Trent0 The Toxic Rocket Legacy Donating Member 574 Member For: 16y 4m 25d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 02/03/16 08:49 AM Author Posted 02/03/16 08:49 AM thanks for the heads up! How can I go about shielding the bay & bonnet from the exhaust housing temp?
eff xr6t Member 569 Member For: 12y 11m 20d Posted 02/03/16 09:06 AM Posted 02/03/16 09:06 AM Buy a stainless steel pot from woollies and cut it up and put it over the rear housing. 1
discostig Manual mode ________________________ All day, erryday Legacy Donating Member 13,798 Member For: 18y 9m 26d Gender: Male Location: Probably above atmospheric pressure Posted 02/03/16 12:22 PM Posted 02/03/16 12:22 PM Remove bonnet, that fixes everything!
Trent0 The Toxic Rocket Legacy Donating Member 574 Member For: 16y 4m 25d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 04/05/16 12:01 AM Author Posted 04/05/16 12:01 AM I used to have one of those "drift" vented bonnets, should have kept it I pulled out the gearbox yesterday to add a spacer behind the csc as the crush was out and getting into gears (especially reverse which was near on impossible) was getting difficult. I highly recommend using a skateboard to aid in the process, 2
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 30,100 Member For: 18y 5m 9d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 04/05/16 12:05 AM Posted 04/05/16 12:05 AM Hahaha, I do approve of the idea of using a rolling device to move the gearbox All back together now with the better crush depth?
Trent0 The Toxic Rocket Legacy Donating Member 574 Member For: 16y 4m 25d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 04/05/16 05:16 AM Author Posted 04/05/16 05:16 AM Back together now, just bleeding clutch. I really want to piss that hard line off and run braided hose from the res to the pedal and pedal to the slave, has anyone done it before? The spacer the old man made last night, 2mm sheet aluminium. 112mm diameter with a 38mm inside cut out to fit shaft and clear the chamfer.
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 30,100 Member For: 18y 5m 9d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 04/05/16 05:20 AM Posted 04/05/16 05:20 AM The hard line you can just buy a replacement from Mal Wood... I don't know the specs enough to know if you could knock one up at your local enzed/pirtek/etc. let us know how the gear selection goes. mounted that plate under the CSC? slick bit of kit, definitely
Ralph Wiggum Moar Powar Babeh Legacy Donating Member 19,334 Member For: 20y 11m 27d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 04/05/16 05:29 AM Posted 04/05/16 05:29 AM Mal's replacement still use the short plastic line from the MC to the Dash 4 adaptor. once of these each "should" work http://www.ebay.com/itm/TREMEC-T56-TR6060-HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-LINE-FITTING-AN-4-LINE-6-SPEED-SWAP-/111147459015?hash=item19e0e7a1c7:g:PhgAAOSwFGNWSow3&vxp=mtr
eff xr6t Member 569 Member For: 12y 11m 20d Posted 04/05/16 01:54 PM Posted 04/05/16 01:54 PM sh*t that little thing is expensive. I just took the standard end out of the plastic line cut the barb off and welded a 1/4 olive clamp fitting (dunno what you call it really it's just a stainless line end.) then used another one to screw into the slave, slave should have 1/8npt thread. Found a flexible hydraulic line at work with 1/4 barb type ends that I could put straight into the olive fitting. Total cost of $0. Making custom components FTW. Here is a pick of my setup if you zoom in you will see the fitting that I tig welded together. 1
Trent0 The Toxic Rocket Legacy Donating Member 574 Member For: 16y 4m 25d Gender: Male Location: Brisbane Posted 05/05/16 11:18 AM Author Posted 05/05/16 11:18 AM I will be looking into that, looks awesome mate! So thinking the 2mm spacer wasn't enough. I can engage reverse better, but once in gear, clutch completely in, the car still creeps backwards. Throw another 2mm spacer in it?
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