MrBean

@Crans: a Writeup will be appreciated. I have a F6 Tornado, and are busy assembling a carputer for it. Using Asus P5V-VM motherboard, with Silverstone LC19 case. Ordered 8" LCD from ebay, hopefully it will be a decent unit. My UTE has prestige sound, will it support the color lcd, or do I nee to get different premium sound icc? I am quite new to modern Ozzie Fords, so bear with me. Best regards, MrBean.

@Crans: a Writeup will be appreciated. I have a F6 Tornado, and are busy assembling a carputer for it. Using Asus P5V-VM motherboard, with Silverstone LC19 case. Ordered 8" LCD from ebay, hopefully it will be a decent unit. My UTE has prestige sound, will it support the color lcd, or do I nee to get different premium sound icc? I am quite new to modern Ozzie Fords, so bear with me. Best regards, MrBean.

Lysholm/Roots etc are all positive displacements pumps. Turbos/Vortech/Powerdyne Superchargers are all centrifugal pumps. Lysholm Screw Compressors are more efficient than a Roots blower, but, due to the design of the screws, are much more expensive to manufacture, and not really feasible on production cars. Turbos are more efficient than both types of positive displacement pumps, typically having an adiabatic efficiency of around 68% - in properly sized applications. Positive displacement pumps are just that - they move large volumes of air, compression happens because it moves more air volume than your engine can use - so building a positive pressure. Centrifugal superchargers use a process, whereby high-velocity air is slowed down via a diffuser, converting this into pressure (and heat) energy. Be it known that a turbo is in reality a supercharger albeit a centrifugal one. Enjoy. MrBean.

Mmm....it is actually when CO2 is being stored under very high press as a liquid, and it escapes, it changes phase from liquid to a gas - this phase change needs a lot of energy, and it "draws" it from the surrounding environment. But your idea is more or less accurate

Hello Guys, Quick question here - will the BA FPV-P (290 Boss) accept std car independant rear suspension? Are there mounting points etc, I need to do this for my UTE, but haven't received it yet to check for myself - will be more of a street/top-end racer than drag vehicle... Sorry for off-topic

Ok, now to sort out Insurance - everything else sorted, but tomorrow I am off to Perth, so it's gotta wait till early next week :( Jeeshhh...terrible to know the UTE is yours, yet not...hehe Well, I am going to enjoy it that much more then. Will post some pics as soon as I have my hands on it.

Hi Kimberley, Mmm - hope you don't mind it being a V8, as I signed for a Boss 290 on Saturday - planning on either Turbo or Vortech action anyway Should be interesting none the less..... Thanks for the interest.....

@ 6SpeedXR8: Hmmm.....I took a FPV-P Boss 290 UTE for a testdrive on Saturday, and decided to buy it-will get it within next few days after roadworthy etc..... My point is the same vibration at 100-130, max I took it to, and it was a distinct vibration in the gearstick - not g/box related, coming from the rear. What you are decribing sounds exactly like it.....I will ask Etheridge Ford to put it on the Hoist, and have a peek there myself before I take delivery..... Thanks for the advice....

Thanx for the linkie F6 UTE. Seems this is gonna be more fun I thought Go to buy a F6, and end up with a Boss 290. Note to self: visit psychiatrist asap.

Yip, good news indeed, as the T5's are not really strong boxes - especially the 5th gear when applying torque from a supercharged motor The T3650 quite a bit beafier in design. The moment I have my hands on this UTE it is going for some nice tuning, I see reference to some blower kit for it...Herrops I believe - you guys aware of it? Otherwise I might do a Vortech kit and boost around 5-7psi with larger injectors - rest should be good for now....

Hi Jetute, I only relocated here from South Africa 6 weeks ago, and are not familiar with current cars and hardware. My last Falcon back home was Fairmont AU and then AUII I would say the box would be the same, as both engines produce approx same torque UTE has a slight vibration at around 130-140, wonder if it is wheels? Not really on the steering wheel, more through gearlever.....not harsh, just a faint vibration..... Any ideas on that? It seems to be quite std thing on these 2003/2004 models, or am I wrong?

