MrBean

Thanx Mate. I will post a few pics later- it's prepped and ready for primer

Thanx Mate, will keep them coming Hello Guys, Even though this appears to be a small, insignificant update, a lot of work went into this. I started with prepping the bezel, laying a few layers of primer after sealing/sanding the balsawood with some fiberglass resin. Well, all went well, and things progressed rapidly, until shot a few more layers of primer. At a point I was pretty ready to do a couple layers clear to see where we are at, as the primer looked pretty decent. Well, decided to fill a few of the cavities at the back in with some resin, just to lend support and improve overall rigidity of the top part of the frame, and, damn, added to much hardener - it got so hot it caused the paint on the front to bubble. Damn, had to strip it all down to the bare plastic, 2 days worth down the drain. &$#@* - So, I had to start all over again, and fortunately, I took the "easy" way out and used acetone to strip it down to bare plastic, even removed the factory paint. So, I approached things a little differently, and herewith the progress (again). I will chat to a bloke nextdoor from my Office on Monday, and ask him to put some decent primer on, something made for plastics. I will go from there then. and and and So, hopefully next weekend I will be in a position to shoot some color Let me know what you all think - this is very rough still, and need a few hours more before primer will go on.

PM sent to the affrimative. RPM-only is a trial-limitation. Br, Phillip

Soz Seventytwo, I had a good chuckle at your expense on this retort by Rootster

Head on over to Fordmods.com and see Lukeyson's thread in the ECU section - he has done a lot of work on these ICC's - start on the last page and work your way towards the first - the answer is in there.

I can take pictures, and post them here To much work to do again, soz mate. Once you have the pics, it's pretty clear what to do.....

Hello again, For my Aussie mates, I have made a custom aluminium frame (see few posts back) for the NEC LCD panel, and mounted it on these 4 holes depicted below - I know a lot of guys take the easy way out when mounting LCDs, but I cannot stand a rattly, vibrating, and worse, something that dislodges itself after a few couple k's. So, it has to be very reliable - and in my case, the mounting method actually enhances/strengthens the overall fascia bezel, while being very clean at the back. If you want more detailed pics of the frame/mounting brackets of the LCD, I will post them.

Hello Everyone, Ok, finally fitted the new Zotac-based setup to the UTE, and working very well - the new CF30 is definately my cup of tea, and I need now is the TPMS plugin - the guys are working on it, so it should be ready pretty soon. Anyway, with that said, I'm still using the old little 7" Xenarc 700TSV - while it serves it's purpose, and only just so, due to glare/bad daylight readability, it is time to fit my much nicer 8.4" NEC transflective panel. Please browse a few pages back to see how I constructed a fully functional TFT monitor from bits and pieces purchased off online stores. Even so, this screen still works out pretty much $550+ USD, but, well worth it - it's the right size for me, at 8.4" and standard ratio (4:3), and of very good industrial quality. Well, herewith a few pics to show what I did during the last 2 days - progress is slow, but I'm expecting to have this done in the next few weeks, as I can hardly wait to get this in the UTE. With the Zotac capable (and CF30 supporting multiple displays), I will retain the Xenarc to display my OBD-II data via embedded CF-application on it, while the NEC will be my main CF display, housed in the fascia. So, here we go: Showing the Ford ICC fascia, recently cut to proper size to make way for the 8.4" LCD: Another angle: And one showing the rear: A few pics showing me making the framework from balsa wood - please note that the LCD will be well recessed, as I like it this way, and will further prevent direct sunlight from hitting it: another one: and another angle: Pardon all the pics, but this will give my fellow Ford BA/BF/Territory mates an idea what to expect should they wish to do something similar. A couple shots from the rear: and and herewith 2 pics showing the LCD fitted - please note these shots are in macro-mode, with the camera barely 30cm away, and flash on - it's a Fujifilm 5500, so pretty strong flash - and the screen handles it very well I will be doing more work on this over the next few weeks - I got my hands on some Fleece, resin and hardener, and a few cans of undercoat to prep. Before you guys ask about why fleece/balsa/et al, this fascia is made from PPO/PPE, which doesn't handle any other method than superglue and balsa wood - I've studied this case, and this is the best (and possibly only) solution. I will possibly get Nexson's input too, as he's the resident Mp3Car Guru where it comes to this sort of fabrication, and might be very helpful with info/tips/tricks. Will keep you guys posted. edit: As an added bonus, I will use the orginal buttons that controlled the Ford Radio/CD-player to now do the LCD functions, like adjustments, power, etc....I needed 8, but these 6 will do the main functions, I can leave brightness control away, as I tend to set it once, and never touch it again. There is a little PCB with buttons mounted proper, I will connect this to the OSD control board connected to the Digitalview ALR-1400 controller Nice......I like.

