Tom Tucker

That sounds like a killer setup man. I rate the standard GT3582R. It's perfect for 400kw, and like you say, it's fast with that response. Stock motor handles it too

Just re-read what you're after. I think a G35-900 will do 400kw on 98 pretty easily, but I don't know how safe it would be. It'd definitely be the most responsive option you can get for that power goal, unless you consider BW EFR options. Cost blows out when you move away from factory manifold and turbine housing, so from that perspective, a GTX3582 gen 2 is what you'd need to hit 400kw on 98. And as Puff said, it'll be lazy down low

G35-900. 62mm compressor and turbine. Very responsive turbo, and actually suits lower boost. Its a pretty fine balance on the barra between response down low, and choking the turbine up high

Hey mate, more common issue than not. Many builders have gone back to using the standard Ford chain tensioner now.

Car looks nice man. Clean. Not sure about shaving suspension arms, but it looks good!

Its one thing to check off the list of possible problems haha

My money is on "something is farked", not "fatigued valve spring", sorry keef.

Haha cars hey. I wonder if stainless valves are worth it?

It'll be fine

Better

Hey mate, sorry to hear you're having problems straight away. It's really difficult to diagnose what exactly is going on. It's really a process of elimination. I'd suggest fully servicing the car, including fuel filter. If you're doing spark plugs, consider replacing the coils too (oem only). Double check all your hose clamps on the intercooler hot side. Maybe just change the battery out. A buggered battery has undone many before. Keep us up to date with progress

Nah. Haha

🤦‍♂️

They are OEM spec. This whole thread is about upgraded driveshafts.

Agreed. I ended up doing the whole job myself because I called a few places in SEQLD, and nobody wanted to do it, including Pedders and Fulcrum. All these suspension and driveline pretenders want to do these days is bolt on 4x4 gear that they retail. I outsourced a press

Man if they were $240 a side, everyone would have them. $6k estimation is installed. As stated, the 1400hp units need new hubs to be pressed into the knuckles. Not difficult, but not something your average mechanic can do.

Nice. How do you rate the LSA? Have you compared it against an NA LS at any stage? I'm tossing up getting a VF SS for daily duties, but worried about lack of torque

I don't think so man. Maybe others will have a different opinion, but its relatively well accepted that the barra head flows nicely standard. Maybe worthwhile for 1000+hp. I'm happy to send you my map, when it's sorted. Unless you want 50L/100km fuel economy haha. PM Jet, he may be able to help you.

My Haltech isn't relevant to you, but I have Atomic Stage 3. Highly recommend, easy on valve train, sweet burble. Big performance gains throughout the rev range. But Kelford 218A would be good. 218B if you want biggest gains and sound while retaining VCT

No need to port the head. OEM are likely to pit again, aftermarket billet cams solves that problem. You're right about the tune, but I can see this is going to escalate to new turbo anyway - may as well do both together. Plus, a nice cam lope sounds baller. Stock idle is for chumps. One last thought. While you're at it, get new lifters, and look at your phasers and VCT solenoids. Plus you cam and crank angle sensors. Check the plugs while the motor is out, makes it so much easier. There's another $1k there...

Not much change out of $6k for the 1400hp ones these days I'd say. The 700hp ones aren't that much cheaper. They're made by the Driveshaft Shop in the US, but there are a few resellers in Aus. I got mine from Diff Technics in Sydney

Hey mate, your rebuild sounds like it's getting some good quality parts straight up, which is great to see. I think you're already at the max that turbo can make and fuel system might be close to tapped nearing 500. The only other thing I'd say is if you're already throwing new cams in there, why not put something a little spicier in there?

Ouch.

Mine were clicking for a while, then let go at the CV. Replaced with repco ones, clicking disappeared

When my axles were on their last legs I had a clicking noise coming from them. No shuddering. But experiences vary