Hello Guys, Ok, just came back from Etheridge Ford in Vermont, 3133, and decided to buy this very new and clean 2004 FPV-Pursuit Registration: STC557 Prev Owner: George Wood Color: Purple, no stripes 18"Wheels 17k on the clock I took the vehicle for a testdrive, and it feels very good, accelleration is fine, kw's peaking around 5500 what I could feel. 5-spd manual box, and as I mentioned, extrmely clean - same reflected in the engine compartment. This vehicle have Ford FPV Calipers up front, slotted rotors, new tyres. I paid the deposit, and will collect next Saturday when I am back from Perth. Do you know history for this UTE? Feedback would be appreciated - was paying Aud $44k incl gst/roadworthy etc a good deal? Kind regards, MrBean

XXR6T is correct, inertia would cause the vanes to bend slightly backwards from their original curved posture, but, in the case of a bad backfire (exhaust impeller) they can even snap of at the root. This has been proven and tested quite many times. That is why a BOV is essential in this application, as the Turbo has clearly been sized to produce quite a bit more horses (boost) than what the stock engine parameters would indicate. I think the author of the specific turbo book is Hugh McInnes - nice illustrations about broken compressor impellers- both inlet and exhaust - check up on it, good material. @ XXXR6T: Maybe my explanation went cockeye - but your turbo is still boosting at high levels the moment the butterfly closes - and this pressure needs to be dumped - the bov take care of this. Bad things do and can happen if your system sizing is done so that your impeller-sizing and A/R ratios are not limiting maximum boost - this is the times you need wastegates and bovs - agreed? In my reply I assumed single acting BOV venting to atmosphere, not one with return-line to turbo inlet.

Ermm...actually the oppsite - it would let some boost in At least under idle conditions, and until turbo starts to boost, manifold pressure is negative, or under a vacuum. Leaving it open will make manifold vacuum more positive, but still under a vacuum - eg below atmospheric pressure. When you leave that "hole" open to atmosphere, you are actually allowing slightly more air into the engine, allowing a little higher idle speed - once you plug the hole/connect the bov pipe, idling drops. The BOV will enhance life of Turbo, especially compressor impeller, by allowing air to escape intake when you do eg gear changes, and there is a sudden increase in rpm's, thus exhaust gas velocity/pressure and density, causing the turbo to immediately spin up, creating extra boost for a short period. If it is not allowed to vent to atmosphere, it might cause bending of compressor vanes (in severe cases though), and it might cause throttlebody butterfly/shaft to distort. This is for extreme pressures though, generally turbos are sized for an application with proper A/R ratios and impeller sizes to prevent massive overboost. Ever thought what might happen when you are fulll throttle, snap-change eg 3rd to 4th gear, turbo spools up to 120-150k rpm, and clutch/propshaft/diff should break? Goodbye turbo if you don't have a proper sized bov. And possibly you will need to replace throttlebody shaft - it might bend.....

rofl@axr-jet and loopism :flowers: just teasing Mates - unfortunately I have a too good sense of humor - me being a Dutchmen from deepest darkest Africa. Take me with a pinch of salt @ F6 UTE: What you're sayong is true, and with VCT you certainly won't need to degree cams, I was not aware that Edit would allow some adjustment/alteration of std cam "curve" In this case the factory PCM would do a better job than most aftermarket units. Do you know if the service port on these factory management systems on the Falcons have ODB-type interfaces? If so, I can build a nice ODB interface and play a little..... @ lawsy: Ta, I have been registered - actually a quick, painless process, indicative of Nizpro's level of Service - seems so certainly I'll have a peek at BCL's setup, and probably discuss a little with him regarding cams - I guess already the cam will allow for better exhaust duration and lift vs standard cam, to minimize restriction in this critical area, and an ideal ratio would be 75-80% of inlet volumes. In n/a cars this is never the case. I may look at getting rid of std exhaust manifold as well, and have a custom branch done - but this I will confirm with Simon/Nizpro. Wrt a 2nd hand XR6T - well, I have been at Ford this afternoon, testdriving one, 2003 model, 58k on the clock, body in excellent shape, clean car, they want $33k for it. I also had a look at a new F6 for $61k - is this a good price? I am seriously considering buying this over a 5-year period, with suitable deposit - no lease here, I like to own the vehicle. So yes, in the end, I will probably take the F6, and buy a spare motor to tweak to hell and back - I have a new Company car, so I can play with the UTE, which will be for my personal pleasure. Don't get the wrong impression guys, no sh*tloads of money here, just a few savings, and bloody hard work. But, I am appraoching the 40's, and would like to look back one day and say I have enjoyed life to it's fullest. I luv power, jeesh.....forgive me ....hehe

rofl @ turbotrana But, to be honest, I always like to over-engineer the bottom end, especially rods and mainbearing caps - that way you are quite safe when boosting..... That type of horses would be a waste, and I doubt a straigt 6 will survive the torsionals on the crank with those kinds of loads acting on it....I think it will snap. Under those loads it winds up and down like a corksrew..... V8's are much better for that application, but certainly the best is flat engines. But, nice to poke in here and chat with the guys, even if to discuss color-schemes - quite a few knowledgeable guys here....

Thanx Mate Good advice....