I actually have another one too, a pretty expensive Mongoose FEPS(that can program too)which is a J2534 device, and run at our native 500kbit CAN bus speeds. I've purchased DashCommand from Palmerperformance, and embedded this in CF30 - this way I can nicely display Skyline GTR-type gauges...but, the one I linked to should work with the $49 DashCommand too See attachment for one of the displays I'm using from time to time - pretty neat actually.

Heya Mate, I should have some hardcopies, as I sold the car in about 1999 - digi-cams weren't that available in the good ol' Republic then. I will dig them up, and scan a few of the engine-build I should have scattered around. Will be after New Year's though, but I will post a few, no worries.

Mmm...I've got the F6 Tornado with 370+ on the rears, and it ain't to bad. Highway, with cruisecontrol active, it will be around 8.4l/100km at 100kph, and around 8.7 at 110kph. Around town, scary.

Even though Nitrous is the best "supercharger" out there, by it having approximately 36% O2 by volume vs roughly 21% for turbos and blowers, it is not such a good plan to introduce this to your street-driven car - nitrous hit pretty much instantaneously, and will put a tremendous amount of load in a very short time on your rotating assembly. Not a good thing, in particular for this inline 6 engine. Harmonics will most likely kill it short before long. Rather get boost up higher, a fair whack softer and safer on the engine.

Of course it's possible the engine detonated itself to death, breaking a conrod with the result mentioned in your first post. So, what would cause it - well running under boost, and a bad batch of fuel...and krrrr.....there she goes. Did you hear a loud bang and then silence?

Nope, what I'm saying is a 300kw turbo'ed car, say 4L 6 with turbo at roughly 10psi boost will be producing more AVERAGE torque than a naturally aspirated engine of 6L capacity, producing 300kw. "Quicker" has nothing to do with it, as I've seen 250rwkw cars kill 330rwkw cars down the old paddock - if you talk about 1/4 time, as it's all in the launch. The 330rwkw car of course will have a higher ET (if the dyno was of course accurate)

Guys guys guys - this has nothing to do with Ford or Holden, and everything with the average torque of a blown 4L 6, vs a naturally aspirated V8. Remember, at 14psi boost, our lovely little 4L will actually be an 8L naturally aspirated's equivalent wrt torque. Boy oh boy, I don't want to be anywhere near the steering wheel of my 370rwkw F6 Tornado if those V8 boys start adding turbos or a nice Whipple blower or something such. And that goes for both camp red and blue. If they have a 6l V8, all they need to trample us would be around 8-10 psi boost, if we were running approximately 16 psi - which should get us close to my 370rwkw. By that time they will be sitting at a similar HP number, with a significant fatter torque curve, and the best part, distributed over a much wider RPM band - making for much more reliable engine than our little 6L shakers. Hehe. Have fun, and please don't flame me. My plaything in RSA was a very neat Ford Sierra with 357cid Nascar Winston Cup block, running 2x Turbonetics T60's, billet (internal balanced) rotating assembly, H-beam rods, JE Pistons, mechanical roller (turbogrind) cam et al. Was running 16psi boost for 750 flywheel HP, and it would have killed my poor UTE in all departments. Except fuel consumption of course :( Still wasn't bad for making use of a Victor Jr intake, modified to accept 16 injectors (staged for better atomisation), and a 4-barrel throttle body. So, let's not go knocking the V8 boys, you're comparing apples to pears. A golden rule-of-thumb: An equivalent output engine of a specific capacity, one turboe'ed, the other naturally aspirated - the average power output of the turbo'ed one will be much higher/fatter et al - whichever way we see it. Have a good one - and remember, I'm the proud owner of a very quick F6 - who also realises it's inherent limitations.

Here ya go: OBDPros Get the 90deg cable too.

Here you are: PPACarAudio - Australia

Imho it's not really worth the time and effort to use the CGA converters - been there, done that - and the end-result was less than satisfactory. It may work if you spent a princely sum on some exxie CGA converters, ie top-class ones, but, avoid the $150-$200 ones, not worth it. Then rather get an Arcade VGA and a Dual Atom Zotac board - might cost slightly more at the end of the day, but a much better result Keep us posted anyway, something different is always good! Good luck with your endeavours....

