My 3k inspection is due next week, is the oil changed at the service or do I need to request it gets changed ? Or should I buy my own oil and filter and do it at home ?

My 3k inspection is due next week, is the oil changed at the service or do I need to request it gets changed ? Or should I buy my own oil and filter and do it at home ?

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They dont change it as part of the 3K service. Not scheduled till 15K

Cost me $66 for them to change it while it was there

I have the Expensive Daewoo run in route map somewhere on my PC at home from memory. Its the route they take to run in their new engines, including prototypes and also race engines (put in stock looking cars). I will try to dig it up. Its useful for those who live in Melbourne area as it covers all conditions in all gears and different revs.

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Oooo, yes please!!

PM them to me if you want.

Dave.

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Will search for it guys. I think it (or a link to the site with details) is on my PC somewhere. But as I have almost a terrabyte of hard disk space, it isnt always easy to find things

I am moving house mid next week so it will be busy for me over this weekend as I must pack...if you dont get a reply from me by next weekend, please PM me and remind me to look.

I would strongly recommend you DONT do what you stated. 4th gear up hills at very low revs is exceedingly harsh on your engine, even AFTER its been run in.

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fair enuf, but I'm just going on my experience and what mechanics have told me to do. I have run in 3 engines, and never had a problem, doing things the way I do.

I didn't go straight to a hill after a build up either, maybe after a few hundred k's...

just ask ford for their own run in schedule..

My 3k inspection is due next week, is the oil changed at the service or do I need to request it gets changed ? Or should I buy my own oil and filter and do it at home ?

They dont change it as part of the 3K service. Not scheduled till 15K

Cost me $66 for them to change it while it was there

WHAT??? are you serious, they don't change the oil at the 3k service?????

I was positive they did.

if this is the case, I'm fecked!! it's done over 6500km now and hasn't had it's oil changed!

Dave.

mine used over a litre of oil in the first 3000. dealer said it was normal. hasnt touched a drop since.

I was under the impression that the 3K service was a simple look over the engine nothing more... and if an Oil change was required it would be done (at my expense of course)

hey all as some might know this is my 3rd T, but this time is it diffrent as I am buying this one not getting given it from work, reason being is I have got the modders bug.

I have never really run my other motors in as they had 1500 to 2000kms on them so I just starting driving.

I have tried to search this but could not find much info on if.

any tips for the best power output

I know about the loading and not the trash it but other then that I have never really had a fresh motor.

Regards

Try this. From one of the other forum members. 'Mickq' if I remember right

Running_In.doc

Try this.  From one of the other forum members.  'Mickq' if I remember right 

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THIS IS HOW IT SHOULD BE WORDED!!!

Dont let the engine overheat OR DRIVE IT HARD COLD AND DON'T LET IT IDLE FOR LONG PERIODS!!! DRIVE THE LAST FEW MINUTES OF YOUR TRIP CALMLY Especially if the turbo has been active.

- Do not miss or delay the first oil change 1000 - 1500K'S. No excuses on this one. It can be like silver glitter in some cars and will do damage quickly if left in. Also the oil tends to be a different grade from the norm, so don’t expect it to act like the normal oil.

- No Mobil 1 or similar fully synthetic thin oil until you have done 10,000km with normal oil.

0-100km:

For the first 100km or so, avoid loading the engine up. NO SHORT SHIFTING LUGGING. I’d say something like keep it below 5000 revs and don’t press the accelerator more than 1/2-3/4 way.

Be sure that you don’t LUGG the engine. You can put massive load on the engine at 10km by simply putting it in 3rd or 4th and accelerating. The engine isn’t made to put out much power at low revs so it struggles. It produces a certain noise CHATTERS THE RINGS IN THE BORES when this is occurring. Avoid it.

Ensure the engine gets to a good operating temp. A nice freeway cruise will DESTROY YOUR ENGINE well.

Do NOT hold any certain rev range. If you are doing freeway driving, vary the gear AND RPM you are in CONSTANTLY so that the engine speed doesn’t sit at one point too much early on. Use all the gears - gearboxes can do well with running them in too. (I’m assuming a manual here).

1000km, go for it. High revs, high loads.

The tradeoff with engines is simple. As anyone with a lot of racing experience can tell you, if you run it in too hard at the start, the engine's life will not be as long. Its fact. However it will make great power until it starts to prematurely leak oil and show other bad signs.

If you run it in too much like a wuss, the car will tend to rev sluggishly and not put out a very high peak power. It will also tend to have resistance moving past the rev range (or two) that they tended to sit at.

What you want is to go somewhere in between. Start off pretty mild. Gradually increase load and peak revs over the first 1000kms. Do not ever load the engine up at low revs, say driving up a hill at 20kmh in 3rd or 4th. It is not good, even with a fully run in engine!

Understand that except for very early on it is LOAD that causes the problems not revs. If you are careful you can rev it to near redline after only a couple of hundred km's (or sooner if you do things really carefully), but you must do so whilst BEING CAUCIOUS. The degree to which you press the accelerator to get to the high revs should be built up over 500-1000km.

THIS WILL ENSURE YOU DO NOT GLASE THE BORES OR MARK THEM WITH CHATTER!!!

A GOOD RACE ENGINE IS RUN IN FOR 30 MINS OF 1/2-3/4 THROTTLE TO 90% REV RANGE!!!

DON'T BE TOLD OTHERWISE!!!!