Thanx for the feedback Guys. @ F6 Rapid: Most likely Ford has produced a decent Turbo profile on the cam, so I might stick with that - but, at around 14-17psi boost I will need much better springs. I need to speak with Simon and see if I can buy "parts" of his kit only, eg intake plenum, manifold, and the machining and sonic testing - I will do my own cleanup of components/block etc, and assembly and torqueing of bolts. Does there exsist any adjustable cam sprockets for proper cam degreeing? Or will the std sprockets allow this already? That way I can use my clockguage/degreewheel to dial in Cams to blueprint specs. For me, a lot of fun/satisfaction comes from assembling myself - I luv it. @ fish 351: Thanx for the input, I have registered at Nizpro's site, so I can ask him a few questions directly. Awaiting registration email.... Anyone else?

Hello Zap, Thanx for the welcome, and feedback I have played a little, but was much more into 300kph+ streetracing than drags - all legal races, controlled by cops back home, something called top-end races - you have like 1-6-2km to do your thing in....exhilirating stuff. But - the reason I want a bullet bottom end, is if you want to up boost pressure, you can dial it without worrying about detonation/weak main-caps etc... So, even though I want 300-350rwkw, if needed, I want to have ability and surety I can up to around 450 without fear of breaking anything in the engine. We'll worry about tranny and diff later...hehe... Just want something wild on occasion, and sometimes, a need for a change of clean undies.... I will need to look around for a 2nd hand UTE in a good condition, with a late-model engine with more consistent cylinder walls. But, your feedback is valued, thanx again.

Hello Everyone, Ok, I finally relocated to Melbourne from South Africa, 1 month ago. Last time I played with turbo engines was back in 1999, having build a 351 Nascar Winston Cup-based 351 Windsor engine with twin Turbonetics turbos, making around 750HP and 1000nm torque at the flywheel. Used Haltech F9, dual injectors through Victor Junior manifold, Eagle H-Beam rods, JE forged pistons, billet crank. All this into Ford Sierra XR6 body - the 4-door of your 2-door XR4i if I am correct. Well, I am 39 now, and want to get into my hobby again - and in Oz it seems easy with all aftermarket goodies available. I need some pointers though: Where to find a relatively new UTE XR6 body, with wheels, suspension, basically everything except motor and box. I will mount Recaros, in-dash car-computer, based on Commell LV-677 motherboard, and dual-core Intel cpu. Engine wise: Possible bulletproof shortblock, with wide H-beam rods, something close to 8.3-8.8:1 CR, with proper dished Arias forged pistons. Decent valvesprings to handle around 0.48 (at .050" ) lift with around 10-14 psi boost behind them. Twin turbos, small enough to eliminate lag completely, feeding into a roughly 4-6L plenum chamber to act as a decent air reservoir for the engine (to avoid lag/surging) - would luv to keep stock long-runner manifold though, to keep excellent bottom-end torque characteristics of this engine. Custom stainless 409 branches to feed the turbos - and eliminate killer backpressure on exhaust valvetrain. Some decent turbo-grind camshafts - I would ultimately like around 300-350rwkw, nothing killer, just good enough to keep me smiling. Motor must be ultimately reliable, that''s why I don't want to boost it to death. I know with the yanks, generally their taxi cabs/police vehicles have stronger cranks/webbing around the bearings - is it the same with Aussie 6's? I hope so, this way I can rather get one of these "Seasoned"engine blocks with around 50-80k on the clock, and have it machined to accept new pistons, blueprint setup etc. Some feedback would be appreciated, I would worry about management later, probably aftermarket to enable dual fuel injectors, activate 2nd set under certain amount of boost pressure - that way I won't sacrifice excellent atomization characteristics of stockies, thus having best of both worlds - if it is practical to fit 2nd set into std intake runners. Forgive the long post, I am really looking for some experienced feedback - it would be appreciated. I am in Melbourne, and will have a chat to Simon at Nizpro as well, but generally priorities are now to obtain decent UTE shell as requested, and maybe engine which can be used as a donor for shortblock rebuild. Anyone?

Oil in the inlet track will lead to detonation, by lowering the octane rating of your fuel/intake charge. If present in sufficient quantities, that is - and depending on boost-levels/octane rating of fuel, it may occur at even factory boost if inferior fuel is used.

My 1st post here - hello I know Pete Jackson made a good set of geardrives for 350 Chevies, 351 Fords. They are superior to chaindrives in the sense they don't stretch, resulting in bad cam-timing. Nowadays true roller-chains are getting close to the same reliability as gear drives. Geardrives will have an advantage where very aggressive cams are used, with hefty valvesprings , especially in turbocharged engines where you are running huge 2.02"Intakes, and high bosst-pressures. You will need good quality dual-or triple springs, which will wear out a chain in relatively short time, but geardrives will last a lot longer. They are typically more noisier though, quite ok for the dragstrip, but sh*tty when you go on a 700km trip Anyway same as Zap F6's reply.