benjam

Hey jas98, I had a similar issue about 18 months ago with idle revving up and then down to normal when putting the clutch in before stopping. You did say you have no intake leaks, but it was the intake manifold gasket for me. I could also hear a slight air sucking noise towards the front passenger side of the engine compared to other areas along the manifold. The ECU controls the idle and was compenstatng for the extra air when the engine speed wound down to idle. It was happening both when engine was just a bit warmed up or after a normal drive too. I was able to change the gasket myself (long but not overly difficult) and also gave the throttle body and plenum a good clean. All good immediately afterwards. I had already had the spark plugs and coils changed for a different issue (lack of spark at WOT) about 6 months before, so it wasn't that causing the idle issue. Cheers, Ben.

Yep currently having the same problem, though at first it would make some boost, slowly up to 6psi at max rpm. Car is tuned to 12psi with standard actuator. I checked manifold bolts, all hoses and clamps and even replaced the wastegate control solenoid. Then by coincidence the dump pipe to turbo bolts came loose so tightened them. Now no boost at all. I had my local Ford service take a look because I spotted a turbo housing bolt loose on the exhaust side, which I couldn't get to. They tightend that and also found a turbo mounting bolt missing. But still no boost, so they took the dump pipe off and found the wastegate stuck open. Will be taking somewhere else to fix that as all they could offer is send the turbo away for a rebuild. So a few issues all at once, but main one is the wastegate stuck open for me. Cheers. Ben

Depends what you want to do with your car. Under half a tank doing circuit racing you'd be running the risk of fuel starvation, which can lean out your air fuel ratio briefly and lead to detonation. Even more serious drag racing or spirited twisty driving around 1/4 of a tank could cause probs. Inside the fuel tank, the fuel gets pushed to one side, away from the pickup due to the G forces. For me I have one just for track days as otherwise I don't push my car hard enough to worry. It means I don't have to refuel after only a couple of ciruit runs. After experiencing the difference I can say it definitely works a treat. Cheers. Ben

Here you go, some info I saved a while ago before I bought one myself. Cheers. "The correct T-Piece to use is a VDO 230.032. The standard thread in the oil sender is 1/4 NPT. (the autometer is 1/8 NPT)." The above t-piece will make it look the opposite of the pic Dwayne posted, ie Autometer sender on top (1/8 fitting) and original on the end (1/4 fitting). Ben

Geez a whole year went by huh? I bought the fan and put together the electronics, though I found the circuit not as reliable as I thought it would be when bench testing it. Seemed to work better when triggered on rising voltage, however for my signal wire, I want it triggered on falling voltage (rising temp). Still a job to do though. Will also not bother about the shroud as there's not enough space for it with larger intercooler plumbing in the way. I've seen on ebay a few times, fans selling with shrouds built in, which may be worth investigating for anyone thinking of doing this too. Cheers. Ben

Yeah true enough, whether suspension in a vehicle is rasied or lowered, as long as it's done safetly and doesn't adversly affect the normal road handling, that's the main point. I'm sure many 4WD owners will want to go higher than 50mm and if so they only can get conditional registration with restricted road access, which I'm sure will be a pain. I was thinking of things approaching monster truck status. Ben

Ooops instead of 3/4, I meant 3/4's of half if you know what I mean, so equally between 1/4 and half. Drove to work (13kms) this morning and temps were back to normal again between 1/4 and half. After 7kms water temp reached this normal level after lesuirely driving. Ben

I pulled my original 92deg thermostat out of my T a while ago and it's the same with the 2nd hole etc too. I replaced it with a highflow 82deg one, which only has 1 smaller hole with the float. Since I changed it, I was actually seeing slightly higher coolant temps on the ford gauge, just below half instead of 3/4. So this weekend I've drilled a couple of holes to see if that brings the temp down. The coolant mix make a difference too, and I dilluted it with distilled water as I think I put too much concentrate in when I last changed. I'm more interested in making things cooler, more so with oil temp, and water temp will affect that. Obviously I don't want it too cool, so I'll see how it goes for now. Ben

The VSI says you can be defected basically for going outside the manufacturer's vehicle specs, so more trouble if you need to clear it. The rule is good overall for all those sky high 4WDs up in the clouds and also people who cut their springs, both stupid and dangerous IMO. Ben

Hey all, I just read the brand new VSI50 for this on the RTA website. Download and have a look... http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow...7-july-2009.pdf At the bottom is says... Date of commencement This VSI applies to vehicles modified or presented to an AUVIS (going for a blue slip) after 31 July 2009. I'm sure there will be the usual sh*tfights with enthusiastc police and probably insurance companies too. Though at least I have receipts of when all my work was done. Ben

I had an old Alfa with the battery in the boot from factory and the earth was wired just next to the battery. Your battery earth should be as short as practically possible since any cable length will have some inherrent resistance. Having more resistance in the earth cable, will therefore have a higher voltage drop across it and rob power from the rest of your car, put simply. An earth problem becomes more so also with high amp accessories like extra lights and big stereos. Make sure the earth cable is not some thin crappy cable either. :-) Ben

Hey you may find this useful though I haven't tried it myself. Apparantly you can adjust the speedo in a special calibration mode via the dash! It would be better to just go for a tyre size and profile that has the same overall diameter as what is standard. Cheers. Ben. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...ic=1335&hl=

Hey thorxr6t, Great to see mate, I fell off the fence in similar fashion when I bought my Ba Mk1 XR6T which I still have. Just wait until you start to mod! And you will haha. Though I've got a mate with a BMW 135i, very nice machine that, can't fault it. But for the bucks, Ford still make a top factory performance package and there's so much in the way of after market mods and advice such as through this site. Enjoy! Cheers. Ben

Hey guys, Check out my post in the thread below. XRSics, sounds like your left side pad has more initial tension, so when you pull the lever up, it is the first side to bite. Was the same case with me too and led to swooshing noise as described by many. http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/index.ph...mp;hl=handbrake Can still download a Ford TSB showing some pics and instructions. It's a crappy design, but by playing around adjusting everything myself, I've been able to live without the swoosh noise for many many months now. :-) Pulling up your handbrake anytime while moving just ruins it. Those of you technically minded, just take one of the rear wheels and hubs off and look how it works. You can adjust the initial tension of each drum pad. I take the circular pad off and just turn the adjustment wheel at the bottom to the minimum ie least tension setting. Also by bending the retaining spring to give more tension, this stops the pad moving around within the drum which is main cause of swoosh IMO. the pad is hugged against the black metal backing plate. Should use hi temp grease also on contact points between side of pad and backing plate. If your handbrake lever is up real high, attend to this first by getting under the car saftely and tightening the cable at the Y split point. It's up against the body just in front of the rear axle from memory, slightly on driver's side. Cheers. Ben

Mate I'd get it in writing from the boss of that place what has happened and perhaps a statement saying they will warrant any fuel system/engine related problems for a fixed period. You don't want to find out in a couple of years time it caused a problem. I don't know myself if E10 can cause damage to a T, but I'm pretty sure it is not listed as a recommended fuel to use in the owners manual. Also ring 13FORD and ask them if E10 is usable in the T. If they say do not use it, then definitely get the letter from the boss. If the guy baulks then just do an online complaint to Fair Trading, works wonders believe me. Ben