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Tom Tucker

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Everything posted by Tom Tucker

  1. They look pretty impressive IMO. You'll never have a weld crack, and they have great heat management options.
  2. Read my build thread. Can you get an Artec for barra with vband?
  3. I guess it's different to the GTX stuff that bolts up to stock rear housing. Just saw this, 670 odd kw from G35 1050 (I assume) Looks like its lazy compared to my G35-900. Seems to hold boost a bit better, but similarly looks most efficient around 20psi.
  4. Yeah, you're right, I think they added those only recently. Maybe the 1.01 is workable, but you still need an external wastegate setup. If you modify the stock manifold, it usually doesn't end up that much cheaper than new manifold. Point remains, its not a simple bolt on job with a G series
  5. The main reason is the G35 900/1050 don't come with a standard T3 rear housing, and as far as I know, they don't fit inside the stock rear housing. You pretty much need a vband manifold to suit, external gate etc
  6. Phantom purple looks great, but I still really like the Ego Grey. Luckily that's what mine is standard so makes the closed door respray easier
  7. Just closed door, but new front bar, rear bar, rear spoiler, rubbers, lights, plastic guards, undertray (all OEM Ford stuff). Approx $7k
  8. Quick update on this bad boy. Still in with panel beaters. It's taking longer than expected, but I'm not too concerned. Good news is that when everything came off, there was no crash damaged uncovered, and everything looks factory underneath. I got a bunch of new OEM parts to fit, so it should come out looking brand new. I'll post pics when it's done.
  9. We've all been through this playing with cars. It still has to be done - stock cars are for boring chumps.
  10. Looks pretty average man. Let us know how you go.
  11. That sounds like a killer setup man. I rate the standard GT3582R. It's perfect for 400kw, and like you say, it's fast with that response. Stock motor handles it too
  12. Just re-read what you're after. I think a G35-900 will do 400kw on 98 pretty easily, but I don't know how safe it would be. It'd definitely be the most responsive option you can get for that power goal, unless you consider BW EFR options. Cost blows out when you move away from factory manifold and turbine housing, so from that perspective, a GTX3582 gen 2 is what you'd need to hit 400kw on 98. And as Puff said, it'll be lazy down low
  13. G35-900. 62mm compressor and turbine. Very responsive turbo, and actually suits lower boost. Its a pretty fine balance on the barra between response down low, and choking the turbine up high
  14. Hey mate, more common issue than not. Many builders have gone back to using the standard Ford chain tensioner now.
  15. Car looks nice man. Clean. Not sure about shaving suspension arms, but it looks good!
  16. Its one thing to check off the list of possible problems haha
  17. My money is on "something is farked", not "fatigued valve spring", sorry keef.
  18. Haha cars hey. I wonder if stainless valves are worth it?
  19. Hey mate, sorry to hear you're having problems straight away. It's really difficult to diagnose what exactly is going on. It's really a process of elimination. I'd suggest fully servicing the car, including fuel filter. If you're doing spark plugs, consider replacing the coils too (oem only). Double check all your hose clamps on the intercooler hot side. Maybe just change the battery out. A buggered battery has undone many before. Keep us up to date with progress
  20. They are OEM spec. This whole thread is about upgraded driveshafts.
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