't know the specs enough to know if you could knock one up at your local enzed/pirtek/etc.

 

let us know how the gear selection goes. :3gears:

 

mounted that plate under the CSC? slick bit of kit, definitely :spoton:

  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 20y 11m 27d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth
Posted

Mal's replacement still use the short plastic line from the MC to the  Dash 4 adaptor. once of these each "should" work

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TREMEC-T56-TR6060-HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-LINE-FITTING-AN-4-LINE-6-SPEED-SWAP-/111147459015?hash=item19e0e7a1c7:g:PhgAAOSwFGNWSow3&vxp=mtr

 

 

  • Member
  • Member For: 12y 11m 20d
Posted

sh*t that little thing is expensive. I just took the standard end out of the plastic line cut the barb off and welded a 1/4 olive clamp fitting (dunno what you call it really it's just a stainless line end.) then used another one to screw into the slave, slave should have 1/8npt thread. Found a flexible hydraulic line at work with 1/4 barb type ends that I could put straight into the olive fitting. Total cost of $0. Making custom components FTW.

 

Here is a pick of my setup if you zoom in you will see the fitting that I tig welded together.

91572163f097ac33504ed1d1492069d5.jpg

  • Like 1
  • The Toxic Rocket
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 16y 4m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

I will be looking into that, looks awesome mate!

So thinking the 2mm spacer wasn't enough. I can engage reverse better, but once in gear, clutch completely in, the car still creeps backwards. Throw another 2mm spacer in it?

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