Ah, who's rego is Dudz 33? "Met" you on the on-ramp getting onto Eastern Freeway towards Blackburn Rd this arvo - yeah, it was me with the Lightning Strike F6 behind you. Your V8 sounds awesome, to be honest

Sound nice, keep us posted - only prob I have with phat cams are the horrendous fuel consumption. But, if not a daily driver, stacks of fun! Enjoy

Mmm...in the end, if a Expensive Daewoo fanboy has a better car, he can give me the stick The problem I have is that there are just a few guys out there that will have the better car (talking about the same class/level -> not your richkids with Lambos/Ferraris etc), but invariably you find everyone, even the guys with souped-up wheelbarrows, jumps on the bandwagon just to say something. Something akin to someone jumping in the fire, and eveyone follows. It might be good advice that if we can't say something constructive, maybe we should just learn to keep quiet. Thanx for the heads-up that the OP is not the owner of the car - my mistake.

I agree with this to a point - as I have mentioned several times in the past, please give us the "pay-a-little-extra" option to have at least the IRS in a FPV UTE. I got mine purely for recreational driving, and am/was more than willing to pay for an IRS option in this otherwise very nice UTE. I didn't get a FPV, and mod it to 370rwkw just to go and haul concrete! No way, sir - I would take the increased high-speed capabilities over better loading capabilities any day - but, that is applicable in my case - with saying that, I do fully realize the value of a live-axle for heavy towing/loading. Just give us the option for those few that wants/needs IRS for our application

Mmm...comments like this makes me wonder :( It seems one thing people keeps on forgetting is that our-oh-so-popular 6 turbos can't rev worth a damn - they are shakers, and yes, turn up the boost, you are still limited by the "narrow" rpm band of these engines - we all take them out (on a private stretch of bitumen) for a quick squirt every so often, and think these engines are God's gift to the internal combustion engine - well, I would luv to see how these wonderful 6'es, turning out 350+rwkw, holds up to that sh*tbox Chevy in the first post, making 350+ rwkw, turbocharded. It won't, as the V8 engine (and read here V8, not brandname) have a much better inherent balancing, with much lower amplitude harmonics trying to shake the poor thing to bits. You can spread the torque over a much larger rpm-band, leading to all sorts of wonderful positive side-effects. So, in my opinion, he's doing a good thing, forgetting the badge for a moment, but looking at what he's replacing what with. As long as he does a proper job on the engine internals, and put a little hairdryer, maybe a T60 Turbonetics or something on it, boosting 14-18psi, all our wonderful 6'es can go to bed. For you that don't know, I have a Falcon MkII company car, and a 370rwkw F6 BF UTE - my last 6 cars were Fords - only difference is, I can appreciate the fact that any one of the relatively current brand of V8's is a much better baseline to start from than our inline 6. So, if you have a issue with a Chevy in a Ford body, that's all cool, but the twaddle about our 6'es being so much better is just twaddle - we don't know what is planned for that engine, what the end-result will be like - to your shock and horror, he may put scat rods and billet crank in it, with enough artificial respiration he might just need an inline 6 to act as a fuel pump Wonder how far in his wake he will leave some of us? Anyway, he's attempting something different, doing it himself, and not riding on the back of someone else's glory - afterall, most of us here with very powerful inline 6 turboed cars have money, that's why where we are where we are, a few out there (and posters in this thread) would actually have done the effort and gone the dyi route. Nope, I didn't, I took the lazy-way-out, and admittedly so, but, that doesn't give me the right to jump down the character of some other bloke who wants to try something different. There's nothing wrong with giving critisism, and stating whether you like or dislike an effort, but making statements like the above is pretty low-key/downright distasteful. Somedays it's as bad here as over at LS1, shame on some of you. And yes, if you feel you have a need to publicly flame me for saying this, rather send me a PM and I will forward you my mobile# so we can talk it out. I'm no keyboard hero, but I will gladly back my comments. At the end of the day, it's really silly being a fanboy, with nothing but money. I'm not referring to anyone on here, just an observation. Have a good day, guys, and let's for once look past the brand and appreciate the efforts. @ the OP: I commend you for having the balls to tackle a project like this, good luck with it, and keep me posted - would like to see the end result.

Now, to me, this must be one of the most sexy girls ever - maybe I'm a little conservative, but damn, she is very, very cute :flowers:

Rofl @ Smicky. My Wife's funny idea to nick me MrBean many years ago. I am the polar opposite of the real MrBean though, hehe.